I’d love to have that service manual! The bulletin for the 47 available on the ETF technical information treasure chest has schematics and wiring diagrams for later editions of the chassis. The Sams is very good. The service info I have that has a schematic and parts list identical to my chassis is a comprehensive, landscape orientation RCA publication for repair shops that has many simple schematics parts list info for many TVs that might find their way into a shop in the 1950s.

Here's the link to the 1950 RCA Victor Service manual at www.worldradiohistory.com The KCS 47 series starts on page 324 of the pdf. It's most likely the same as what's in Riders.

https://www.worldradiohistory.com/AR...ol-VI-1950.pdf

Wow thank you so much for that! Tonight’s tale…replaced the fuse and found the probable cause for the low HV. The replacement flyback is NOS but looking more closely at it, the cap clip lead for the 6BG6 was barely hanging on to its solder point by a couple of strands of the wire. It had been covered by heat shrink and when I pulled that back I discovered it. Resoldering that connection resulted in the HV going up to 10KV. I had full deflection in both orientations. Then…another disaster. I smelled smoke and saw light from under the chassis from around the AC line in plug close to the power transformer. I still had full B+, an image on the screen and a stable horizontal waveform. I quickly shut things down and investigated it I couldn’t see any evidence of it problem. I turned it back on and got the same magic emanation. My concern of course is the transformer but there was no discoloration around the port for the wires and no hot spots. The B+ and the screen image came up fine again. Tomorrow I’ll have to power it up without the CRT and yoke on edge so I can identify the source. This chassis has had extensive work done on it over its lifetime. I don’t think more than a couple of caps are original and there’s lots of solder blobs on poorly done work. The adventure continues!

Sounds like you're making good progress. You should not have to remove your test CRT and yoke while operating the chassis on it's side. As long as you have everything secure it should be just as happy on it's side. When I work on a set it spends most of it's burn it time on it's side. The only problem is getting a stiff neck if you try watching it for long periods.

The short was in the insane wiring out of the transformer where there was hardly any space for the deteriorating 12 wires coming out of a very small transformer opening right into and down past an edge of the chassis that was sharp. This is a very bad design. Makes me worry about my working TV and what might be going on with that mess.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/j7jX46.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...924/WO7eom.jpg

That's not a normal problem. Once a transformer is installed at the factory there's ordinarily no movement of the wires that would fatigue them like that. Somehow that one has been roughed up over the years, either pulled for some reason or a replacement pulled from another chassis. Looks like you've come up with a good solution.

Like I said, this TV has been worked over multiple times quickly and sloppily. There was a burn mark on the chassis where it was shorting. The wires in this set are in some of the worst condition I've seen. Some of the insulation is simply crumbling off.

So this is the last set with the good CRT, that looked so nice on the outside, and said that it worked in the ad?

Yes it is. I can’t imagine it worked for anyone in this state. Also, all the adjustments in the horizontal section were messed with to the extreme. Can’t wait to get to the alignment!

There’s a half moon cutout on the chassis that is supposed to help with the spacing but I’m going to need to enlarge it with a file or a Dremel and grinding bit. The wires are bigger with the shrink wrap and I don’t want to repeat the same issue.

Hey Chris.
There was the KCS28 RCA chassis with the alignment issue last year. What happened to it?
And there was what I suggested was a magnetized nel on the 16GP4?
Are there any updates on these projects?

Hello my friend...first let me thank you for all the time and information you've shared with me both on and off the forum regarding these and other projects. My frustrations with these TVs gets to a point where I move onto another unrestored set putting the previous one on hold.

