I bought the last flyback for this tv that I know of and it is new but so old all the wax that coats the donut came completely off clean I’m wondering if I should coat it with silicone.

IF the FBT is OK to start with, then something like. MG Chemicals 4228-55ML Red Insulating Varnish. very messy, but works.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0716221404.jpg

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0717222342.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0719221857.jpg

how i saved the FBT on my Coffman colorcaster .

This flyback is new never used but may have been stored in sunlight heat the donut has nothing on it the wax got hard and peeled right off. Silicone is messy as well but it should protect it.

Corona dope has a very high dielectric factor, and can easily get into the deeper layers as it's a liquid, and can be put on in layers. it was made for HV applications.

Looks like there’s a short in the donut checked the rectifier hv regulator both ok and brightness down set to 24 kv brightness up hv drops to 20 kv and donut gets hot so it’s done. This flyback is 57 years old and besides they usually don’t let you low there are going bad afterall they can just short and that’s it.

Well, if you don't get about 600 ohms from the caps of the horizontal output tubes to the cap of the HV regulator tube, then that is a sign it's toast, otherwise, it may be something else if it is 600.

Well it measured well below 600 IIRC it was around 580

That's within 4% which I consider to be within a reasonable margin of error for a part to be considered good.

You really need to do a ring test to find shorted turns when it's that close.

It’s got to be shorted because it gets hot rather quickly and if I lower brightness alittle the hv comes up

It could be regulator failure, or like what I had, burned out to ground heater windings to the HV rectifier.

Found it by pulling the cap off the rectifier, and saw I had a strong AC arc to ground, that was lost when plugged onto the rectifier tube, at any rate, what we are getting at, it's a bit too soon to say the FBT is bad yet.

I realize that maybe I’m causing high current draw on the pic tube since I have all 3 g2 pots at max but the g1 is low.

That could darn well do it. G2s should be set with contrast normal, brightness minimum, vertical sweep disabled (using service switch if there is one), and set G2 so associated color produces a barely visible horizontal line in a dim room. If G2s achieve that at lower in their rotational range and you crank them up above their correct setpoint you'll lug down your HV, and focus, and probably strain the heck out of the flyback making it heat up.

Well this is a Motorola with no service switch I’ll have to adjust color again the sams says to raise all 3 so I missed something.

If you got no switch just pull one of the vert yoke wires or the vertical tube...Where there's a will there's a way. Just because Sam's came up with a procedure doesn't necessarily mean it's right or even factory approved.

Well apparently sams was wrong because I referred to a Motorola book I have for the ts907 and it says to set g2 to mid point that’s alot less then all the way up as sams says. Well I hope I didn’t damage the flyback I did check the donut ohms it measured 586 ohms so I guess it’s ok.

I got the color pattern to help assist, it was tough to tune it in but I did but regular tv has color bars just waiting to drop on to a picture . this IF business really sucks trial and error but the pattern started out with no color at all. Using a dvd with an rf modulator to the antenna terminals this is what I was able to get after adjusting but how much different is the antenna signal compared to the dvd signal.

Well well well! That proves that each and every part of the set works.

Interestingly, the color bars from bottom up (orange up) are + and - I then
- and + Q.

Where does that test pattern come from? What DVD?

PM5544 find it on line take a picture on the computer then burn the image on a dvd that’s what I did. While it may look good on this set it’s not because red is not exactly red the colors are not there yet. Kind of not understanding while the colors look ok they seem to be in the wrong place and not exactly what the pattern shows maybe because it’s a digital image.

I found the original.

The image on your TV set has a seriously wrong "red" or "magenta" bar. The exact nature of the problem ... undersaturated ... is very frequently
that the main video carrier is at an improper spot on the IF response slope.

I strongly suspect that all your set now needs is a full IF and possibly but less likely also RF alignment, and getting the AGC working right. The AGC won't work
right unless the video carrier is at the right spot on the slope.

The CTC-5 at the ETF which I worked on last spring has the exact same
problem.

You seem to be a patient person. Its perfectly possible to align a TV
with nothing but a plain signal generator and an analog voltmeter! Just
use the bias box you already have to override AGC and meter at the
video detector, plain DC. You can in a pinch even use the second harmonic
of the oscillator of a SW radio, you just have to take into account of that
oscillator's (typically 455 kHZ) offset from the dial. I've actually done that
in a pinch!

