Quote:
Originally Posted by Penthode
Well I have seen a bunch fail in service. And many have not passed the reforming process and test before putting into service. You have not explained what your criterion is. Instead you trash my observations.
And as as this to me is purely a hobby, if the component fails in service, it provides further enjoyment pulling the thing apart to service it because it is my hobby.
Maybe some of us should stop to reflect and chill out.
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The process is simple: unsolder positive lead(s) of capacitor connect cap to Heathkit C3, check capacitance and if not open check leakage indication on tester at 50V if good select next higher range,if bad wait 2 minutes for signs of improvement if no change in reading or improvement stops change capacitor, if leakage drops to acceptible select higher voltage test range. If a capacitor tests as having acceptible leakage at full working voltage it gets ran in set for several hours and checked for temperature and possibly leakage again later.
Any more than this is well in excess of my patience, and after doing this process for a few years worth of restos I have stopped as I have come to the conclusion that it is a complete waste of my time over changing all capacitors of a type I know are prone to failure....on any chassis mount lytics once the positive is unhooked it is quicker to solder in a new part, the new parts are cheaper than the time I spend on a reforming, and the guarantee that a new production part isn't going to take out unobtainium for better than 25 years is worth more to me than original parts. I'm keeping the original tube circuits in and not shit canning them to install a flat screen and I usually keep the original removed caps in a bag with the set with a copy of the schematic and enough documentation that any future historian could analyze the original design and parts and put it back to stock if they wanted. That is as original as a working set has to be for me.