double check the work, that should not have happened R46/R38? check what came out vs what when in, something is not right.

I’m going to double check the resistors I put in. But now I can eliminate L 123 because using the subber I get the same result at the plug on the chassis or lifting the wire on L3 at pin 2 v1 so this leaves L4 or v1 tube socket or caps at v1 since v2 and beyond was good I can’t think of anything else in and around v1.

Here’s the interesting thing wire off L3 subber on pin 2 v1 get a lousy pic but if I put the subber on pin 7 I get a better pic I would think the better pic would have been on pin 2 and no more overheating L42 I get a better pic when the subber is on pin 3 v1

I set up video at test B to set the vertical and horizontal so I lowered the master G1 then as I raised G1 alittle again c91 blew up and shot a flame out of the side of the cap. Is this a bad 130pf cap or what the heck would do this. The cap was a 047 cap a 05 go in instead.

C91 is in the hv reg line, so I'm not sure what 130pf cap you mean cause there is none in the area.

IF the 6BK4A failed, it could shunt too much voltage to the cap and toast the cathode resistor and cap there, what kind of cap was it?

It may have just been bad/ weak, DO make sure that what ever you replace it with is rated at 1kv or more, and that all other parts in the area are OK and that V17 is not toast.

Remember, when you adjust G1, or brightness, the shunt regulator V17 works to keep the HV stable, so something weird happened here in the area.

The cap that shot flames out is a 047 630v and the 130pf 6kv is in the same area what came out is the same only 600v. Ok the 130pf is not in that area my mistake

to make it more robust, replace it with at least a 1kv cap, but the same .047 value.

This is what came out but I had put an 047 orange cap.

Well all I have is an orange cap.05 don’t have any .047 ceramic.

This set is nuts surprises everyday I turned the master G1 up alittle then I thought a cap melted down come to find out it wasn’t the caps there was a bright light and hissing kind of noise coming from the corner of where the flyback is yet I find nothing burned no smell when it was burning and if the G1 is up to high focus voltage drops off. Turned it back on and got hv nothing else at this point.

carbon tracking? solder peaks on the FBT connections?

Well yes I was thinking carbon tracking somewhere maybe on the 6bk4 or between pins because the arcing was at that end at the tube not at the flyback scary stuff coming out of no where.

the tubes can blow up, remember i had a NOS 6BK4C explode on me. http://suzaku.live-evil.org/1015220040.jpg

I wonder if your CRT is getting gassy. Does the neck glow vibrant purple or blue in the dark? When a CRT gets badly gassy it will loose the ability to display video, loose raster, lug down the focus and HV till the flyback screams...

Turning up the G2 is a bad. I have a Setchell Carlson monitor that had a focus problem where it was burning up the focus coil and couldn't achieve good focus or HV....Turns out some idiot had cranked the G2 on the CRT way beyond it's correct setting and the cathode emissions were overloading the focus and HV.... setting the screens to the minimum to achieve a dim horizontal line with vertical deflection disabled and brightness down fixed everything. G2 should always be at the minimum setting for the set to work.

It was the master G1 that I moved and the crt checks out good.

All voltages on v1 and v2 are spot on within 2-3 volts so with that is there anything that would interfere with video getting to the crt I guess what I mean is even though test point b gives video but from point b any possibilities. Let’s say the IF is ok and it’s not out of alignment from v3 and beyond but before test point b.

Do you have ANY signal generator that can cover 40-48 MHz? If so, you can
use that to at least measure reasonably well the IF response. You just need to
get bias boxes that can generate a couple of fixed AGC voltages in the proper
range. Then just scan the generator by hand looking at an (analog) voltmeter
on the detector output. Start at the last IF grid and work back.

I have aligned TV sets using this method which is slow, but works. Do note that
the shape of the response curve does change with AGC bias level, due to
change in plate impedance with current, even for pentodes.

Note that you can measure the frequency of the generator by measuring
the second harmonic with an FM tuner, at least above say. You could even use
the second harmonic of the oscillator of a SW radio!

Maybe this subber I have is not compatible with this set or maybe the subber is not working right it is old. Maybe this set needs its own tuner in the beginning I had video that looked like it had to be fine tuned so I took the tuner cover off to find channel 3 slug was bottomed out so I fixed that and got what I got but since then I get little to nothing from the tuner so there are resistors in the tuner that can go bad. I get little more from the subber but don’t know for sure if the subber is working right.

The subber is universal and will work well with any 45mhz IF setup, where resistors in the tuner can change, it is not very often that they drift so far as to make it not work, and it often causes more harm to try to go in and replace them over leaving them alone.

Some of of the resistors in the tuner in my FADA was more than 30% off but it still works.

Problem is I’m assuming that this subber is working properly for all I know this subber could have bad resistors among other things and who knows it my not be tuned for 45mhz due to age I really don’t know. But the sets tuner had worked a lot better but now it’s like it’s dead.

the subber is all solid state, it is very very unlikely that it is faulty, 95% chance of it being fine.

there is resistance checks for the tube sockets of the tuner listed in the SAMS you can try, and if chan 3 does not work, try 4.

