All voltages on v1 and v2 are spot on within 2-3 volts so with that is there anything that would interfere with video getting to the crt I guess what I mean is even though test point b gives video but from point b any possibilities. Let’s say the IF is ok and it’s not out of alignment from v3 and beyond but before test point b.

Do you have ANY signal generator that can cover 40-48 MHz? If so, you can
use that to at least measure reasonably well the IF response. You just need to
get bias boxes that can generate a couple of fixed AGC voltages in the proper
range. Then just scan the generator by hand looking at an (analog) voltmeter
on the detector output. Start at the last IF grid and work back.

I have aligned TV sets using this method which is slow, but works. Do note that
the shape of the response curve does change with AGC bias level, due to
change in plate impedance with current, even for pentodes.

Note that you can measure the frequency of the generator by measuring
the second harmonic with an FM tuner, at least above say. You could even use
the second harmonic of the oscillator of a SW radio!

Maybe this subber I have is not compatible with this set or maybe the subber is not working right it is old. Maybe this set needs its own tuner in the beginning I had video that looked like it had to be fine tuned so I took the tuner cover off to find channel 3 slug was bottomed out so I fixed that and got what I got but since then I get little to nothing from the tuner so there are resistors in the tuner that can go bad. I get little more from the subber but don’t know for sure if the subber is working right.

The subber is universal and will work well with any 45mhz IF setup, where resistors in the tuner can change, it is not very often that they drift so far as to make it not work, and it often causes more harm to try to go in and replace them over leaving them alone.

Some of of the resistors in the tuner in my FADA was more than 30% off but it still works.

Problem is I’m assuming that this subber is working properly for all I know this subber could have bad resistors among other things and who knows it my not be tuned for 45mhz due to age I really don’t know. But the sets tuner had worked a lot better but now it’s like it’s dead.

the subber is all solid state, it is very very unlikely that it is faulty, 95% chance of it being fine.

there is resistance checks for the tube sockets of the tuner listed in the SAMS you can try, and if chan 3 does not work, try 4.

I thought other then channel 3 and 2 was the next And the voltages are pretty much on the money both v1 and v2 and I believe I went over the resistance checks for all 3 tube sockets and they were good except for v1 pin 8 all the rest were good.

The subber I have says it works with 40mhz don’t know if that’s ok for this Motorola

There are 2 types of general IF strips in US televisions.

The older type found in many black and white sets 25.5hmz (20mhz shortened ) or 45.75 mhz (40mhz shortened )which came out when color sets hit , many BW sets were also upgraded to 40mhz as well.

Again the tuner subber is compatible with all US color sets, 45.75 mhz (40mhz) and BW sets with 45.75 mhz IF strips.

So I tried something I marked each turn and position as I tried on each coil v123 and what I found was I started at v3 and half turn in the video It had started to fade then back to original position then half turn out same results and I got the same result from the other 2 so if I had to guess I would say that they are where they should be. So as everyone states ceramic caps don’t go bad I believe they do although it maybe rare but since the subber is not getting nice video I have to wonder what else am I missing the voltages are really good at v1 and 2. With sound upon making these turns on the coils the sounds starts to fade as well so there all back where they were before I touched it. So now it’s going to take alot of coffee to think where to go now.

I think it’s very odd that the little video I get from v2 and the sense of having an antenna on with the tuner plug pulled from the chassis the IF is totally dead no video from v2. I can’t see what the tuner is doing for the IF at this point pin 3 of the tuner plug says .4v when I measured pin 3 it was .13v so maybe this tuner is creating big problems for the IF I have to look into anything at this point. The other pins have a ground and 130v 145v and filament for the light.

Unfortunately, the way the coils all interact with each other, trying to do it visually and not following the set procedure normally does not get any improvement.

Like I mentioned, it took me 3 tries ( and many hours) to correctly align my ARVIN 9219-cm-uhf BW TV, and yours is MUCH more complex.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXrOPvrDdzY

Well I don’t know why I lose video and any activity I have just by pulling the tuner plug out of the chassis and the rf plug is out already the tuner should have no change in the video with the subber being used if I plug the tuner back in I get activity

Take a look at the power plug for the tuner, namely pin 5, B+ source 2, this is sourced from 145v which also powers the V7 Sound Det, you have already seen how a faulty Sound Det can overload the 3rd IF and kill video, it is likely that this circuit is dependent on the tuner being connected for it to have the right load to have the correct voltage at the end of the string, w/o the tuner, the 130v goes too high and the Sound Det kills the 3rd IF, unhooking the tuner AGC line may also have an effect as well.

I can see how it would affect the sound which I’m not worried about sound and how is that it would kill the third IF it should just kill the audio. And there is supposed to be a .4v source coming from the tuner and it’s .13v that’s not right