How did you make out on powering the set up?

The flyback has been cooked to open, see previous posts. Waiting for tubes for more testing.

John H.

Take the tire off and see if the break is near the surface, if it is you might be able to repair it. If not, like you said you can always do the tripler mod.

The HV rect plate lead broke off of a 1955 GE flyback because it was super stiff and I was not careful pulling it off, where the 1B3 was outside the fly "can".

Wax was already crumbling off the tire so I was able to make a connection just a few turns short, use an exacto knife and hyper-eutectic solder. Shmutz with black RTV when done. I wish you good luck.

I've got a Philco roundie too and believe they have the most comparable picture to more modern sets. Great find and I wished mine had the eye tube. The mIssing control door seems to be common on these sets too.

Brought this Philco white elephant in from van finally and fired up by degrees with variac. Like in another thread- http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=253593 - my focus coil is blackened and began to mildly smoke. BUT I ordered a new Workman replacement from Talon (edit- not Frontier Electronics)!

WHY do these burn up is what I want to know.....

Link to Frontier? My CTC16 smoked it's focus coil, and is now using my only replacement....I'd like to order one too.

Edit: My CTC16 set had a bad focus rectifier causing the focus coil to burn up, so I replaced it with a solid state one, but you never know...

Talon not Frontier sorry, and I seem to have purchased the only one but Playthings of the Past has a ctc15 one and a couple others.

http://www.talonix.com/shop/category.aspx?catid=34

Answering my own question- per a Philco repair manual focus coils on these models may have two "sharp" positions and using the wrong one may cause overheating.

And NOW Moyer Electronics is sending me a $50- NOS flyback!!!!! :banana: Already ordered a cheap tripler BUT this is much better.:yes:

Way to go! - :thmbsp:

The new focus coil is installed the Philco- no more burning there, old flyback still in. But though screen of the horz. output tube is fed the right voltage of B+ once the tube *warms up* it plummets to like 70 volts from 260 even though cap plate lead is off. Grid input voltage is a little off specs at -55 (listed as -60). Another mystery.

Grid emission? High power tubes are suspect.
Do you have a new Horizontal Output Tube?

check the HV setup pot. It bias the H Out tube, so it setting will directly effect the voltage reading.

I have the answer- massive arc-over of the high voltage insulating cup under the high voltage rectifier. Ordered a new one.