This is very good looking. Looks like you now have a light weight less expensive
B&K Analyst....

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php...0&d=1666899517

If you apply that signal to the plate of V1 with the coupling capacitor in place
you might be able to pass the signal through the IF Coil A6, it should be tuned
to that IF frequency and pass the signal. Not sure of any other way to be sure
that coil is actually "Good" as far as passing the signal, Even though the ohms
might read ok.....
Other than that, you will have to go through all those parts around V1 to find
the problem.....

Anyway, looks better than I expected. I'm not sure, but it even looks like
that girl may even have red lipstick on, or it's just my wishful thinking....
If there is - well then it's tuned well enough to pass burst signal too....
I would not turn anything till you can get this set working from it's own tuner.....


You know.... I wonder if you took the iF plug from this tv's own tuner, and jumped
it ahead with a coupling cap, to that V2, if you would see the same results....?

It would also rule out the tv's own tuner as a source for trouble......

You guys have done some good work here......


.

Well now I’m going to go over all resistors at v1 and I’m sure the sets own tuner is good because I get the same result from the subber and the tv tuner I don’t know how far off resistors in the IF strip have to be before knocking out the rf signal. I’m sure that coil at v1 is good the wire inside is heavy gauge wire but anything is possible I did measure it and it’s under 1 ohm. And this v1 is the one that sams indicates that pin 8 should be 3.2k but it actually measures 6.3k so I hope it’s a sams typo because there is no reason that I can find why this would be.

Again it will be most advantageous for you to replace the resistors previously mentioned with new 2% or better, as the first half of the IF can't pass a signal.
The cost of doing this will be very low and the gain will be high, don't just rely on DVM testing, the original ones are old and you know there is a fault in this area, so go ahead and replace.

Problem areas include.

L1 47.25MHZ TRAP
L2 39.75MHZ TRAP
L3 1ST Video IF
perhaps
L4 2nd Video IF
As you could feed a signal direct into V2, but not any steps before it.
again, replacing said said resistors could improve thing quite a bit.

Good Morning:

You know, you could possibly try disconnecting pin 2 of L3, A7, same coil, and feeding
that tuner subber signal to G1 of V1, to see if possibly that trap circuitry is killing
your IF signal..... Just be sure your V1 voltages don't change, like possibly G1
changing bias or something...
You might even check that R23 the wiper arm does not leak to ground, or any
other pin for that matter..... You might even try disconnecting that wiper
arm from the L3 coil and see if it passes a signal.......


.

After all that changing all those resistors the pic shows little to no change and the voltage is 97volts on pin 8 so that’s good. When I had the 10k and 2.2k off I checked L3 under 1 ohm. The other L1 L2 are good also.

This is it. Trying to send a pic but won’t go. But it’s the same. Back to square one. I also checked L4 and it matches L5. I wonder if the agc is messing with the signal the video from antenna input in v2 would the agc have affected that because it didn’t or is agc only at v1.

You say voltage is up on pin 8, this is progress, but you still have to isolate the fault, and that will take a few steps, of chassis in/out going by what Squirrel boy suggested.

==
Try disconnecting pin 2 of L3, A7, same coil, and feeding
that tuner subber signal to G1 of V1, to see if possibly that trap circuitry is killing
your IF signal..... Just be sure your V1 voltages don't change, like possibly G1
changing bias or something...
==
If you get a picture when you do this, then L1,L2,L3 are out of tune, if you do not, and still no video when trying to feed to pin 2 of V1 (which should be 3-7v depending an AGC, ) then L4 is likely out of tune.

I have the bottom off the set and turned on it’s side so I don’t have to take it out again. I remember there was 7.5v on pin 2 and I don’t remember if it changed at all with turning the agc.

7.5v on the grid should be OK for V1 to work, if it does, the gain level needed will be much less than was for V2.

Not really ... its square 5001.
Try these: Feed (as usual through a .01 or .001 uF cap) the external tuner to
pin 2 of V2. Does it work?

Remove V1 and repeat ... is there any difference?

Try connecting the input through the usual cap to the pin 7 on the v1 socket ...
does it work?

Connect the input to pin 2of v1. Check the voltage to ground at the cap lead.
(With tube out). Insert v1. Does the voltage change at all? Does it work?
Wiggle v1 vigorously ... does anything change. Try a different 6EH7 ... does anything change, with wiggling.
If its close quarters, attach a thin bent wire to the probe tip to reach the pins.

Disconnect the wire to pin 2 of L3, everything else the same. Does it work? Is the voltage at pin 2 of v1 the same? Check voltages at each and every terminal of
L1, L2, and L3 ... all should be the same. This takes a high impedance voltmeter.
IF there is any picture at all ... does it change differently as you touch different terminals.

Finally ... have you checked that each and every pin of v1 is in fact making
a connection to a wire connected to that pin? By that, I mean actually touching
a probe to the pin itself, with the tube pulled a little out so you can reach the pin ...
and wiggle the tube. Of course, a tube extender is better.

The picture posted yesterday was when fed into the grid of V2, but there was nothing when he tried the same on V1, he has not tried the plate of V1, however, but he is going to try again with the grid of V1 unhooked from L1,L2,L3, But I suspect the problem is L4 :(

I don’t know there’s something else wrong here L42 keeps getting so hot it’s falling out of the holder that it’s in this is definitely not right the wire on this coil is like hair and if it breaks I’ll have even more headaches unless I find out why.

Maybe there’s something going on with k1 that I made all resistances seem to check out ok but I’ll probably put the original k1 back in because the k1 is agc and tied to all of this madness.

the hot coil problem is most likely due to a faulty C96, But you can't get the exact replacement for it, it may even be what burned r145.

it can be replaced with 2 caps in series,
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...rjw6zMJw%3D%3D
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...EPCXzdjw%3D%3D

this is unrelated to K1
2 3kv caps in series that = 6kv@132pf total

get 2 new 1000v 2amp power diodes at the same time.

C96 is a 130 6kv it’s new I still have the old one. Yet in the pic the other day the focus was good unless this cap is leaking I don’t know. I was able to get a new one from moyers.