Quote:
Originally Posted by Notimetolooz
Some of Japan has 100V and other parts have 110V. Originally it was all 100V.
Due to all the destruction of WWII and the help re-bulding the US did afterward, the new electrical generation in some area followed the US standard of the time. Another aspect is that the 100V system runs at 50Hz and the 110V system runs at 60Hz.
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I’ve known about the frequency difference for a while but never voltage. It is my understanding they were always 100 volts. Admittedly this is a difficult subject to research but from my cursory investigation I can’t find any sites claiming they ever used 110, do you have links to a place discussing that?
Anyway I’ve made lots of progress on recapping today. I got all of the paper caps on the underside of the chassis changed. I spot checked a few of the carbon film resistors and all of them are still basically dead on in value so I do not expect any problems there. I have one more paper cap hiding in the flyback cage to swap out and then I need to figure out what I want to do with the electrolytics.
The doubler cap is obviously bad, it’s leaking out the vent and will be restuffed, but I see no evidence of (physical) leakage in the other caps. And all of the critical sections are demonstrably not shorted as the set still powered up and tried to work albeit with no vertical. I will probably check at the terminals for AC ripple with the set on and figure out if they need to be changed or not from there. But I am happy with the progress so far!
One thing I often come across in these Japanese sets is their tendency to twist component leads together before soldering them down. It cuts down on the amount of wires wrapped around the lugs for sure but can be incredibly irritating when trying to separate a paper cap from good parts…