Philco in Westinghouse clothing
 

The cabinet and label say Westinghouse, but they can't trick me -- I know a Philco 48-1001 when I see one!

http://antiqueradio.org/art/temp/TVOpen.jpg

http://antiqueradio.org/art/temp/TVClosed.jpg

http://antiqueradio.org/art/temp/Wes...rtyChassis.jpg

The knobs are a giveaway. Oh, and the 48-1001 stamped on the chassis :)

The last thing I need is another skanky 10-inch set, especially one full of those annoying loktal tubes. What was I thinking?!? Oh well, at least it was cheap.

Phil

Nice! :banana::banana::banana: Does it have Ch 1 on the tuner?

jr

Kewl...If they'd made TVs around the turn of the century, they'd a-looked like THAT, no doubt...

Count me in as a nonfan of locktals. The very first Philco I ever worked on had these, and me with my new tube tester, I put the first tube in the proper socket and...pssssshhhhh! I had broken my first vacuum tube! I guess those tiny pins got torqued just enough to break something in the base. No wonder they didn't last.

I'm curious too. My Philco 49-1040 with a similar chassis does which I find bizarre.

Count me in as a nonfan of locktals too. I found that neither the tube base or sockets hold up well.

I like any kinda oddball...so I actually kinda like loktals. But I bet having to deal with a bad socket one time would cure me. Biggest annoyance for me is the ink they used for labeling didn't hold up.

No channel 1, sorrry.

Not sure what to call this cabinet style -- maybe "middleboy." Kinda high for your classic lowboy, a bit low for a highboy.

This one's far down in the project list. The chassis is a lot grubbier than it looks in that brightly lit photo. Think cigars and fried chicken.

Phil

Can I be the 3rd Loctal hater? :D

I was faced with finding a pair of 7N7's for my set, but instead I ripped out the sockets to replace them with octal so I could use 6SN7's. Worked out well, set has a super sharp picture.

I like them too, but they do require more care in handling.

John

Hey, can I be a devil's advocate here? Isn't part of the reason we do this (to borrow a phrase from JFK) "not because it is easy, but because it is hard"? Who among us hasn't spent hours and hours refinishing, repairing, fabricating a part that at one time could have been easily purchased new for a couple of dollars? Easier still than replacing 6SN7s: buy a new POS Chinese TV. Just kidding! (says the guy with sets full of loktals, octals and mouse nests.)

--Dave

Good to know that a 6SN7 will work ok... I am working on a vertical problem in my Philco 51-T1634, and the 7N7 appeared to be bad, but it was socket corrosion. I ordered some de-ox-it. I hope that I do not have to replace the socket, but if I do, a 6SN7 may appear in that circuit.:scratch2:
Do you have 2 7N7s in your set? ... the Horiz osc in mine is a 6SN7.

PS: I do not HATE loktals, I just don't have very many, and it is sometimes difficult to figure out the type, since most of the lettering has rubbed off.:tears:

jr

To be honest, I've not had major problems with loktals, unless you count having trouble pulling one out from a very cramped space in a portable. They just seem so danged cheap. Such considerations fade once a set is working and back in its cabinet, though.

Couldn't resist peeking under the chassis. I counted more than 20 bumblebees and Black Beauties, which makes me think someone went through it a while back. There are still a number of paper caps, too.

Phil

It might be all original. I have several 1949-1950 Philco's and they all have bumblebees in them. For example, here's my 49-1040. I think Eric has one that looked similar.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3476/...48cdbd70_b.jpg

Thanks, it suits me better if they're original. I prefer a set that was left alone, over one that was overhauled and may contain little surprises.

Phil

One like it in Minnesota sold last month:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT