Glad you are getting it together! Your original FBT looked better than the one that is in my CTC-10C RCA right now. Thanks to the members here, I have a new replacement for my chassis. It sits here on my desk. It will be installed the next time I have an excuse to pull the chassis on my set. It's been running fairly well for about 10 years, now, being run weekly for several hours at a time.

I cant wait to see glorious NTSC color on your Philco!

Good luck with it

Bruce

That looks like an 18K resistor (first band brown, blends with the body color)

Is that a double-pole switch? You could be looking at a resistor that is part of another circuit that kills the video in service mode, not the vertical circuit that you posted. Look around the schematic for another service switch symbol.

Yes, that is a double-pole switch, thanks for the info I was looking at the part of the diagram. Everything seems to be ok with that, I thought I had bad resistor or that Id done something wrong.

Here is another picture of the advantages of rimbands on CRT's

The CRT was out of my Grundig TV & I replaced it with another one as this one was crook, So it was decided to dump the old one at the dump.

For good mesure the thing was dropped on it's neck & here is the end result, Glass everywhere as the thing colapsed on itself & I made one hell of a bang in the process.

Progress is on its way.
 

I got most of the Caps in today. Ive been replacing what I could. This set had three black beauties and was full of black plastic shell caps with "Philco" stamped on them. There all getting replaced. The Electrolytics will also be replaced in time. This set was pretty much a dead set when I brought it home. On top of the fried flyback I had no audio. The speaker made a sound that that sounded like a motor. Not the tube radio hum. Today, we have audio, loud and clear with no hum, no, motor sound. I hook the cable up to it and im getting stations. :yes: So the tuner and IF stages are working. However I did not proceed with puting the Horizontal Output tube back in to see what the picture would look like. I need a flyback cage cover for a "Philco 16M91 Chassis" do any of you guys have one. Don't think it would safe to run this set without one. Also, The tube should have a safety glass of some sort. The tube number was hand written on the back of the tube and it list 21FB22 A. A seperate rectangular tempered glass panel could easily be made to fit. Im not sure what might of been origonal to this set.

Here is where I am at so far, very little progress since October as Ive been busy with other tv projects. Fired this set up all the way on November 1st, There was no video but the color was there, picture was stable. Brightness control would have no effect. When powering off the set for a split second you would see a good NTSC picture. The "AGC Keying Sync Sep Noise Canceller" 6BH11 looked cooked. I tried another tube and got a decent picture. Powered the set up last week and here we go again with no video. Then I found the burst amp tube (6EW6) looked cooked. Replaced it with a known good 6EW6. The Video is back but the green is at full blast with retrace lines and the green screen control has no effect while blue and red seem to be uneffected. Im worried it might be the delay line but im not sure. CRT test ok. This weekend I hope to pull the chassis and take some measurements. So I'm up for sugestions.

I would look at all the tube sockets on the board especially where they solder to the traces, and the traces themselves. Heat from the tubes would cause the boards to get burnt and brittle. Also check where the circuit board is soldered to the chassis. These were sometimes used as ground points and a cold solder joint could cause all sorts of problems. You might try probing the board with an insulated tool to locate a bad joint.
Just a thought, hope it helps.

Bill R.

Maybe before you pull the chassis, take some voltage measurements at the crt socket. Avoid pin 9 (focus) becuse there is a lot of voltage there (6000v?). Note that the screens can be around 600-900v. Use appropriate caution. This could give us a lot better shot at guessing.

In some sets heater to cathode shorts in the crt can turn on one color full blast. I have never seen this in a ctc-15 like set, and I dont think it would happen because the cathodes are almost tied together. Does your CRT tester check for h-k shorts? If not, an easy way to test it would be to put a brightener on it if you have one in your junk. The most common kind of brightener for a roundie is also an isolation transformer that will "fix" h-k shorts by isolating the filament. There is a switch on top that allows you to run the filament on normal voltage (no boost). This is kind of a long shot anyway, because I think all 3 colors would be on full blast.

An open green drive control could do it I think, or an open green screen control. Unfortunately I dont have a schematic handy right now.

I'm pretty sure a delay line couldnt do this. You would either have no video, or severe ghosting I think. In any event delay lines can be replaced with a clipcord for a test, and the chroma and video will work, but not land on top of each other correctly.

Could one of the crt wires have broken loose from the chassis? This has hapenned to me more than once.

Good luck :)

John

I do know that banding increases the resistance to blows to the face, but I'm not sure if it has anything to do with containing the projectiles once it does implode. In other words, the banding creates a pre-load outward force on the face plate, so it can take a stronger blow before the net force is too strong inward and the face breaks.

Bruce,

Try checking the G-Y/Blanking tube. If it's not seated good and the heaters go out, the screen goes green with the retrace lines. I think it's a 6GU7.

Then Green problem turned out to be as charlie pointed out. The tube socket had broke loose from the board. Now we have a b/w picture with a rainbow color patern color killer has no effect, Color and tint has no effect. I will have a free day wednesday to get to play with this set some more.

sounds like the color sync is absent. Use a color bar generator for a good strong color signal. Adjust the 3.58 reactance coil and see if you can make the color bars stand up. Of the bars are getting wider and more upright, you are going in the right direction.

If you can make them stand straight up, but they won't stop moving your 3.58 crystal is good. its making the correct frequency, its just not locking in. Look around the bandpass amp and bust amp for changed resistor values and or open caps. ALso check that tube sockets have not come loose on the board in the color section.

If you cannot amke the bars stand up and the reactance coil has no effeect, there is improper frequency and most likely the 3.58 crystal is bad. I may have some old video speed servicing from the PF reporter I can scan for you if I can find it.

This seems more like AC interference causing the rainbow pattern. It is present with the color control turned down. Also brightness seems to go a little dark when on a strong station. AGC has little effect.

My parents had a 27 or 29" NEC TV from the late 80s until early this decade, and that set had a flat pane of safety glass over the front of the bezel covering the tube. So the glass face of the tube was set back from the safety glass by about an inch.