You will just have to hunt around, there is no telling, for example, the RCA CTC-16s had a bad habit with faulty R48 (150K) R50 (180K), and a few others, my rca 630ts clone had all bad 39 ohm cathode resistors in the IF, same with the Stromberg Carlson TV I did, 47 ohm as did the Arvin, which also had 47 ohm on the cathodes.
It seemed more than coincidence that they had bad resistors in the same places more or less.

Well I went over all resistors on all 3 IF tubes and the only one on 2 was a 1.6k that measured 2k that’s it. Is it likely that a disc to ground may be bad ? I still have a hunch that L6 may have been touched it looks like it was moved looking in the adjustment hole. Do you know how to check a germanium diode get a reading on ohms both ways where one side flashes numbers back and forth. And so again if there is sound then the video rides along so I think I could exclude the tuner.

there is a diode check feature on your meter.
http://www.instrumart.com/assets/uei...nix-manual.pdf
you have to make sure it is diode mode, not sure what button to press but when in the right mode, a diode symbol should be seen on the display.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rj9WpoaX2Gk
how the test is done

there should be easy access via pins 2 and 4 at L6.
diode mode is the only way to really test it.

resistance checks wont tell you anything, in diode check mode, one way should be about .5xx on the meter ( give or take) and the other much higher, as seen in that video.

That diode test is for silicon diodes the one in the set is a germanium diode much different in diode mode the germanium diode does nothing no reading either way but different reading in resistance mode they are very sensitive and I have these diodes and compared mine with the one in the set and I have my doubts that it’s bad. I just thought there was a special way to check.

SI/GER all test the same way, it's selenium ones that you can not use the DVM diode check on.
you should be seeing a voltage difference when you change the leads back and forth.

I don’t see anything in diode mode with a germanium diode that’s why I thought there’s another way to test them.

that can only mean the diode under test is bad, or the meter cant test it, which is unlikely.

If you have a replacement already then try the meter on it, if it does not show a reading, it A) not in the right mode, or B) not able to test diodes for some reason.

they test the same way
https://www.petervis.com/Radios/maki...iode-test.html

just give dif readings.

That is odd I have checked many diodes but not germanium diodes so I don’t know why it won’t check and that article I did see it briefly. I did try it on the diodes I have same result.

Ok I figured it out your right my meter does test them all I had to do was hit the select and it changed to volt.

Great! :D

chances are that the Detector is OK in the set.

what you may end up doing is NOT trusting the tube tester, and getting a whole NOS set of IF tubes, and perhaps Tuner tubes, but that's just a suggestion.

Well I hope the detector is good and I even thought of putting in the old tuner tubes which showed shorts to see what happens and I also tried different IF tubes but still the L6 like I said it looks like it was screwed in and out marks left in the plastic sleeve both top and bottom.

Let's hope that;s not the case, cause if any if them were changed, then the level of difficulty to align it is very VERY high, needing very special equipment and skills to get it right. sweep marker generator + oscilloscope and LOTS of time / experience.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHeWbyFMF8A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1h5zNFvn_U&t=212s

NOT easy

Oh I know I hope not as well.

As of now looks like the diode is infact good it tests just below 3 so that’s good. Now after finding no bad resistors in the 3 If tubes areas I have to figure where to go from here.

As mentioned before, it's best that you have a set of known good (NOS) IF tubes, 2, 6EH7s 1 6EJ7, and new tuner tubes.
And it looks like you have the coil/core type tuner vs the rotary switch type, these type have a bad habit of getting dirty contacts (black), making tuning impossible, the best way most have found to clean them was to remove the tuner cover, and clean them with a pencil eraser and solvent like isopropyl alcohol or the like, until the contacts are bright and shiny, making sure not to leave any bits of eraser behind.
If the tuner has not been cleaned already, there is a good chance that the contacts in there are all black and dirty and a source of trouble.