well for grins I picked up some new sweep circuit tubes, I will try them, and then proceed from there. IIRC all the resistance checks in the sweep circuits were GTG based on the sams. freaking HOT was an expensive bugger.

Yeah, 6JE6's and and similar run pretty high. You really wanna treat that baby with kindness! :yes:

ok replaced same issue. so I guess its time I broke down and

1) double check the caps in the sweep circuit, starting with the cat bypass on the horz osc (30uf part of the can cap)

2) check the resistors again (I think I did this based on the sams pin resistance readings already)

3) go thru the full setup routine of the Horz and HV per the service manual
(check HOT current, check HV)

4) get the scope out and look at the waveform on the osc, maybe trace from the plate of the horz to the grid of the HOT to see if any oddness takes place.

I realize I need to get the linearity done 1st before any more messing about with the purity/convergence.

prob should check voltages while I am at it in the sweep circuits.

would a low HV like 21k vs 25k cause horz lineairiy issues?

I was getting ready to set up my horz eff and HV but before pulling the chassis to disconnect the cathode shunts and attach the ma meter I took a reading with the HV prob on the anode, 21k not 25k...

I will also check the horz osc cathod bypass cap, jic its weak and the horz osc is being effected by that.

I think 21k is alright as long as your efficency is low.

well I installed a top side fuse holder right by the HOT, I have a 250ma fuse ready for it. I went ahead and added a 1uf non polar cap across the fuse holder so I can just pop the fuse and attach my meter.

I put the test leads on the 1k resistro on the HV regulater, left them hanging out the back. I actually had just about finished an intall of a term strip right next to the fuse, it was test points for that same resistor, then had a moment of clarity and realized that would put a 390+ term exposed at the back of the chassis :nono:
so I undid that and will live with having to pull the chassis to take the voltage drop reading. After pulling that bone head idea I decided to take a break and go do some DXing on my new Zenith TO.

I will do the current and voltage checks tomorrow when my head is clear.

adj a few degrees the HV adj up to about 23.5 now. HOT current 189, HV reg V drop on 1k resistor 1.2v (shoulda checked the res value 1st).

need to check all the B+ values next.

got the fast acting .2 amp fuse ready to go, more horz sweep checking tomorrow to try and figure the horz linearity issues. Overall looking very very good. Will begin full house recap of all cans soon, will of course recheck the HOT after that.

pic of the hot fuse location. quick easy to check the HOT current just pull the fuse and take a reading, sorry for the blur.

No holes drilled easy to undo if for some reason a future restorer does not like it.

Is the picture not filling the screen horizontally. It looks like it is in the pictures. If not try adjusting the horiz centering control. The low HV will not cause a horiz lin problem, but a lack of horizontal scan will cause a low HV. 23.5KV may be ok. It should be measured with a dark screen.

Bill

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No problem with the pic filling the screen, just horz lineairity (circle is compressed on the right side, elongated on the right.

more adjustments more screen shots...

Seems to have ever so slight of a ghost, I wonder if that is some kind of AGC issue, its more noticable on strong high contrast signals. you can see in on the lettering and on the bright shot of the lady (dark hair).

here are some ideas for the cabinet design,

4 side ply box with some oak veneers.

simple splayed legs with a front and rear stretcher, set in a bit, all splays about 15 degrees, all exposed edged rounded over. legs from hardwood, all finished with tung oil.

I will do some full size mockups out out foam to see how the legs work out.

Lacking a table saw will mean some creative jigging for my circlular saw, but the veneers should cover any minor mistakes.

I would not mind getting a router to do the bulk of the rounding over of the legs but then again I could prob do it with hand tools and patience.

pls excuse the rough drawing, just try for the right look.

The color in the second photo is so perfect!

John

Really looking good. Convergence, purity, white balance all look quite good now. I agree with John color on that second picture is great. If there is still some black at the bottom try adjusting the vert centering. You may have enough overscan at the top to move the picture down a bit. The slight ghost could be overloading of agc, it may also be open or shorted peaking coil in the video section.

Bill

adj the vert down a little, better will do some more later still have some to go but its getting late.

Just realized the darn speaker holes are not opened up on the speaker grille (it orig was mounted low, I thought the speaker on the bezel was open, its formed on the inside, there must be a machining process that opens the holes). I still like my design, guees I could go with a side firing speaker, or just do the way it was done, the speaker below the bezel. That would raise up the whole TV about 5". that would really mess up the look.

Gosh, that picture looks nice. You have brought that set a long way since the first photos you posted.

Your cabinet design looks like a lot of fun. Meanwhile, put on a favorite movie and enjoy.

Phil Nelson

Don't twiddle with it anymore. Looks great! :-)

Would it be possible to open the speaker holes. Tedious work, but.... Maybe a dremel tool to carefully cut the slits. Using one that had the speaker mounted there as a guide. The only ones open are the ones right in front of the speaker. You only need enough for the sound to get out.
Other thought would be to cut the speaker grill out and use a piece of grill cloth glued in place. Since you are building a custom cabinet anyway, that might be an option.

Just a thought.

Bill

I could prob open up a few with a dremal and a cut off wheel, of couse if I goofed it would be real ugly. I just wonder how the factory did it. You can see the mold area, even has the guide pins for the speaker.

Biggest problem would be getting good access. Guess the time to do it would coinside with the cataract removal when I have to unbolt the CRT anyway.

given the condition of the PVA I am hoping the cat would just pop off with minimal effort of heat gun or hot wire, which ever method I use.