I wonder if collectors have simply overlooked this set when they have seen it? Couple of things to watch for...

1. The crt has the blueish color that is often observed on early color tubes... compare to the color of the 17" RCA shown to the right of the Westinghouse in the second post on this thread.

2. The set is quite large, and deep for the size of the picture. Not counting the bump in the back for the crt, it is an almost perfect 26" cube!

jr

I think the set is still somewhat unique looking (even if it were actually a b&w set). Seeing it in person might be different than seeing it in a photo. I believe a collector would see it, and then say, "Hmmm... there's something peculiar about this set," and then likely investigate a little closer... and once they realized what it actually is, they'd do that Fred G. Sanford routine of having "the big one"! :D

Hell, I had the big one and all I saw was the picture of it! :D

Fauxpaw: I was contacted by email by two of the collectors. They promised photos, but have yet to send them, despite several reminders. One claims to have a NIB 22 inch CBS CRT too. Until I see photos, I don't know if the sets actually exist.

One of the Westinghouse sets is owned by a very private collector who hasn't released any photos.

We have a CBS tube at the museum:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/color_crts.html

Yikes! so the CBS tube used a glass funnel with a metal flange and a panel with a metal flange, so that the flanges could be welded together after the shadow mask/ phosphor exposure deposition sequence was performed?

jr

Yep, kinda like the 15GP22 or 19VP22.

Jr, I have the Westinghouse service manual for the set (alas, no set to go with it!). I would be happy to make you a copy. Sen me an email with your address if you like.

jfolsomjr@cfl.rr.com

Slaps forehead...oops, I forgot those had glass funnels! but this welding must have been more difficult because of the shape ?

jr

That tube was won by a collector in or near Chicago. It has good emission on all three guns.

Pete

fauxpaw,

I did make a "fauxpaw" in the model # for the table model. It is 22T156. I have corrected my site. Both model #'s are listed in the ad. The console model #22K161 is pictured in a small insert in the corner. The ad is a large format two page spread. jr_tech says his set's mfg. date is 6-56. This ad is from Dec. 56. Perhaps Westinghouse changed the model #'s somewhere along the line. Although the SAMS photofact usually was released sometime after the receiver was made available to the public. So, it is a mystery. John Folsom, does your service manual give any model #'s for these 22" receivers?

-Steve D.

Again, Thanks for all the encouragement and comments.

I took only two pictures today, and did the "ramp-up" heater test that I described above... full 6.3V and everything looks normal. Then I slowly brought up the voltage to the TV (horiz output tube plate connections pulled since it is a series set).

Observations:
Tubes light up, horiz osc runs, vert osc runs and appears to sync when channel is selected, sound on ch 5 ok (we still have a low power VHF analog), no hum, and no purple glow in crt (although with the horiz output disconnected, B+ boost is not being generated).

Any recommendations for the next step?... Plug on the plate caps and let 'er rip? or more tests to be careful?

Side control panel.... picture1
Picture of the crt in Peter Kellers book*...Picture2
*see reference above... copied WITH permission of the author.

Wow... sounds like we will soon be witnessing the re-birth of an early Westinghouse rectangular color set!

Jr: Do you remember how long it's been since the last time this set was turned on?

...

Steve D and Jr Tech: My Westinghouse service manual gives no insights into model numbers, but does give a complete "service school". I recently brought a 15" unrestored Admiral color set up very slowly on a viriac and was able to get color bars on the screen. You might give this a try on the Westighouse, just to see if you can get any HV and raster. But I would advise you to go ahead and re-cap the set, including electrolytics. This will give you the maximum reliability.

These to items are posted on behalf of Steve Dichter, who has issues posting photos to the VK website.

VIsit his website at:

http://community-2.webtv.net/stevetek/StevesCT100/

:-)