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I have replaced the out of spec capacitors but get the same response. Something interesting; the directions state to set the color level to the mid-point, I found turning the color level to approx 1/4 I could get a much better response curve.
I pulled the lead on the color level pot and did some measuring, the spec is 25k, mine measures 1.78 ohms to 29.624k. The taper appears to be a steep logarithmic curve, my mid-point measures 1.375k, and the 1/4 setting is approx 700 ohms. Someone with math skills could probably calculate what the midpoint value should be for a 25k pot. Directionally I know my midpoint is shifted up since my pot measures high. https://i.imgur.com/djfD8I2.png |
SAMS shows the color level replacement as Mallory part number PP253R which uses their #2 right hand logarithmic taper. The chart shows at 50% it should be at 90% resistance (2.5K where mine measures 1.375K). Now it's possible that Zenith used a special logarithmic taper and the Mallory part is all that was available for the aftermarket.
It's odd that my pot being 20% high measures lower than what the Mallory chart says it should be but also odd I need way less resistance to get a good curve (300 to 700 ohms is the range that appears to be a happy medium when adjusting L17 and L19 yield a proper response curve). Should I move on or does having to set the color level way high (1/4 turn from max) suggest there are other problems? *Edit* The other factor is the signal level from the B&K 415 going into C1, I have it maxed out but as I turn it up I am able to back off the color level just a small bit. I suspect the only issue is I don't have enough signal strength going in. :( In the subsequent Zenith Service Manual (CM-107) for the next roundie series chassis the directions include a note that the signal generator and scope may need to be set near the maximum, but don't overload. https://i.imgur.com/2xQ6Z5V.png |
Are there any instructions for tuning L18? The symbol indicates it is tunable. Since the odd response occurs when adjusting the color level control in parallel with it, L18 may be the problem.
I would not be concerned about the mismatch of the log curve as long as it is in the right direction. |
I'm guessing now that L18 is supposed to be self-resonant at 3.58 MHz, and the purpose of setting L19 to minimum at 3.58 MHz is to flatten that peak. So, it looks to me like L18 is tuned to too high a frequency. When you turn the color level, the peak should go up and down at 3.58 MHz, not at the higher frequency shown.
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Continuing along the next few steps went well.
Color Sync Alignment
Color Level Adjustment
Range Check of Hue Control
Alignment Points https://i.imgur.com/whehTAk.png |
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After going through the other alignment steps here is what the Video Amp test point U with the color level set at the half-way point, it looks better than before.
https://i.imgur.com/ziRmbQX.jpg Also here are some videos (note they should open in Imgur, let me know if they don't work)
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First video: looks like maximum 415 drive is overloading the set and giving a false flattening of the curve by crushing the peak. Don't try for higher, in fact make sure it's not too much.
Second video: yikes what mess! Stick with the suggested half-way setting for now. Third video: There is only one point that gives a symmetrical response about 3.58 MHz? |
Seeing the correct two nulls for L19 may be confused because you aren't changing the damping resistor.
Again, this suggests to me to adjust L18 so the peak goes up and down at 3.58 with color level adjustment, and adjusting L19 in conjunction with L18 for most symmetrical response. |
I tried adjusting L18 with the goal of having the 3.58mc peak go up and down with color level adjustment. I also kept the B&K 415 signal turned down a bit from max. I don't know that I got it much better, video: https://imgur.com/A9hrDx1
I have checked all of the parts in the color amp circuits and I believe they are good, I have tried alternate 1st & 2nd color amp tubes, and made coil adjustments but the 4.1mc marker always has a much stronger response and it takes the color level at about 70-75% before the curve looks correct. Note probably unrelated but the last step of the color alignment is the 3.58mc traps which I got confused on and did not adjust the traps yet. I will reset, look everything over, try again, and report back. old_tv_nut, thank you. |
OK, but after adjusting L18, did you try readjusting L19 to get things flatter?
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A few more actions and notes:
One option would be to pull the 8.2k resistor, add the 100k resistor and via a VTVM adjust the 2nd color amp coil to the 1st dip (nearest the chassis). I am confused by the directions, it notes to disable the sweep but to pass in the 3.63mc marker, the B&K 415 combines these functions so not sure how I would do this. What is the VTVM measuring, I assume overall voltage. Does a single marker act like a signal generator? https://i.imgur.com/hplROKV.jpg |
Would there be an affect on the color amp response from the other color circuits such as the oscillator or demodulator? To get the TV up and running I avoided replacing most all ceramic capacitors. Below are the ones that measured way off.
