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Old 10-04-2006, 11:34 PM
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kx250rider kx250rider is offline
REAL TVs have TUBES!
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Los Angeles & Dallas
Posts: 3,239
Looks like you're on the right track! The vertical issues could definitely be a filter cap, and you should really check all of them again including the 3 big cans. I also see a bad video smear, which could be a cap or other problems (nothing serious, though).

Do you have extend-O-cables so that you can stand the chassis upright on a chair behind the set and run it for testing? If so, you can power the chassis, and do a quick test on all the cans: Use a VTVM (NOT a regular volt/ohmmeter; those won't work for this trick) on the AC scale, set the range for something in the 200 volt area, and with the (-) connected to the chassis, probe each electrolytic section to see that the AC swings up and then down near zero right away. If you see AC voltage more than a few volts staying on any of those sections, that's a leak. Watch for any cans that are NOT chassis grounded, particularly I think theres one with a black paper cover. You have to move your (-) probe to the (-) side of those cans, or you will read funny and could reverse-connect and blow the meter. The above test can be done with a scope if you don't have a VTVM handy, but that's more hassle.

I bet you will find 2 or 3 of the 80 @ 450 caps leaky! I like those chasses, and if you want to haul the chassis up to LA, I will help you on it if I get a free evening. I have a jig with all the adaptors for that set.

BY THE WAY: That's an EARLY model 16. You can't tell it from a CTC-15 from the front. The CTC-12, 15, and 16 are interchangable as long as the control panels match, as I used to swap CTC-16XLs into earlier cabinets when the 12s and 15s would give me problems.

Charles
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Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10
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