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yes yoke should be connected, its needed for the HV to work.
keep the brightness turned down just in case it comes on strong but does not have vert sweep etc.. to avoid a burn.
They are really not that hard to work on AFTER you get thru the learning curve on how to remove the PCB etc.
I like the modular construction since it takes up a min of bench space.
If it was on my bench I would do another base line test, then if still no go, do the full on pull the pcb up and make sure all caps have been replaced (film type), check traces closely, check tube sockets closely, leave the networks alone for now, try it out again.
On mine I found it fairly easy to remove 4 or 5 wire wraps and then you could unsolder from the stakes. Bob has done more, his technique of complete removal makes access that much easier, just depends on how comfortable you are working on it.
I have worked on a few, the much networks never gave me a problem, but that does not mean they never have issues, I just prefer to see if it will work with them in place before attempting to make my own. Some of them look like they could be checked if need be.
checking the HV with the neon is real quick and a fast test.
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