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Originally Posted by YamahaFreak
Okay, so to test the exposed traces, with the TV unplugged, I put my negative probe on that center metal plate and test each trace on the buffer boards that I can with the positive probe? What should my meter be set to, and what should a correct reading be?
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Yeah, that's the idea. It shouldn't really matter which way around you put the probes either, you are just looking for very low resistance ones that are basically shorted. Probably use your lowest ohms range... They should be essentially infinite to both the Yout and GND if they are good and are usually down right close to 0 ohms if they are blown shorted (under 100 ohms is usually about where most continuity test modes beep). When they short they generally short to Yout but why not check to both for good measure. Don't be surprised if you
don't find any shorts, I expect your buffer chips are all just fine.
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I acquired some solder wick today, too. (RatShack apparently calls it 'desoldering braid'.) Should I go ahead and remove the blown SUS IPM or is there anything else I should do before removing it?
I found Coppell's stuff online and on eBay, but I haven't yet verified which IPM is the correct one. I assume the part number is on the IPM itself and thus will be unreadable until I desolder it?
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No, I think so far it looks like everything else is checking out fine for you so I would probably go ahead and desolder that IPM so you can see the part number on it, I don't know what it should be on that model since I've never worked on one.
If you're lucky it will be one of the ones that is potted with clear goop on the back and you'll be able to see where it blew itself to smitherines. If there is carbon blast on the board from the mini-explosion, clean that off well once you get the IPM off, too, of course.
A little patience and some desoldering braid should get that sucker right off of there without too much grief. It does take some heat to melt that lead free solder but you shouldn't have too much difficulty. Again, feeding in some lead/tin solder to mix with it really helps lower the melting point and makes the job easier if your iron isn't galactic-temperature-hot.
Good luck!