I thought other then channel 3 and 2 was the next And the voltages are pretty much on the money both v1 and v2 and I believe I went over the resistance checks for all 3 tube sockets and they were good except for v1 pin 8 all the rest were good.

The subber I have says it works with 40mhz don’t know if that’s ok for this Motorola

There are 2 types of general IF strips in US televisions.

The older type found in many black and white sets 25.5hmz (20mhz shortened ) or 45.75 mhz (40mhz shortened )which came out when color sets hit , many BW sets were also upgraded to 40mhz as well.

Again the tuner subber is compatible with all US color sets, 45.75 mhz (40mhz) and BW sets with 45.75 mhz IF strips.

So I tried something I marked each turn and position as I tried on each coil v123 and what I found was I started at v3 and half turn in the video It had started to fade then back to original position then half turn out same results and I got the same result from the other 2 so if I had to guess I would say that they are where they should be. So as everyone states ceramic caps don’t go bad I believe they do although it maybe rare but since the subber is not getting nice video I have to wonder what else am I missing the voltages are really good at v1 and 2. With sound upon making these turns on the coils the sounds starts to fade as well so there all back where they were before I touched it. So now it’s going to take alot of coffee to think where to go now.

I think it’s very odd that the little video I get from v2 and the sense of having an antenna on with the tuner plug pulled from the chassis the IF is totally dead no video from v2. I can’t see what the tuner is doing for the IF at this point pin 3 of the tuner plug says .4v when I measured pin 3 it was .13v so maybe this tuner is creating big problems for the IF I have to look into anything at this point. The other pins have a ground and 130v 145v and filament for the light.

Unfortunately, the way the coils all interact with each other, trying to do it visually and not following the set procedure normally does not get any improvement.

Like I mentioned, it took me 3 tries ( and many hours) to correctly align my ARVIN 9219-cm-uhf BW TV, and yours is MUCH more complex.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXrOPvrDdzY

Well I don’t know why I lose video and any activity I have just by pulling the tuner plug out of the chassis and the rf plug is out already the tuner should have no change in the video with the subber being used if I plug the tuner back in I get activity

Take a look at the power plug for the tuner, namely pin 5, B+ source 2, this is sourced from 145v which also powers the V7 Sound Det, you have already seen how a faulty Sound Det can overload the 3rd IF and kill video, it is likely that this circuit is dependent on the tuner being connected for it to have the right load to have the correct voltage at the end of the string, w/o the tuner, the 130v goes too high and the Sound Det kills the 3rd IF, unhooking the tuner AGC line may also have an effect as well.

I can see how it would affect the sound which I’m not worried about sound and how is that it would kill the third IF it should just kill the audio. And there is supposed to be a .4v source coming from the tuner and it’s .13v that’s not right

.4v, normal operating conditions.

no video is not "normal operating conditions", so until there is normal operation of the RF-IF to video input, and the AGC feedback loop is normal, the .4v will always be abnormal.

The sound det is taken from the plate 3rd If, via C43, if V7 is not in the right state, it can clamp down on it.

Ok that does make sense because the sound as the tubes heat up would sometimes fade in and out alittle and be alittle static. The sound can be clear and loud but about 30 seconds after being on that’s when the sound gets funny. There is something coming down the IF strip being there is audio there

As electronic m had said if you have sound the video is with it so I guess what I’m saying is that could there be something in the sound that could knock out the video at the 3rd IF because test point b says all is ok from there but before that is v3 and sound.

It all has to do with response curves, it's all a delicate balance that has to factor in many things, including temperature, resistors, capacitors, coils, even tubes fit into this, which is why one never tries to align with old tubes, always new ones, and it's a long exhausting process, you change one thing one one end, it will change something on the other, so you keep going around and around, over and over until you get it as best as you can.
IF alignment is very frustrating.

And, as already said, the alignment shape changes with AGC (and hence signal) level.
It behooves us now, who use modulators and coax, to align so that its spot on
at the signal level we expect to actually have.

I disagree that its always hard. Its hard for sets that don't have shielded coils and
really good bypassing, like the Pilot 3" sets and the Hallicrafters 7" electrostatics, both of which seem to oscillate if I follow instructions.

Also as I've said before: I've seen exactly two tube TVs that got to me with even
mildly passable alignment: A TT5 and a TRK12.

A good .001 measures 1.00 when is a cap like this no longer usable. I would think that a measurement of a .001 being 1.55 and 1.44 wouldn’t be good to use especially in an IF area.

I have to wonder if there are chassis that are really sensitive to tubes particularly in the IF now I have a zenith in v1 and a sylvania in v2 I have 5 lindal 6eh7 tubes only one of which I had tried but found that the zenith actually gave more then the lindal so I’m not sure if I may have all lousy tubes wish I could rule it out and not just believe the tube tester. I know lindal tubes they say are not good but I didn’t try the other 4 of them either.

Are the all NOS tubes?

Yes not used

Just how clean does the pins have to be shiny which I have never had to do.