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https://imgur.com/YFLdxcx -- increase is linear, shape doesn't change - very good measurement conditions.
https://imgur.com/l563K5B -- obviously overdriving and distorting at higher levels "Would there be an affect on the color amp response from the other color circuits such as the oscillator or demodulator?" - No. "where I have landed for now" - I'd say leave it this way for now and see how the picture looks, but it still is strange that you cannot get the response higher at 3.08 MHz. Could you remind me where on the schematic is the sweep signal injected? |
Sweep injection for the color amp alignment is at C1 which is just after the IF picture detector diode. This bypasses all of the IF alignment circuitry accept the 4.5mc filter (which I fiddled with just to see if it had an affect, nope it just shifts response curve left or right of the 4.5mc marker)
I agree it is strange I can not get the response higher at 3.08mc. I would like to think it is not something dumb with my testing setup or tools. Thinking though could an out of spec coupling capacitor pass but attenuate part of the frequency response? Otherwise I am looking at LC circuits which all have been gone through. Could I create a test point after the first color amp circuit, or at other points to see where I lose the response? Thoughts on where in the circuit? |
For Reference here is the full Zenith CM-106 Service Manual Schematic: https://i.imgur.com/i1nBrxi.jpg
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Here is what I get off of the cathode of the 2nd color amp tube and a 150 ohm resistor (measured here as this resistor is soldered into a pin that is assessable from the top. Color level set to mid-point, I will assume the peak is at 3.63mc, here too the 3.08mc has a reduced response. As expected at max color level there is no signal as the pot goes to zero. Adjusting L17 only increases or decreases the overall response curve while holding the 3.63mc marker at the peak. I also tried to measure at Pin 7 of the first color amp but the signal was too low to really measure.
With the directions for L19 to minimize the 3.58mc marker I assume that leaves the earlier circuitry to provide an overall response curve wide enough to cover 3.08mc through 4.08mc. Here with the 1st color amp the center point seems like it should be shifted in frequency a bit lower. https://i.imgur.com/pVjCH4J.png https://i.imgur.com/pahZLPM.png |
Reading the Color TV Training Manual 3rd Edition. Below is the overview for the chroma bandpass amplifier. Conveniently they picked a Zenith circuit as an example, they note is that the 7pf capacitor blocks the luminance signal, if this capacitor was off spec a bit could it attenuate towards the 3.08mc signal?
https://i.imgur.com/CswcpyD.jpg |
One more post from reading Basic Televisions Principles and Servicing Forth Edition. Here their section on the chroma bandpass explains that the chroma amplifier circuit should peak a little above 4.1mc so when fed from the IF circuit you get the typical textbook response. This would still suggest the response I get out of the 1st chroma amp is not peaked correctly, so who know what the issue is with my chassis.
https://i.imgur.com/q6zAbLJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3VVROr0.jpg |
The reponse at the "new test point" (top of color level control) confuses me. If it is supposed to control color level, its peak effect (due to L18 resonance) should be at 3.58, in my opinion. I can't understand why they would want the symmetry of the response to change with color level setting.
Try this: change your test point to the cathode of the second amp (pin 6 above the 150 ohm) and turn the color level to max to take L18 out of action. See what the response is and what effect tuning L17 has. Then maybe we can go from there. |
"the chroma amplifier circuit should peak a little above 4.1mc"
True, and I would expect to see that if you look at the 2nd amp cathode with the color level set to max. However, I would then still expect to see L18 tuned to 3,58 MHz so that the whole sloped response goes up and down with the color level control. Note that this means that you would still expect to see a sloped response at the final test point (cathode of the R-Y Demod) because the injected 3.58 sweep has not been RF modulated and passed through the IF. So this makes the illustrations of final flat response suspect. |
Note the text "If you were to align only the chroma bandpass amplifier...this method is rarely used however." So they are recommending injecting an IF sweep instead of the 3.58 MHz sweep. AND the symmetrical sketches shown with the 3.58 sweep injection are bogus.
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So two important comments were made tonight, the extra studying was good too:
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https://i.imgur.com/nEXvkwB.png https://i.imgur.com/BHZhvQO.png |
The B&K 415 manual does outline using the video function for the chroma circuit alignment, so I'm not sure what to think, it is also possible there is an issue with my B&K 415 :(. Maybe others with a B&K 415 can chime in. Note section 8.5.3 goes on to say its easiest to just continue on from IF alignment to chroma alignment by keeping the signal probe connected to the tuner (I assume here is when you would keep the function set to IF), then simply switch to the demod probe and continue on.
https://i.imgur.com/1thSozc.jpg |
Ok, when you switch the B&K to IF but inject at C1, you apparently get some video detection action, I guess. But there's no telling if it is loading any traps correctly.
The next thing I would try is leaving the B&K output set for IF but moving the injection point to the IF input/mixer test point. With all the IF and trap stages in operation, it may make the curve even closer to ideal. |
Question: when you changed output to IF, did you need to adjust sweep width/centering to get the chroma bandpass curve centered on the scope?