What is exactly the main video carrier are you referring to the rf modulator with DVD player or in the IF strip. what would I do at the detector measure voltage from what to what ? All I have is a tuner subber.

By video carrier I mean the main carrier of the RF signal ... 1.25 MHz up from the
bottom frequency of the channel (at RF .... down from the top at IF).

But if you don't already have something suitable as generator .... There's got to be
somebody near you who can loan you one and show you even a bit how to use it.
I'd do that if I were not 1000 miles away.

Doug

But if I was to get that pattern perfect color wise does that mean color in video would be good also.

yeah, they are not cheap :(

i got this a year or so back to align my BW Arvin TV.
https://tinyurl.com/24atccvt

So what exactly does this unit do ?

It's a multifunction RF signal generator that goes up to 60 mhz, does sine wave, square-wave, Triangle half, and many others, sine wave in the 40 mhz range is what is needed to do TV alignments with exact control. Which what this has be cause you can set the freq and amplitude.

Probably, assuming the video connection was done correctly.

If you can adjust the diagonal noise away with fine tuning and retain enough color signal you may be able to get away with tweaking the hue/tint control and if that isn't enough eyeballing the color demod transformer...I've had to do the old demod eyeball adjustment on my CTC-4s it's not that hard....Granted if that test pattern looks perfect hue wise with video injection (haven't seen that checked yet), but looks terrible through the IF then that would be an IF alignment issue.

Well it is an IF alignment issue so I’m passing time screwing around with all 3 cans since it’s messed up already I have nothing to lose. But I was able to get all colors for the first time on this pattern but it looked like fine tuning it would clear it up but then lost the color lock on the colors so it appears it’s close

Maybe all it needs is a tweak to the color osc. I typically take a fully saturated color bar pattern, crank color level to max, set fine tuning to the weakest signal level where I can still make out the barberpoling then adjust the color osc to sync. If you can rock the channel knob and not loose sync with the fine tuning at the edge of passing color then you'll never loose color lock on normal content.

I seem to get all the colors in there place on the pattern except for red it shows up in the wrong place while others are right on. And trying to adjust this I don’t know if I should have the color up and the tint control up these 2 things could add to the difficulty in trying to get the color right.

If all you are doing is setting the tint/hue you want color level to be fairly low. If you have color level too high and overdrive the demodulator you'll get distortion in the demodulate hue...It's also important to have purity good before trying to watch or adjust color...I once drove myself mad for a few hours trying to figure out why the yellow bar on a SMPTE color bar pattern was wrong on a Zenith despite all other bars being right....After chasing my tail I gave up and dialed in the purity and suddenly yellow was as perfect as all the other bars.

The red is not where it should be but the pic is better then the last one. Purity is good got white screen.

Besides the diagonal interference it looks good to me. The magenta/red aren't perfect, but I've watched worse.

Well I got it even better but tv video only has color lines running across the screen it’s not locking in.

This is a running video fed to the antenna input of the tv why is the video playing with perfect color but I put the cable wire on and this is what I get. What is the difference between the dvd and rf modulator and cable.

It's possible your DVD has higher color level on it's output and is overdriving the demodulator in the TV.

The main difference I see between the last 2 pictures is loss of color sync (barberpoling) in the second picture.
You fix babrberp the way I described earlier by adjusting the chroma osc transformer with a color bars test pattern and color level maxed and fine tuning set for the worst position that gives recognizable color/barberpoling, and adjust color osc to achieve sync under that worst case scenario so that it syncs very easily under better fine-tuning/signal conditions.

All the adjustments I did was in the IF transformers v1 2 and 3 to get to where I am now with the color picture which was a running video and that test pattern so I want to be careful and sure about turning other things turning the IF adjustments was bad enough. The color level on the tv is set really low. I’ll have to check the sams for which trans is. Which coil is it A17 or A18 one says chroma reference osc the other is chroma reference osc control.

Don’t know how far to turn the slug in the osc but can’t detune to get those lines color gets brighter then snow tried turn the slug with cable hooked up but the slug is really tight was able to move alittle back and forth no change. Could there be a problem with the 3.58 crystal where it would work for the dvd but not cable signal

if you can't get it to lock with just slight tuning of the osc coil, it is more likely not a osc sync problem, and more related to the IF response curve.

Ok but I don’t understand how a video can play as good as it does and yet won’t Except the cable line what is the big difference between cable rf and dvd- rf modulator. How much should this slug be turned maybe I didn’t turn it enough.