Yes they are nice good prices as for the dvm there is no need to condem the one I have already only my meter don’t go above 400ma but right now what good would it be for me to know what the ma is I already know there is a draw down so to look at a meter showing me 700-900ma won’t tell me where it is only that it’s drawing more then it should be which I know already. And the horizontal oscillator loss is due to the current draw on the b+.

But right now, you are working in the dark, you need to know what it is exactly, other than beyond the range of your meter (400), is it taking 500ma? 560? 580? 600-610ma? All of this will be telling you something, you have to know what the draw is first, then if it's too much, then look for the reason of the draw, if it's not, like below 400-500ma, then the power supply may be having a problem putting out enough power in the first place, this would be evident by excessive ripple output, which would wreak havoc with all circuits.

Ok I have another dvm I’ll have to see if that one goes above 500ma and if there is excessive ripple then that would mean bad caps or maybe diodes and what’s going to show me ripple other then a scope.

Yes, bad/weak diodes or leaky caps (c151/c152) would cause excessive ripple before/after L54, and limit the power output, thus the wave seen at L54 would be much higher than 1.5v ptp, and the power supply would be struggling to put out full power.
On the other hand, if it is overloaded, like say over 600ma, then the problem is external, as others have said, don't take the 580ma as gospel, expect -/+ 10%
But the first step, as others have said is to know for sure.

The other meter to low so that’s out but I did look at the dvm I have been using and the range says in the book 400ua 0.01 and the other 2000ua 0.1 so maybe I had the range wrong.

it just does not have the range needed, 2000ua = 2 milliamps.

you need something with a 10a range, cause you are dealing with 500ma 1/2a almost.

Ok so the crt holds lots of voltage even after turned off so from the beginning I’m getting buzzed from the hv cage even when off so I may have hv leaking to ground.

Yes, it's a giant storage capacitor, and it will always find ways to get you!
Best to discharge the anode after it's been on so you don't get zapped, it can't really hurt you, unless you have cardiac issues, as it can scare the crap out of you, and cause you to yank your hand back and cause nasty cuts in the sharp edges all around.
If I had a dollar for every time I have been zapped working on TVs and such, I would have been able to pay my mortgage in ½ year!

There is even ways to have fun with the HV, if you are A) dumb, and B) know what you are doing, like this guy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rb6vMgurAH0

It’s very little I’m feeling I don’t think the hv should make it to ground in that way enough to actually feel it. So I guess it’s not possible for any amount of anode voltage making it to ground wouldn’t cause any problems, I feel it could because after all all the circuits wind up at ground. I know I’m grasping at straws at this point but maybe I should try another regulator tube maybe it has a heater short.

Most likely grounding issue.
The HV cage is screwed to the main chassis, so they are direct connected, the CRT is grounded via aquadag on the outside, normally via a spring touching it, can't be sure about yours not having seen it.
This assembly is normally built into the entire CRT mounting assembly, and grounded at the bottom by a metal strip that touches the main chassis.
If for some reason this does NOT make good contact, then a difference of potential can happen, which can result in unpredictable operation, so usually, when I work on a TV and the chassis is not firmly screwed in the cabinet, I always have a clip lead from the chassis to the CRT mounting assembly for extra safety.

It does have a spring it’s tight and the tube is clean. Is it at all possible that the hv could do what is is from a possible heater cathode short in the 6bk4.

It seems like a short like that could risk smoking R141, and R213, so it's unlikely.
6bk4 pin1 at 380v via R141 (1k) heater z to gnd via R213 (68k) , if shorted, I think something would have to give.

Well maybe this is pulling the b+ down.

Well there is one 450v 80uf cap for the b+ that I’m going to change because I already changed the 160uf caps thinking maybe they were bad but made no difference so I’m going to change that one since even if it checks good it could still be bad don’t know the esr of the cap and maybe it cooked inside from the frequency of the b+ circuit. And after all the cap has a name I never heard of, cheapy.

