It is labeled Horizontal efficiency in some sets, H linearity in others. Sams horizontal adjustment procedure and schematic should list max safe current and how to adjust....Skip the osc. adjustment and the more complex HV reg adjustments unless the current can't be reduced, or those stages show signs of misadjustment.
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Originally Posted by roundscreen
You are right. The cathode current must be adjusted for proper dip. If this is not done, The current will run high no matter what the line voltage is. Still, Why beat on the set if you don't have too. He want's to use the set as a daily driver and the variac will give him some added protection. Running the set at the line voltage it is rated at.
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I'm not telling him to beat up his set, just noting my observation that MY set that has been in regular often heavy use since I restored it has done fine without any line input voltage control....Heck the cathode current was running WELL below the max safe value when adjusted running on high line voltage.
In many places the line voltage fluctuates so if you truly want to get OCD on line voltage get a VRT/saturable reactor/(insert other aliases for it here) isolation transformer that puts out a constant 120V, and buck that down......
I've been approaching that setup recently. The place I've lived in for the last few years has intermittent sudden brief and rapidly reoccurring voltage dips that cause highly annoying blooming. I've been using a 120V out VRT to regulate out these dips, and on the '71 Zenith I've been using it on I've been contemplating using a variac or bucking transformer with it so I can dial in the vertical over scan to minimum.
IMHO the best way to power a low voltage DC fan in a TV set is to connect a bridge rectifier to the heaters and a filter cap to the bridge. Then depending on the DC voltage it puts out how quiet the fan needs to be and the air flow desired select either a 5 or 12V fan.