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GORGEOUS RCA CTC-16 Console on eBay!!!!
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/17563111383...&segname=11051
My God what a beautiful thing. From the photos, it looks to be in fantastic condition. I just can't justify the expense or spare the space right now but what a fantastic opportunity. Maybe the ETF would be interested??? It's an hour and a half drive for me but my marriage would be severely strained. The mahogany crotch panels on the cabinet doors are beautiful and they're pocket doors to boot! |
Sorry...it's a KCS-25 chassis not a CTC-16
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they are already asking too much for it :O
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It would depend on how good the 10BP4 is I guess, and the FBT & power transformer to a lesser degree, yes, agreed a good exterior can fetch a decent price, but as the CRTs become more unobtainium, that will be the first thing I tend to look at, I was lucky with my fada 895 cause I knew it sat for 30+ years idle and the 12LP4 in it would be very strong.
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Oh please…you’re killing me. I bought a NOS 10BP4 from the ETM CRT list! I’m so tempted but I can’t I can’t I can’t!
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All the parts in the TV are common and easy to get including the 10BP4 so don't let that stop you :D
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You need to go an ETF swapmeet. That list is only the museum's inventory. Individual sellers have a bunch.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6f6ae8f3_c.jpg |
If it wasn't a 1300 mile drive from here, I'd would think about doing it some time!
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Wow. Got the 10BP4…need a 12JP4 for The Doghouse! Also need a 17DKP4. Do these rarer tubes ever turn up in decent condition with any regularity? I’d also love to find a new or close to new 17 inch for the Predicta. I’d open the bank account for that one and the 12JP4!!!!!!
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Are you sure you want a 12JP4? Remember it has no ion trap and will develop an ion burn. I'd suggest going with a 12QP4 to avoid this. 12LP4, 12KP4 or similar might be possible, but they have a different anode connector and are longer. https://live.staticflickr.com/542/31...0c520182_z.jpg |
Wow...same melt on mine. What a mess. Yes, I saw some threads regarding the 12QP4 substitution. Are the required changes fairly simple? FYI I have the Predicta tube wrong. The Princess is the 21" version so I will need to source a 21EAP4
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The Princess, Debutante and Siesta have a 17" screen. Holiday, Pedestal and Tandem are 21" If you need a 21", you are much, much better off with a 21FDP4 (or equivalent) than the original, flawed 21EAP4. |
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The only 21" table set is the wood cabinet Holiday model. The only way a 21" Princess exists is if an owner swapped a Holiday or console headshell onto a princess (the top halves of the swivel collars and electrical connections are the same so the swap only requires 1 screw and 4 wire connectors be interacted with). Philco never sold a 21" princess new. |
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I believe they made a 21" Princess model in Brazil. I don't think the 21" head will fit on a Princess cabinet. The CRT also has different specs.
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Oh dear Lord what a mess I've made! I need to not post these things when I'm not fully engaged! This is what I bought. It does have a 21 inch 21EAP4
Philco Predicta TV Holiday In Mahogany G4242 I'm just looking for a straight substitute but I have heard the cathode emissions on these prematurely fail. So Bob, you're saying a 21FDP4 or equivalent would be the best way to go??? |
Never underestimate the power of kludge! :)
In the HS electronics lab, I bodged a 21 inch screen onto a 19 inch RCA tv using some old 2x4s I found laying around, it was literally an open chassis stuck on to the back of a frame holding the picture tube, but it worked! :D |
LOL! :P
I'm starting to remember that crazy set now, it was a insane mishmash of what ever I found laying around, 21 inch BW, with a RCA chassis, it sat on my dresser, but I could control it from my bed, as I took the remote control servo motors from another dead set I found and tacked them to volume (on/off) brightness, tint & channel controls and had a long multi wire run to my bedside with all the buttons for it, it was truly a Rube Goldberg machine! I used it until I was able to find my first color set. |
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As for CRT compatibility the only difference is heater voltage. A series chassis doesn't even notice that, but a parallel heater chassis like the princess can be adjusted to compensate...In the princess and the similar chassis in the continental console all you have to do to compensate for a different heater voltage is swap the heater hot lead between the 2V tap and the 6V tap on the power transformer. I've ran 17" headshells as test jigs for 21" chassis before so this can be done. |
Running the 2.35 volt filament using the 2.68 volt tap would be fine. I was thinking more about all the other stuff like the yoke impedance and connector pinouts.
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https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/1/12JP4.pdf https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/1/12QP4.pdf |
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