From the way that ad sounds, Jr should have a "trouble-free" experience in turning on his set! :D

Sure is funny what companies would say to make their product sound better than someone else's!

My thanks to John Folsom for posting my pix of the captions containing the model numbers from the Westinghouse ad. Still a mystery about the different model #s between the SAMS listing and the ad text.

-Steve D.

I suspect that the T in the model number stands for table, and the K for console (sic). Per jr's earlier post, the Photofact only references T models so perhaps no console models were ever built. If we had additional information on the other surviving sets (assuming they're real), that might help to answer this question.

I wonder if the TU model number listed on jr's label refers to a version that includes a UHF tuner?

That is the way that I have done it in the past. I had not heard of this process of bringing up the voltage slowly with the horiz output tubes disconnected, until I read some posts in this forum. Can somebody explain the theory behind this? My *guess* is that the flyback could possibly be cooked if the horiz osc does not start before current flows through the horiz output tubes. Is this the concern?

jr

The tube layout chart shows an alternate UHF tuner that does not appear to be covered in Photofact 357-12 (5-57). Mine does not have the UHF tuner and the stamped model number (barely visible in the photo that I posted) does not have the "U" although there is a space at that position: "H22T 155D". So the 155 is mahogany and the 156 is Blonde and the 161 never existed?

jr

Jr's post came in as I was typing mine. Photofact 357-12 was published almost a year after jr's set was mfg. So more unanswered questions on model #'s. Cabinet styles never produced? Here's my post as submitted:
I agree that a "U" designation in a model # usually indicates the optional UHF tuner. The rest of a model # may include cabinet type ie: table, console ect. and perhaps a finish such as Mahogany or Limed-Oak ect. The SAMS numbers does include several numbers for the 22" such as those ending in 155A/156A/157A this may include the console as well as the table model.
The console model was selected for the cover photo featuring various 1956-57 color sets (2nd from top) In the Radio & Television News special Color Television issue in 1957. The cover is posted on my site. A dealer catalog featuring these 22" models would answer a lot of these questions. A fellow VK collector may have this catalog stashed somewhere. Check that carton of catalogs in the basement, garage or back closet. We all have them.

-Steve D.

John Folsom, does your service manual say anything about model numbers and the differences between them?

The Westinghouse service data in Riders Vol. 21 give this list for models:
H22T155
H22TU155
H22T157A
(mahogany)
H22T156
H22TU156
(limed oak)

Chassis
V-2293 or V-2294

In addition, in the parts list there is a half page of assorted knobs, escutcheon and trim pieces assigned to the various cabinet types and models. It seems like the "A" version has some kind of pushbutton on/off, and a window in the escutcheon (tuning indication?). The "U" definitely indicates UHF tuning.

There is no mention of a console version. Riders Vol 21 is copyright 1957.

...

If that was my set and the CRT was good and in the series filament string, I would try to put in a separate CRT filament transformer. Can't hurt.

Light !
 

Well this ain't much... but it is light, :yes: It appears that when we removed the tube for the photo session, we got the yoke off 120 degrees :(

Since Peter Kellers crt book was published in 1991, I suspect that the set has not been turned on since then or I *might* have noticed this error.

Again, thanks all for the good input!


"I would try to put in a separate CRT filament transformer"

It actually has a 6.3V winding on the autotransformer that is used for the B+... Strange, but inexpensive way to go!

jr

Wow, that is fantastic! I must confess a considerable amount of green envy! Now you need to give it a good re-cap, and see were you are. Please post some photos of it all tweaked up and working well when the time comes.

I agree with Andy, I cannot see any real advantage to bringing a set up on a variac with the HOT removed, as opposed to doing the same thing with the HOT in place.

Amazing! It's great that it works.

John

WOW Jr That leaves me without words. I am speachless! What a rare moment in our hobby. So very thankful to you for sharing all of this with us.

I second that!:thmbsp: I'll also add to John Folsom's comment by saying I think we're all a bit green with jealousy on this one, what an awesome sight. :thmbsp::D:banana: