Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamamaya42
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I actually Just bought it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M
One thing on the CTC-16 is the jumper wires on the chroma board tend to corrode open and they can kill individual guns and mess with HV regulator behavior...A number of newer chassis also have this and it's something to be aware of.
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Thank you I wasn't aware of that. So I should be able to probe that plug and see if the voltages are missing right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno
Follow JohCT first with isolation on. You can follow almost any delta tube directions. We did the "just gone line" method.
Isolation is for H-K short. When it happens its usually int. When it shorts the bad guns cathode gets pulled to GND. This makes the screen BRITE of that color
with streaks & retrace lines. You can often LIGHTLY tap the CRT neck
to make it come & go.
SO try a set up & see if you can get a B&W raster. If you cant check the
CRT voltages on the K's, G1's & G-2's for next step.
BTW you can make a universal adapter. You need checker
schematic, cable connector, & those hook on test leads. It can check almost
any jug.
73 Zeno
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I don't see any retrace lines, other than being blue it's a good picture. I'm wondering could I turn off all the colors then bring up one color at a time to see if all the guns work?
Quote:
Originally Posted by old_coot88
If that's an isolation brightener and not just 'brightener', there's a chance it was installed due to a heater-cathode short. In any case, you need a decent tester to be sure what you got.
[EDIT.] If the britener has a switch, what position was it in?
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I didn't see a switch, and it looks like it just does isolation not brightening. It would be nice of it was a chassis problem that someone tried to fix with the isolation transformer. Wouldn't the cups the dark if it was shorted? Like wouldn't it need to be a high hour tube?
Also surprisingly the filters didn't really get hot