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Sylvania 21C529 Halolight
I just acquired one of these interesting sets from 1959. It's a member of the Sylvania Halolight line made from around 1953 into the 60s. The idea was having a dim, diffused lift halo around the screen would reduce eyestrain.
This particular version also made use of the new 110 degree short necked CRTs to create a slim set with nifty styling. It also features a spring-loaded hideaway control panel. The circuit design and tube lineup is quite similar to the Philco Predicta produced in the same era. The lower chassis had dislodged and there are some ugly old repairs so I'm not going to attempt a power up until I go over everything. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6f95078b_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e19916e6_c.jpg 21CQP4 first gen 110 degree CRT. This is going to be fun :D https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5c10d4ca_c.jpg The tuner features a lever operated latching ratchet system. I do not know what the 'picture prompter' is yet. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f26730f3_c.jpg Controls hidden from view https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...91ac4bda_c.jpg [PostsMerging] Added 6 min 4 sec later [/PostsMerging] Some periods ads https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fa313b19_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...759321cd_c.jpg |
This will be interesting!
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Rebuilt Channel Master 21CQP4 tests like new.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a7fdd9f4_c.jpg Someone didn't like the halolight as it's unplugged. Seems I have the model variation that lacks a dimmer control. That nearby switch might also turn it off or it could be two brightness levels. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...009a43e4_c.jpg |
I remember... the sylvania superset commercials, keeps on wining and winning and winning :D
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Thanks for the advice. I see what you mean about that ground strap. It's actually easy to get the sweep chassis out.
Undo the ground strap, disconnect CRT and yoke plugs and remove one screw. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2e0d3807_c.jpg What I really find curious is the tube lineup. The Sams service info shows a 6CG7 horizontal oscillator tube down there which makes sense However, this version has a 10DE7 vertical tube down there while the 6CG7 is up top with the sync and video out tubes. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...55d0a9a6_c.jpg I had been wondering where the electrolytics caps were hiding. Found them! That's one big ass cap. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...88792646_c.jpg Loads of gooey wax caps to replace. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e5a70076_c.jpg Clearly some work had been done. Seleniums have been replaced with solid state diodes and there are a couple Sprague Atoms. I'm thinking early 80s? https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b2d6a460_c.jpg Finally, here's the tiny flyback. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...27c82a68_c.jpg |
It's been quite a struggle to find accurate service info. I thought I got lucky when I found original Sylvania service info in Riders vol 24, but it's incomplete.
Nothing seems to quite match exactly but I think I finally have a plan of attack. The schematic from Riders is easy to read and matches, while the photos from Sams 472-1 match my component layout. The cap mounted on the top of the chassis in particular https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...111abc9b_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ba2fef16_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b0b1e229_c.jpg With this knowledge in hand, I'll undo some of the modifications and clean it up. There are a few oddball valued and high voltage caps I had to order. 0.0056uF @ 1,600 volts for example. They'll be here in a few days. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...48de5128_c.jpg Meanwhile, I took out the upper chassis. Quite easy to do. * Pull the knobs * Disconnect the speakers * Remove 3 screws * Carefully slide it out https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ac1bdba8_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3b319803_c.jpg The PCB is in great shape with no lifted traces. I'll try my Hakko desoldering on it. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e37576af_c.jpg |
I have one of those from 1957.
But now I am seeking someone to help me with the electronic restoration of my 1957 Kuba Komet! |
Great thread, I sold one I had in much worse condition with original CRT. Advertising is superb. GTE knew how to market their products.
Easy on those traces, not "solid copper" like an RCA.:scratch2: |
Hakko FR-301 is making quick work of recapping the board. No issues with lifted traces.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...039b20b9_c.jpg |
Have the same unit. Using it on the frequency counter board on thee HP8000 to free up and cleanup the mess around the replaced 16 pin chips. The heat control is very precise and allows me to dial it in so I don't damage the traces or the components. It wasn't cheap but it's well worth it for work like this.
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Do I see only one screw also to remove the CRT??
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Oh yeah, it sure looks like it.
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I'm just about ready for a first power up. Here's what I've done so far.
Power supply / sweep chassis has been full recapped, more modern fuse holder installed and huge resistive filament dropper replaced with diode + thermistor. I used a high quality, pulse rated polypropylene cap for the horizontal yoke winding coupling cap. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...28471c2b_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...23ba5a6c_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9eca455d_c.jpg Upper chassis is just about ready as well. Only challenge so far was replacing the 5AQ5 tube socket. The original plastic socket has disintegrated but, luckily, I had a NOS drop-in replacement handy. It even had a notch to accept the tube shield :) https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...106db710_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2b07ef7f_c.jpg |
I lugged the set down into the basement. Awkward cabinet to move. Very front heavy and not much to hold on to.
I'm also pretty sure the legs are on backwards. The service info shows the legs protruding in the front to line up with the bezel. That makes a lot more sense and I'll try to flip them around. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3984ecfe_c.jpg CRT is absolutely filthy. I'll unmount and clean the face + bezel after I get it working. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...878c402f_c.jpg Finally, time for a first power up and it just sprang to life! https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ab6e8b9f_c.jpg After some tweaks. Do you prefer with or without the halo? https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b7237cc9_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d8a291e1_z.jpg After a few more tweaks. Image quality is fair, sound is fine. The fine tuning knob is stuck or maybe I just don't know how it works? To be continued... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3f9b6b12_c.jpg |
Here's some actual programming. Very watchable.
