That does have a nice appearance to it. I already use carbon composition resistors for all of my replacements, so I may try some paper restuffing on my CT-100. It has already had a bunch of its caps replaced in the past, but I kept all of the ones from the 8TS30 restoration so I could use some of those if needed.

I reciently started mixing some of the original wax in to container of hot glue to tint the glue a more original color. I then took pieces of the mix and melted them into the ends of the cap using a soldering iron. I used to take wax from other old caps and use it for restuffing, but once one has dismantled all spare junk caps for wax....cutting with hot glue seems logical (it also don't stink as much).

That was the only part I wasn't really happy with was the color of the glue at the ends. Any one ever tried a brown glue stick? A quick google search brought me this http://www.glu-stix.com/shop/page/pr...5b1ac34df.html. I have no concept of how much glue is in 5 pounds. Maybe we can do a group buy if it works.

Yes, I've been using brown and black glue sticks for a while with good results.

You can get them for a few bucks from various sellers on ebay.

I got back under the chassis tonight. I'm still taking my time and making each and every action I take as deliberate as I can. I found another capacitor that was replaced at some later time.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7143/6...a844816c27.jpg
You can see that there is a pretty large glob of solder on the connection point of that new cap. I've noticed shoddy work on the two obvious replacement parts in the set, both had way too much solder on the connections and you can clearly see that the repairman melted the insulation on a wire in the area when soldering a lead. You can see it on the left side of the picture below.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/6...ee195f0400.jpg
One of the advantages doing one capacitor at a time and shooting each one with lacquer is that I have lots of time to survey the set as I wait for the lacquer to dry. One thing I noticed on one of these "breaks" was that R187(according to the Riders schematic), the high voltage rectifier winding resistor, is going to need to be replaced.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7161/6...0b2ea95fd9.jpg
I'll file that in my noggin for later when I focus on resistors.
I still haven't been able to get out to my local antique electronic shop for a replacement multi-stage electrolytic cap to replace the one I snapped but I'm over half way finished with restuffing/replacing the paper caps. The top half of the set (as it sits on my bench) is now finished.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7169/6...077341140f.jpg

Almost done with the paper caps and wouldn't you know it I'm short one value :sigh:. Put the order in yesterday for the replacement. I'm hoping to have the paper caps finished by the end of the week and move on to electrolytics by the weekend.
I did run into one capacitor value that I couldn't find a direct replacement for, .0025mfd. I used one .0015mfd and one .001mfd in parallel.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/6...34b9918ac2.jpg
I used electrical tape to wrap each lead on each cap and then hot glued the two caps in place. Did any one else manage to find a direct replacement for these caps?

I thought I was the only one who restuffed caps with two in that fashion.

If the tube has a large enough diameter one can dispense with the electrical tape, and put the side of the case of one against the wire of the other.

I used either .0022 or .0027 (and .022 or 0.22 in comparable cases) for that value and did not have a problem in my RCA 8TS30.

My supplier of capacitors only has .002 which would put it right at the edge of 20% so I decided to go exact replacement value. I'm pretty sure .002 would have worked but so will .0025 :).

I finished under the chassis tonight. All of the paper and electrolytic capacitors are re-stuffed and re-installed.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7174/6...35be2f9314.jpg
I also replaced any bad, on the edge, and non RCA branded tubes with NOS RCA branded tubes (Four of the tubes are still not RCA branded, 1B3, 6SN7, 6BG6, and a 6H6, but I plan on finding RCA replacements for them).
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6...7f506f2156.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/6...cf3086c7f8.jpg
At the end of a long day I decided to turn the bench off and wait for another day to apply power for the first time.

She's lookin' mighty purrty.:yes:

As Someone who knows NOTHING about the Electrical stuff...You GO , Kid...Save another 621 TS....We'll congratulllate you when the stuff separates out...

Fired the set up for the first time and got a surprise. C128B (one of the main filter caps) blew up in a cloud of foul smelling smoke.
**THIS IS IMPORTANT TO ANY ONE WHO WILL READ THIS AND START A RESTORATION OF THEIR OWN**
The Rider schematic has a misprint. It incorrectly states the value of C128B.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7008/6...1e2c9a5be7.jpg
Why is this important? Because C128B is supposed to be rated at 450v not 150v and I'd like to save you the :mad: look your wife will give you when you smell up the house.
After replacing the offending capacitor I fired the set up again. No explosions :), however I didn't hear the horizontal oscillator so I investigated in that area. After swapping the 6SN7 out (it was one of the few non RCA branded NOS tubes) with another tube in the set I got the characteristic sound of the oscillator.
I took some voltage measurements and every thing was in the neighborhood so I installed the crt fired the set up and was greeted with.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/6...bc8e8f6d7c.jpg
No video or sound just yet but it seems like a good time to quite for the evening.

I would restore this thing to CURRENT standards...it's too valuable to restore, IMHO, to 1946 standards...

That is the money shot of any vintage set as it tells you the electronic unobtainium is in good shape.

Great job so far!

And don't worry your not the only one whom has popped a freshly installed lytic. Heck I've done it twice now. LOL