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Pretty sure I ran mine without the HV reg for a few seconds....it arced to the HV cage when the HV came up and I shut it down as quickly as I could...
I suppose I could run that test for 5 sec After HV comes up from cold and it would probably not hurt for that brief of a run, but more than that is a risk I'd never take.
Nominal line voltage when these were new was 117V, and much above 120V was rare...the engineers that made this would have advised contacting your utility or adding a stepdown transformer to reduce line voltage if you had 130V at your outlets in 1954....heck this set draws enough current that copper losses in household wiring drop the voltage at the outlet a bit when one of these is running so you would have to have an even more implausibly high line voltage with nothing major plugged in to have 130V with it on.
Also engineers assumed in absolute worst case scenarios for the support life of the set (10-20 years after production) if you blew the fly a new one could be ordered.... that time is passed so we should be running these for longevity rather than the bleeding edge of what the design is capable of.
These sets performed excellent when perfectly adjusted to stock specifications. Going beyond stock in a manner that increases the risk of destroying unobtainable parts on a set that is highly desirable and of which only 40 examples are known is not going to be met with encouragement (and acceptance may be a stretch) from a community dedicated to preservation no matter how hard you try to justify it...
Increasing the HV only really does 3 things: 1.) Increase the brightness, 2.) Reduce width and height of deflection a bit, 3.) Change optimal focus and gun bias setting points. 1 should not be necessary since you are using a brighter later production all glass tube. The other 2 are not necessary either and can be achieved with minor adjustment to the deflection circuits and such.
With some effort you should be able to achieve an identical picture a tad less bright at the correct HV spec... rather than turning it up to 11 to try and somehow brute force better picture out of it, why not instead challenge yourself to dial it in to look right at 25-27KV and maybe reduce your room lighting so it seems just as bright?
Granted with the incorrect flyback and other random modifications maybe there is no sense trying to make it reliable anymore and you have introduced design changes that doom it to failure...If that is the case and you don't mind it dying irreparably by all means run it till it dies. Given you've held on to it this long one would imagine you'd want to see it still around after you check out, but what you do with it is your business.... rubbing what, to everyone else here, is dangerous mis-treatment of a rare piece of history in our faces when we have repeatedly explained this and tried to convince you not to, comes across as trolling at this point.
No emotion is present in this and no insult is meant just my appraisal of the situation.
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