It's not uncommon if a set was in a living room close to a kitchen or if there is a coil or transformer containing wax close to a part for it to get an oily or waxy look. One check you could make if you don't have a leakage tester is to put a cap of over 10X the value in series with the low voltage end of the ceramic caps ( a .1uF will work for anything smaller than a .01uF) then measure the DC voltage of the point between the two caps. The voltage may initially float up but it should 0 out within around 10 seconds of connecting the DMM...If DC voltage doesn't 0 out within a reasonable amount of time you have leakage.

Putting a large test capacitance in series with a small test capacitance will yield an effective series capacitance close to that of the smaller capacitance, and the greater the difference between the two the closer the effective value comes to being unchanged from the existing small value.

AGC does need manual bias voltage injection if the automatic part is disabled....Heck if the automatic part is not disabled, but isn't working right using a manual bias supply to force it to the value it needs to be can be used as a troubleshooting procedure...The exact voltage it needs to work may be different than the one listed in the alignment procedure as the signal level may be different and the alignment procedure may desire adjusting amps at min or max AGC gain for linearity reasons.

I would strongly advise against changing capacitors unless you can prove failure. Changing caps WILL make alignment needed if they were not defective before replacement.
Changing resistors to 5% or better modern replacements typically fixes alignment issues if the original was bad, or barely changes anything if the original was good (provided lead dress is carefully kept the same).
I have on 2 CTC-2 and 2 CTC-4 sets fixed egregious alignment issues by replacing all resistors that were off tolerance or at the edge of tolerance with modern tighter tolerance parts....On the CTC-4s the sound, luminance and chroma were all so far apart from each other on the fine tuning that you could only get 1.5 out of 3 in good at once (you could get any 1 of the 3 in alone good at a different fine tuning spot) before resistor changes, and normal fine tuning and operation after resistor changes.

That’s the kicker here I haven’t found any bad resistors anywhere I had sound but it fizzled out to static and distortion can here voices but it was there almost to say a resistor went really high but found nothing that’s why I’m now looking at caps leaking or shorted.

But, as mentioned before, that is only what your meter is telling you with the set not in operation, things MAY change when power is on with the older carbon ones.

By carefully replacing them with 2% film types, you take that out of the equation, many have said before, disc caps are the most reliable types of caps used, and pretty much never fail unless physically damaged, and as EM stated, replacing them in this situation raises the chances of needing a full alignment to 100%

Trying something different on the bench got speaker hooked up and while I monitor the voltage on pin 8 of the first IF and at the same time using the subber when I probe at the 8.2pf no change in voltage but when I go ahead of that cap and the coils that the antenna goes threw I probe pin 2 of the same tube and the voltage goes from 64 to 70v for all I know maybe lightening hit this set and maybe damaged the coil or the 8.2 pf cap.

AGC will react to any kind of input to the grid of the 1st IF amp, be it a clean RF source, or noisy garbage and alter tube bias on pin 8, you so much at get a finger near C10 , let alone touch the leads, on the input side, ACG will change the bias of the tube.

Ok the 680k in k1 I subbed and the voltages went up from the 60s to 90 on first and 85 on second so you did say k1 were in common with the first 2 IF tubes. The 680k measured 744k not so high but this may be critical.

I also got the sound back nice and clear I will never take for granted that a tube is good because the tester says so it was the detector tube tests great but was no good and the voltages are 90 85 195 and I figure the voltages should come up alittle more once it’s back in and the tuner is plugged in. I hope this time I have video.

I’m going to make a new couplet k1 and being it has to do with the IF is it essential to pot it in some sort of epoxy or just on a small board.

Now I’m showing excessive currant on the -45v side of the hot. I think this flyback is crap got a dim screen.

this makes no sense... is was OK before, your last post stated " make a new couplet k1" was that done?

if so, it clearly upset something, try putting it back the way it was before.

No I didn’t make the couplet until I get resistors I only had the 680k the others are so so but in trying to set the -45 I noticed I can’t get it to -45 and the screen is dim at 22kv and with the meter on number 5 of the hot my meter is showing 1.3 amps on the ac scale but I had it set to dc but I know this meter if there is excess current it shows on the top scale and you are right none of this makes sense but I will tell you that I had to adjust the horizontal coil to get the oscillator going initially after getting a better signal to the IF but I took to look and the hot both turned red so I don’t know if I damaged the flyback because of that I don’t know and I’m preparing put the original flyback back in because I don’t trust the new one this maybe affecting the agc and the IF.

Or was the degradation of performance due to putting the chassis back in the cabinet/reconnecting everything? :scratch2:

jr

I really don't understand what you are trying to say, there is no “setting” of the -45v on the grid of the HOT, and that is not an absolute value by any means, it is a general voltage in DC, that means the horizontal oscillator is running.

There is no current measurement there.
DC voltage only.

The ONLY current measurement is cathode current, and this is done through a coupling cap AND a current meter for both tubes independently, but only when the set is up and stable.

The meter you have does NOT have the range to do the cathode current test, so don't try.
I'm not sure what you were attempting, but nothing but dc voltage measurements should be done on the grid of the HOT.

This tv is a huge cluster fxxk I tried 2 new hot no different and I tried a new 3at2 no different oh and now the 3 b+ voltages are low 275 is down 15 v 190 down to 185 and the 145 down to 138v this is nuts all I did was the 680k and that’s it.