Very bright spot when turned off. I've seen this damage the phosphor eventually - even when aluminized. Would like to install a spot killer modification. Anyone know of a circuit? https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a1ed630d_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...47a783d2_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...77c72916_c.jpg |
To answer your question, prefer with the halo for historical reasons if nothing else, but wonder if it can be dimmed down a bit.
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Not with this model. It's on or off
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Mine does have a dimmer but I think the halo tube is weak as it only somewhat works on high. (Increasing line voltage helps the halo but I don't like doing that to the chassis.)
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I started doing some cosmetic work starting with flipping the legs around. Much, much more stable now!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c9aa1cfb_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8d614106_c.jpg OZ cream polish did a great job on the cabinet. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8fe7f75d_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8294282e_c.jpg Now, I'm trying to get the screen bezel off for cleaning. There is a clearly visible screw in each corner. After removing them, it's very loose but hung up on something at the top in the middle. I can't see any fastener on the inside of the cabinet. Ah-ha, found this in the service info. Apparently, you remove the bezel by pulling some trim off. That explains why there is a break in the bottom trim and a gap on the right. Sounds like the trim should slide to the right and something I'm missing goes in the middle https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...01b01684_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a771c23a_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...21378380_z.jpg |
Finally! It's like one of those sliding puzzles where one tile is missing. The key is to slide that bottom piece over far enough to the right to allow this corner piece to come out.
Then slide the left down enough to remove the corner brace in the upper-left. Then, slide the entire top strip off to the left. Then, slide the left trim up and off. Repeat on the other side. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...276f422f_c.jpg Here's the halo tube revealed. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4aeab3ef_c.jpg Now we can also see the CRT face is pristine. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...80ce68fe_c.jpg Wish I could say the same about the plastic safety cover. Time to start polishing. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0a0d70e0_c.jpg |
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Hmm, strange place to find some oregano :beatnik:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...603d4392_c.jpg Turns out you have to unmount the CRT to get the front bezel off. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cc9d40cf_c.jpg Now, I can finally get at that loose grille cloth. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...89c4113a_c.jpg |
I'm using GC Electronics service cement and some clamps to reaffix the separating grill cloth backing board.
I was also finally able to free up the fine tuning control. A rubber washer had fused to the plastic gear. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...620261df_c.jpg |
Very nice Bob. That OZ cream polish did a NICE job... I think I'll try some on my Philco. I'm still trying to wrap my head around what they did on these sets. It's a photo finish style "veneer" but looks to be covered in lacquer as there's some fine crazing here and there.
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Bob is a machine. I don't know where, with a full time job, he gets the time to do quality work. Anyone can do a resurrection and send it out the door in working condition but these TVs are restored to a very high standard. He must have cloned himself somehow.
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Putting it all back together starting with the CRT and polished screen cover. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a0d41eb1_c.jpg |
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I do recall a circuit that used a separate set of switch contacts to either ground G1 or to break connection to the cathode if grounded, varies with type of video to CRT. I would personally connect a LV relay that is powered by the filament string, or 120vac coil relay if series heater. |
Just a non hijacking comment if I may...Dave, you're about an hour drive from me! I don't think there's a VK member closer.
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[QUOTE=bandersen;3263850]I know what you mean. Possible some early type of acrylic or polyurethane?
Looking forward to the update video. As far as the coatings, I plan to perform a test to see if it's lacquer or something else. Hard to believe it is lacquer, as you'd think it would make the photo finish look like the neighbor in the movie "Something about Mary" In the mean time, I looked at reviews of that OZ polish and ordered some. Looks like good stuff |
LOL, yes OZ is great and one of my "go to" products for cabinets.
Finally got the front all back together! Even though I now know the tricks to getting it apart, not something I'd fancy doing again. I found a rubber eraser to be quite effective in cleaning marks off the textured plastic surface of the screen surround. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0c422ed1_c.jpg Here's a better look at the floating screen effect. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c2386b60_c.jpg Now I wonder what the little missing trim piece in the middle looked like? https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...01811ef9_c.jpg |
I would think the trim piece in the middle would just have been the same material just as an overlay trim piece. Maybe you could find a small sheet of similar material and use a vice as a brake to form a replacement. And man, that Novus did a nice job on the screen protector
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Here's a pic showing the missing piece.
https://www.facebook.com/southavetre...7089442149978/ |
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Bob has patience of a saint with this set PLUS it's a desirable model worth a good methodical video (only by Bob) considering bizarre design features he has run into.:thmbsp: I got this same model for 40 bucks but passed it on to a younger more enthusiastic collector - OSx in Buffalo (a homecoming?), who brought me ETF sets one year. The cosmetics were similar too, missing tuner knobs* and weak CRT. A gassy damper tube was the obvious final failure. *stuck on the only VHF channel around - 8, a true barn find. My first experience with this chassis design was a 21" (non-halo) floor model with its swivel base cut off, that had that same funky tuner and the 10DE7 was downstairs, not the 6CG7. I have since had the 17-inch versions: a Sylvania "black knight" and RCA-branded ones with sylvania-made, RCA branded tubes in metal cabinets grace my bench. I had one restored then it lost V sweep during "burn-in", pretty sure its tin whiskers in V hgt pot. |
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f9a85811_z.jpg |
I've been watching this set a lot the past couple weeks. I'm really impressed with the image and sound quality.
Yes, the halolight is gimmicky but I kinda like it. Certainly grabs attention. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2f79d3ec_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b4604049_c.jpg |
Nice.
Just curious, what is your source for the Lost In Space videos? Is it color or B&W? |
MeTV live using an over the air converter box
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