Sorry....

When doing this, it may be smart to put a 1K or so resistor in series
with pin 2 or 3......

disconnect pins 2, & 3 of L4. Take your tuner subber and ground pin 2 of L4,
and using your coupling cap attache the tuner subber to pin 3 and see if a
signal makes it to the screen..... Without a plate voltage there I'm not sure if
it matters to leave V1 in for this part, or take it out.

..

2 caps in L4 no mica.

Mica caps tend to be more stable than ceramic disc, and since you have already crossed the threshold of no return and removed the caps in L4, might as well put 2 new mica .001 caps in. provided they are up to the voltage rating.

Well I put back pretty much what was in there and it turns out that the 2 micas I got are to big to fit inside the aluminum housing. I got .001 500v and they were just to big.

Taking them in and out like that would have upset any alignment there may have been in the coil, if size was a problem, rather than putting the old ones back, new ones like this may have been better.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...mqNqg61Q%3D%3D

I put 2 new caps in but not the micas.

That clear pic form several posts ago from v2 pin 2 I can’t get back since I changed the 22 ohm resistors which were around 28 ohms. This is what I get wire off L3 v1 pins 2 and 7 and v2 2 and 7. Agc didn’t do anythin

what kind of dialectic disc cap did you put in?

the old ones were Z5U, had a pretty big spike.
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/upl...captypes_1.JPG

i guess the red one was on pin 1 and the yellow RMC on pin 2? RMC= higher voltage.

At this point it don’t matter it’s the same as it was before I changed them and the next step I’ll lift number 4 from the k1 from v1.

NOT A GOOD IDEA!!

Pin 4 of K1 ( test point C / C18) is the ground ref point for that circuit, if removed, it would cause a drastic rise at all other points including the grid of V1.

Ok I’ll leave it and I plug the subber in the chassis and get the same as all before so now I’m left with either L 1 2 3 or 4 as possible culprits.

Maybe unlikely but for all I know the caps at v1 could be bad.

More likely than not, the first few stages are out of tune, be it from age, or from someone messing with it, for some reason or another, it can't pass a signal, and nothing short of someone with an alignment setup can get it back to working the way it should again.

You could try the steps that Squirrel boy mentioned, like on the top of this page, unhooking the primary of L4 to feed in the subber direct, this can help find what is out of tune, however, trying to tune without the right equipment is pretty much impossible, and you pretty much end up making it worse if you try.

At this point you have pretty much confirmed that you do indeed have an IF problem, and the best way forward is to rig for direct A/V input until you can find someone with the correct equipment and knowledge near you to align it, the chances of there being a fault in the IF is low, but there may be, but when alignment is attempted with the right equipment, any faults will be quickly found.

Or if I mark the trap and rotate it left and right and see if I get anything because at this point I’m looking at either the 3 coils before v1 or the trap and if none of this gets any results then possibly the 39pf 800pf 56pf 150pf caps.

V2 already proved to be ok the pic showed this but since changing the 22ohm resistors only 2 of them the video is the same across the board no matter why I do now.