Changed all power supply caps now all nichicon caps big increase in the b+ but it’s still being pulled down to the point where the horizontal oscillator won’t run then it draws even more and the hot tube again red plates so on the bench this don’t happen but after I put it back in the cabinet and plug everything in this is when it happens so at this point I’ll have to sit on it for now. Baffling to say the least when the oscillator runs I have excellent hv but that’s only when I first plug it in once warm up pull plug put back in no oscillator and big draw. Oh well. The veritcle centering pot after turning more then half then it varies very little I have to think maybe it’s shorted it’s wire wound and has a 385v feed to it or possibly a shorted turn on one of the sections of the verticle output transformer got to think of everything at this point.I guess now I’m going to check voltages on the tubes.

Does a 1n60 diode go partial bad or it’s good or not good. And with the mention of injecting a composite video source does that mean like from a vcr with a .1cap. As for voltages they are there now after changing the damper. Pin 7 of the 6aw8 shows 13v so at test point b is that supposed to be 5 volts to say the diode is good?

Good Morning:

After reviewing the posts since I was away, All I see of any significance is this
post about Horiz. Output tubes overheating.

You don't need to look anyplace else. If the 6JM6 is so overloaded that the
plates glow red then this is a problem. Max ratings for that tube are 175ma
cathode current, The tv schematic shows 120ma each tube cathode current.
I would assume around 220ma it will begin to overheat, 260ma maybe red
hot plates?? This would be a source for lowered power supply voltages. If
only 1 tube overheats that means only 1 has a problem, Possibly not the
Osc. but you have to figure it out. Cathode current readings for each tube
will show what's up.

6JM6 Specs: https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/6/6JM6.pdf

This tv uses 2 6JM6 tubes in parallel, so 2 nearly identical circuits that should
have the exact same voltages on all the tube pins - This is a place to start.
Also cathode current and screen grid currents are printed on the schematic.
You need to check them and see what's going on there.

-45V on G1's most important voltage to measure. You should check all the
parts in the Horiz Osc, & Output section, All Voltages, & Sorry to say but
at some point the wave shapes at input of 6BL8 & 6JM6's. Be sure there is
no DC component making it's way to the G1's.


I would focus my attention here. If an Osc. sometimes does not start, then
you can be sure it's not running properly when it does start, lower output,
possible misshapen signal to the 6JM6's.


I gotta go, see you later on.... Good Luck....



.

What was happening is I was turning the horizontal hold- oscillator and that’s what was making the oscillator stop or not start so both hot are at -45v I adjusted the coil voltages look good on the oscillator tube but now I’m trying to figure out why I cannot get an image on the screen so I’ll have to figure out a video source to try or the video detect diode may be bad. But I fear that the L6 may have been fooled with because inside looks like it has been turned but I do get something on the screen but can’t make out if it’s a distorted image it changes using the fine tune and it comes close. I still have sound. If L6 was turned from what I see on the screen then it may not be to far out. And b+ voltages are good now since I changed the damper.

If you do indeed have stable HV, (congrats on that! ) , you should now try what both I and EM has suggested, feed in a composite video signal to Point B, from a VCR or DVD, through a isolation film cap of .01 or so, the level will be lower than the set needs, but you should see something, and be able to get lock, also, removing the 3rd if tube V3 when you try this, don't focus on sound or getting a signal in from the tuner yet, see how it looks with video input, then go froward from there.

The input at point B is based on this, https://antiqueradio.org/A-V_AdapterForVintageTVs.htm
I used this for reference several times, as when the status of the tuner/ IF is unknown, I have always used video input as a starting point.

Ok it worked out good so now the video amp and output works so now I’m looking at possibly the 1n60 or L6 was touched.

Good! Very good! :)
That means everything from that point forward is OK, including color.
Now all back from that point should be looked at, like the resistors in the IF, especially the ones on the cathodes, they love to drift out of tolerance the most for some reason, and yes, sometimes the detector diode does go bad.

You mean the resistors going to ground.

Yes, realistically, all of them should be checked to see if they are still in tolerance, but I have seen that the lower value ones on the cathodes are the ones that tend to drift the most in sets, this may not be the case here, but I have seen this 85% of the time, and it's always good to check for this, as if resistors are out of tol in the IF, it will make tuning in things nearly impossible.

