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I tested the CRT in this CTC-9A and it tests zero emission on any gun. You may remember it has a brightener on it. So, I thought that I must not be using the CR70 correctly. Next to this set is the CTC-28 that belonged to mom and dad. That one tests a red gun that takes a while to get into the cut-off area but good emission and the blue and green test very good.
I went out to the shed. The tube there looks exactly like the one in this set but does not have any markings that I can read. However, being outside may have removed any marks that were not hot stamped into the bakelite base.
I tested it. It tests NOS on all guns. Great! I did notice a scratch in the face that I had forgotten. Oh well, it should work well.
Tested all tubes. Some were weak, some were leaky HK shorts etc. I had most of them. One had a crack and went to air (6AQ5A), the 1V2 had an open filament and so on. And to my amazement, the Horizontal Output tubes reads new. In the mean time, I did get two NOS GE HO tubes for a song. One labeled Zenith but GE, the other a GE. Even the font of the printing of the number on the box is identical. Just more confirmation that Zenith never made receiving tubes, just CRTs.
I ordered the capacitors to stuff the filters. While I have most capacitors for doing sets, this guy uses some odd values and I didn't want a mess. I got good 105˚ electrolytics with 10,000 hours life expectancy. With buying about twice what I needed, it still was only $28.00 or so. I never buy one cap if I need one cap. You always need another one later; you may mess it up; shipping two cost no more than one and the most expensive one was less than $4. I will restuff before any power up since the power fuse is blown. I will also change the fuse holder to the conventional one instead of one that uses the bayonet fuses. I am not that much into authenticity but the can caps will be stuffed.
I think I will swap out the CRT before I try to apply power. Since the "original" CRT (which was an RCA replacement) reads absolute zero emission even with 8 volts on the filaments, why bother with the old one. Suggestions/Comments?
Inside of the HV cage, the 6BK4 shunt regulator has some stuff wrapped around the lead and cap. Looks like putty. Corona putty? Maybe it was arcing? Also, the HV rectifier socket mount, the clear plastic bowl part has been melted a little by heat from the regulator. Might need to find one eventually?
Under the chassis shows only a couple repairs. 97.5% original. Most of the caps are epoxy dipped so some may be still temporarily OK for an early power up before replacement. But they will all be replaced eventually. Guess I am getting curious.
News at 11...
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