The RCA with the alignment issue is currently moved off the bench waiting for more attention. It has a terrific picture despite some ambiguity in how well it's aligned. The first 2 traces I needed to see adjusted by setting the T-3 transformer were good. I got them adjusted perfectly. Then I moved onto the trap adjustments using a potentiometer in a tube socket to change the bias and used an RCA VTVM to adjust minimum and maximum voltages across resistor 119. That's where things started to become problematic for me. I couldn't understand what the VTVM was doing and what it was indicating. I got up to the point where I was clamping resistors across the terminals on the bottom of the traps and that's when I gave up. Because the picture was so sharp and good, I thought it was best to leave it alone and get back to it another time. The remaining issue (besides an ambiguously aligned RF/IF section) was sound that was not aligned with the tuner. So that's where it is at this point. I don't know if I want to go back to square one with the alignment process or shortcut to getting the sound aligned with the correct channel and use it as is. I think my indecision with what to do next has somewhat to do with how much effort you spent trying to guide me through doing it right and understanding what was going on in this particularly difficult TV to align. I want to do it right but I think the part about understanding the resonances and overall relationship between different parts of the IF sections is probably beyond my understanding right now. I'm pretty intimidated by the whole thing especially since the alignment steps are pretty mechanical and I don't know why things didn't go 1-2-3. So that's the current status. I will probably go back to the scope and sweep generator (another detour during the process...all working now) and start from the beginning.

As for the bent picture/magnetized cone theory on the KCS47, the end of the thread suggested this was a normal side effect of the shape of the cone and front of the tube so I didn't proceed with any demagnetizing efforts. The chassis that's the topic of this thread is the original that was in the TV so my efforts are to get it restored, put it in service and see if there are any improvements. I know that probably doesn't make any sense if the cone is indeed magnetized but I really don't want to get into removing the tube from the cabinet which would be necessary to do a demagnetizing protocol properly. So I'm stuck right now and don't know how to proceed. The short term plan is to finish the chassis restoration and go from there.

So that's the story as it stands. Again, thank you for how much time, thought and expertise you have generously provided. I've been trying my best to get these things right but there's so much all of you experts know and say in giving advice and counsel that's everyday language for you but goes right over my head. Reality is, I'm not much more than a part replacer who hopes for the best when finished. I want to know more and I have many textbooks on the topic. The only thing I don't have is time. I have a full time day job and I teach today's clueless and entitled youth biology 2 nights a week at a university nearby. At 65, I thought I'd have more time but......

Again, thank's so much for thinking of me and the projects.

Hey Chris,

Did you get your transformer wiring issues squared away OK? For your information, even after having several video IF alignments under my own belt, it's not exactly something I look forward to, not just for the sake of saying I've done it. It's one of those things that demands so much time and concentration, that it often seems like a nasty job. Then after seeing how little improvement it often results in, I'm for the most part content to leave well enough alone. But you do have to make an informed judgment call dependent on how the set performs. I often end up simply touching up the sound IF alignment so it's aligned with best picture tuning. And lately I've even gotten lazy with this and aligned the sound to the 4.5mhz carrier of my VHS/DVD combo player which has an RF modulator built in. So with the DVD player I can pause the video and the muted audio sound carrier is still present to align to using a scope or high impedance meter similar to what Sams alignment instructions typically call for. Funny thing is I seldom watch the TV's once they get taken off my work bench, so not much motivating for me to begrudgingly go through the entire video IF alignment. On the other hand from an educational perspective it makes perfect sense to do a few so you understand what is all involved, and of course it ultimately gives you a better understanding of how the circuits in the TV all work together. But it's definitely something you need to approach with caution, and most likely after you gain a better understanding of why and how its done.

Hey Kevin...the transformer is reinstalled in the TV and about half the wiring is connected up. I had to rotate the transformer 180 degrees and I still needed to cut part of the chassis out to accommodate the thicker wires. I am going to align the trap infested RCA after this and one more project on my bench...an Aja 5842 German radio that's pretty rare and has no documentation online anywhere. I have a Grundig Super Majestic that I restored several years ago and the AJA is a similar form factor (Aren't all of these 1950-1960s West Germany made radios?!)

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...922/kWnH5H.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...923/EPkn5B.jpg

Not sure I understand why the transformer was rotated. I avoid most German radios because of some unusual parts that are difficult to replace. Fragile PC boards, terminal strips, and plastic components. And those band switching contacts and mechanisms seem problematic. That said my folks owned a couple Grundig receivers and those did have a very nice sound back in the day.