[Username1]

Hi!

A few observations....
1. When the Horiz Output tube in Timmy's set gets red plates, it's most likely due to a
poor horiz drive to G1, from improperly working Horiz Osc. Remember the damper
rectifies the collapsing coil field and makes the current available for use in other circuits.
It may be a good idea to replace it anyway since it does a lot of work.....

2. Timmy states that he adjusts the -45V to the G1's of the Horiz Output Tubes. He does
this with the Horiz. Hold control. By adjusting the frequency the resulting bias on
the G1's of the Horiz Output tubes moves closer to normal. Is it a good thing? Who
knows. - but it should keep the output circuit safe. Best idea would be that when
he feeds a signal to the tv and it gets a picture that locks, after that leave it alone.

3. Yamama suggested that once the tv gets a picture and the HV is normal, PS Voltages
are normal, that Timmy leave it alone for hours and see how long it runs like that. -
I Like that idea a lot! You really need to determine what causes the two states that
this tv operates at, A) Semi-Working, and B) Low HV and Red Plate HV Output tubes...
What causes these 2 states? Is it taking the chassis out? Putting it in?
4. AGC, a normal tv will work without HV fluctuating with an overloaded signal, and
with no signal at all it gets snow, and in both conditions no glowing plates on the
horiz output tubes.....

One thing Timmy needs to do is measure the AGC line voltage when the tv is working
and when it's in its Overheating tube state and see if there is a difference. If so, then
you need to set up a battery that can force that line between the 2 levels and see
if the AGC is the ultimate cause of this TV taking 34 pages to track down this problem.

Could the AGC be causing IF circuit tubes to be drawing too much current? If you are
going to order a new damper tube, then order a Voltmeter with 10A Current scale
too, and get one that is NOT Auto-range, get one that you have to turn the dial to
read 10A, 2A, etc. I'll say it again with a 10A Scale, the resistor inside the meter
is actually a piece of wire with almost 0 ohms, and you will have almost 0 resistance
added to the circuit when you measure 500ma, or 1/2 Amps.


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