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Stay tuned for a troubleshooting interruption. While still connected at C1 I was double checking the response curve and the waveform started to get erratic and now only has a minimal response curve. I pulled the test equipment and I have a very blue screen and basically no color, something failed.
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Not sure what the root issue(s) were with the problems I had. As noted above first there was an issue with the color amp signal which occurred as I adjusted the Heathkit IG-5240 pocket signal generator, I fiddled with the controls which maybe was my problems.
From there after pulling and putting the chassis back in the issues changed to diagonal lines of signal against a white screen and then later a bright but faint image. The IF and color amp signals now looked correct so I poked around in the AGC and video circuit, all parts in these circuits measured ok. The Zenith Color TV Service Manual by R.L. Goodman has a section on actual issues and resolutions. One issue noted: Washed-out picture, no sync. AGC, sync trouble. Set may have to warm up before picture fades out. The cause was a leaky or shorted .01uf capacitor at grid, pin 5 of the sync - AGC tube. The capacitor tested ok but regardless I replaced it, was this the issue, I don't know but the set is back working. https://i.imgur.com/91ELGGf.png Back to the alignment: Quote:
https://i.imgur.com/jky4Opv.png |
Question: Which input should I trust for the color amp alignment in regards to feeding the B&K 415 signal into the tuner vs test point C1 (post video detector)?
Connecting the B&K 415 to the tuner with the output set to IF I can adjust L19 to where I see the 3.58mc marker decrease and then have a defined low spot, also L17 allows me to create a flat-ish response with the 3.08mc and 4.08mc markers even. Below is the optimized response curve with the B&K 415 signal input at the tuner, the 3.58mc marker is at its lowest response, and then the 3.08mc and 4.08mc markers are even. The 2nd pic is then the resultant response curve when moving the input to C1 and setting the output to video, note leaving it on IF works but barely yields a response curve. I am inclined to think I have it set correct this way and the "odd" response curve at C1 is due to the B&K 415 vs a mis-alignment. https://i.imgur.com/wYuARxf.png |
Your final result with the B&K 415 input to the tuner is obviously correct.
It's the overall result of signal going through the whole chain from tuner to picture that needs to be correct. The odd result when going in at C1 may be the result of the video detector circuit being loaded by the signal cable, plus, it is possible that both the SAMS and the Zenith documents are screwed up in not recognizing that the chroma bandpass by itself should have a tilt that compensates for the IF response. Declare victory and move on! |
I went back through the subsequent color alignment steps to double check everything. I posted directions back a few pages. The only notable item was for the color sync alignment you adjust L34 for zero beat on screen and minimum movement of color bars through picture. This was very dependent on fine tuning and my rf converter and signal bar generator both require a bit of different fine tuning. Adjusting to the signal bar generator probably means the rf converter could be off, maybe there is plenty of "wiggle" room with this adjustment.
The last color alignment step is to adjust the 3.58mc traps. The directions are to connect a color bar generator to the antenna, connect the scope to test points RR, SS, & TT and adjust each trap for minimum for minimum 3.58mc response. My question, what am I looking at on the scope and what component is the 3.58mc response? https://i.imgur.com/WjX0PVz.png https://i.imgur.com/ESb7bky.png |
1) It seems odd that the color oscillator beat frequency should be affected by fine tuning, but is very normal that when adjusted using one source it will be different with another source. It depends on whether the sources are close in color subcarrier frequency or not.
2) At the horizontal sweep rate you are using on your scope, adjust the 3.58 traps for minimum "fuzz" (trace thickness), which is caused by residual 3.58 MHz at the output of the demodulators. You may also be able to see the 3.58 MHz in the picture as a fine, moving dot pattern. |
Sometimes when chroma osc lock is effected by fine tuning it is a result of the horizontal hold being set to the edge of lock and the flyback winding pulse that gates the burst isn't lining up with the burst.
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I am calling it done. The set has a much better picture, probably not perfect but I am very happy. Maybe related to the full alignment or maybe due to the new to me Blonder Tongue BAVM-860SAW modulator but I no longer get horrible noise during commercials transitions which made it un watchable before. Next will be a final color purity and convergence once I get the set brought into the living room.
A special thank you to old_tv_nut. Your help and advice very much appreciated. |
Pictures, please!
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Some pictures below to include the Danish modern cabinet and also my test bench setup. As I look close I see some ghosting or smearing, maybe an artifact of the setup and adjustments, also the CRT in the cabinet should be a bit stronger so the guns and contrast can come down.
https://i.imgur.com/0gmldVs.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A6xS2sT.jpg https://i.imgur.com/sNXAoFq.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HfuyFBi.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iSJkKmi.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8MaO7cn.jpg |
Thanks!
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