Ok well I’m off to finding bad resistors hopefully and not the video detect diode which is almost impossible to reach. I was a bit amazed at how decent the picture was. These resistors I should check are off each IF tube ?

You will just have to hunt around, there is no telling, for example, the RCA CTC-16s had a bad habit with faulty R48 (150K) R50 (180K), and a few others, my rca 630ts clone had all bad 39 ohm cathode resistors in the IF, same with the Stromberg Carlson TV I did, 47 ohm as did the Arvin, which also had 47 ohm on the cathodes.
It seemed more than coincidence that they had bad resistors in the same places more or less.

Well I went over all resistors on all 3 IF tubes and the only one on 2 was a 1.6k that measured 2k that’s it. Is it likely that a disc to ground may be bad ? I still have a hunch that L6 may have been touched it looks like it was moved looking in the adjustment hole. Do you know how to check a germanium diode get a reading on ohms both ways where one side flashes numbers back and forth. And so again if there is sound then the video rides along so I think I could exclude the tuner.

there is a diode check feature on your meter.
http://www.instrumart.com/assets/uei...nix-manual.pdf
you have to make sure it is diode mode, not sure what button to press but when in the right mode, a diode symbol should be seen on the display.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rj9WpoaX2Gk
how the test is done

there should be easy access via pins 2 and 4 at L6.
diode mode is the only way to really test it.

resistance checks wont tell you anything, in diode check mode, one way should be about .5xx on the meter ( give or take) and the other much higher, as seen in that video.

That diode test is for silicon diodes the one in the set is a germanium diode much different in diode mode the germanium diode does nothing no reading either way but different reading in resistance mode they are very sensitive and I have these diodes and compared mine with the one in the set and I have my doubts that it’s bad. I just thought there was a special way to check.

SI/GER all test the same way, it's selenium ones that you can not use the DVM diode check on.
you should be seeing a voltage difference when you change the leads back and forth.

I don’t see anything in diode mode with a germanium diode that’s why I thought there’s another way to test them.

that can only mean the diode under test is bad, or the meter cant test it, which is unlikely.

If you have a replacement already then try the meter on it, if it does not show a reading, it A) not in the right mode, or B) not able to test diodes for some reason.

they test the same way
https://www.petervis.com/Radios/maki...iode-test.html

just give dif readings.

That is odd I have checked many diodes but not germanium diodes so I don’t know why it won’t check and that article I did see it briefly. I did try it on the diodes I have same result.

Ok I figured it out your right my meter does test them all I had to do was hit the select and it changed to volt.

Great! :D

chances are that the Detector is OK in the set.

what you may end up doing is NOT trusting the tube tester, and getting a whole NOS set of IF tubes, and perhaps Tuner tubes, but that's just a suggestion.

Well I hope the detector is good and I even thought of putting in the old tuner tubes which showed shorts to see what happens and I also tried different IF tubes but still the L6 like I said it looks like it was screwed in and out marks left in the plastic sleeve both top and bottom.

Let's hope that;s not the case, cause if any if them were changed, then the level of difficulty to align it is very VERY high, needing very special equipment and skills to get it right. sweep marker generator + oscilloscope and LOTS of time / experience.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHeWbyFMF8A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1h5zNFvn_U&t=212s

NOT easy

Oh I know I hope not as well.

As of now looks like the diode is infact good it tests just below 3 so that’s good. Now after finding no bad resistors in the 3 If tubes areas I have to figure where to go from here.

As mentioned before, it's best that you have a set of known good (NOS) IF tubes, 2, 6EH7s 1 6EJ7, and new tuner tubes.
And it looks like you have the coil/core type tuner vs the rotary switch type, these type have a bad habit of getting dirty contacts (black), making tuning impossible, the best way most have found to clean them was to remove the tuner cover, and clean them with a pencil eraser and solvent like isopropyl alcohol or the like, until the contacts are bright and shiny, making sure not to leave any bits of eraser behind.
If the tuner has not been cleaned already, there is a good chance that the contacts in there are all black and dirty and a source of trouble.