Does it have a label with an EIA number?

Yes. E.I.A. 274.

EIA 274 was RCA.
http://www.thespeakershop.com/speake.../eiacodes.html

I recall a set with the CA chassis showing up in HS shop that looked in perfect condition, raster nice and sharp without a cateract - those days long ago, a roundie was a special set even then.

BUT the red gun was nearly dead or maybe another student zapped it with the tester-rejuv before I got to it. It sat there after that, waiting for a donor CRT. It really seemed worth the trouble based on every other measure.

No surprise that your CRT is RCA Hi-lite, being a year earlier than a CB-21" chassis GE that I worked on.

CB-21 was GE's last 21" round set, it had the original CRT and it was pretty decent emission like yours seems to be, the CRT label was well-hidden too. :D

IMHO, your CA will make better color than that '66 model did due to fact RCA circuits were used in the CA, but GE went full-on porta-color with the CB.

There was a FY-chassis for 1964, like the CTC-15 but I would jump for a CTC11 clone, the CW. I never saw one of those either.:sigh:

The cushioning material that was between the CRT and the retention band has deteriorated, (looks to be some kind of thin cork almost ).
And I know that when I put the thing back in, that having metal on glass is just about as bad as “crossing the streams” in Ghostbusters, so I wonder what would be a good substance to replace it with? That is not too costly?

Does the cushion go all around, or only a few points?

Arts n crafts stores often cary thin coark and or felt.

BTW I assume you mean mounting band instead of tension band. A mounting band will have tension adjusting bolts that allow you to easily and safely loosen the band and slip it off.
A tension band is mechanically tensioned in a non-adjustable way.

Mounting bands often have padding, but tension bands usually don't have any padding....also tension bands don't come off unless cut off and tension band CRTs usually implode after the band is cut off.

the padding was only on a few points,
https://imgur.com/wD1EKaZ

i tried to get a good pic of it... but SOMEONE got in the way, and changed the focal point of the shot at the last moment.

I would have left it on. but as you can see, that little tab on the bottom would not let the safety glass come off.

I guess if the original is cork, then that's the best.

Someone had to go and claim it as their own...
https://i.imgur.com/5hIaaam.jpg

So far, I have not found any really bad resistors yet, although I have just barely started checking, a few were CLOSE to the upper 20% limit, but not by much, I'm still gonna replace the ones around the brightness & contrast controls with new 2% ones, as well as the ones near the 6GU7 Y-AMPS and H-blanker, and most likely the drop caps near those tubes, as they were REALLY cooked in my CTC-16, and acting up, NOT gonna touch the IF and colorburst/ demod as they seem to be OK.

So, perhaps the dim screen was caused by the weak thermistor, causing power to be shunted through the degaussing coil, though I did not see that in the screen at the time, I guess I will not know until I get the CRT back in and fire it up again.

And once I do that, I can go and check for weak parts in the sweep PCB, as well.

I've been trying for some time to see your photos on Imgur.com, but it doesn't work. The imgur.com page shows up for about five seconds, then disappears. I tried disabling tracking, still doesn't work.

not sure why, others can, that I have sent links to, and I can see them from other locations when not logged in. odd.

i even tried getting on this site anonymously from my cell, and I could still see them, not sure why you cant :o

Thought you might like to see what a NOS CTC16X board looks like before it gets cooked.