[Username1]

Hi Guys, It is good o see you have made progress on this set. So If the audio tube is
getting hot and is possibly the current draw, it should be easy to figure out what might
be wrong. First turn it on and hook up a quality audio signal to the volume control,
make sure you put it through a .1 uf cap and see how it sounds... Good quality or not?
Does the audio output transformer measure 930 Ohms? Is there approx 145V on pin 8?
If you are reading .25V on the grid & Center line of the volume control, check out R80,
R81, R82, be sure they are right.
Also there are other goodies to think about., like crudlies on the tube socket pins allowing
little bits of current to flow and give you small voltage at pin 2 the grid to the tube.
I Assume Timmy that your 280ma. at pin 2 is actually .28V small typo.
I Also found I kept making the same typo earlier in this thread saying 380ma. for the
power supply current, when it's actually 580ma, as others have correctly written......
Also you should be able to ground pin 2 without causing any harm, and see if the tube
runs cooler, & Your PS voltages return to normal.....

I'm a big fan of voltages being pretty close to what the schematic says, but .25V is kinda
small for that spot.

As it is, when you run the set do you get sound, or snow from the sound when you turn
up the volume ? does it sound like it should? Clear not distorted?

Also remember single tube audio output circuits like that are Class A Amplifiers, so the tube
is biased on anyway, and always, otherwise you would hear distorted sound as each
sound would be turning the tube on and off all the time. Class A Amplifiers are always
conducting, and the input signal smoothly changes the grid voltage & smoothly raises, &
lowers plate - cathode current to give you a nice smooth sound.



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