|
No you should not have to automatically replace those big brown or red shiny ones, reliable compared to paper ones unless you know you already have some symptoms that definitely point to one or it tests bad. The Elemenco ones seem to be a lot higher voltage on mine (1600 volts etc.) so they might be more eligible for replacement but I am not an expert on those. (Well I'm not an expert on ANY of them but ; ) Suspect caps in that set to me would be big black plastic ones with colored bands or tubular paper ones mainly. Especially ones like the smaller tan-colored paper electrolytic at the center of your pic.
You CAN automatically recap the big can electrolytics but I am less likely to do it nowadays the newer the set (like a '56 vs. a '66). You can gradually bring the voltage up on the set with the HV fuse pulled out and go easier on the electrolytic cans and reform them but I have never done that. Check to see if any get warmer than the others, they normally should stay pretty cool.
Unless they are leaking of course, then out they go.
I haven't had any problems with the top hat diodes in my CTC-10s yet but I guess replacing them would be cheap insurance as they can short.
The color crystal should either work, or not, so you don't have to replace it till that is determined. One of mine was dead.
I'd clean the rust off those tube shields at least where they contact the ground springs.
|