Problems with removing picture tube socket...

[H2s04]

If you've seen my past posts about my Magnavox score a few weeks ago, you've seen that awesome one with the vertical controls.

I want to begin cleaning the chassis soon, and I need to disconnect the the picture tube, and OFCOURSE I've run into another one of my Jeff-like problems. I tried approaching this in as gentile a manner as possible, having experienced a similar problem like this about a year ago. When I tried to remove the picture tube socket, I quickyly realized that it was not going to budge, espcially once the bakelite base of the tube began to loosen

So I have two questions:

1. Whats the best way to re-secure the bakelite base? I'm planing on filling the whole thing up with some sort of silicone goop, but im really not sure what to use or how to apply it.

2. How can I remove the socket without breaking any of the pins? I'm guessing I'll have to use some harsh chemical to seperate the pins from the socket. Are there any suggestions about removing it?

Heres a pic of the chassis:

[kc8adu]

slip a thin screwdriver blade between the base and socket.
twist or pry gently and work around till it comes off.
reglue the base with superglue.

[Eric H]

A shot of WD-40 in the socket can help too.

[H2s04]

I would have tried the screw driver technique, but I already tried that once with a 21FJP22, and broke the focus pin. I came extremely close to vomiting

[Chad Hauris]

I just cut the picture tube leads and then re-solder and insulate the splice with heatshrink tubing when the CRT socket is very difficult to get off or appears fragile. This is the absolute safest way to do it if you don't mind the slight defect in appearance of the spliced leads.

Not that I have any experience in removing stuck picture tube sockets, but I'd caution against using a metal screwdriver anywhere near glass.....especially if it has sharp edges. The stress that you can induce is pretty amazing and can cause big time problems (read: cracks=implosion)

*IF* you wish to use something as a prybar then you'd probably be safer with a plastic or soft wood implement.

As far as using WD40, just be sure to wash off the residue after, most of it will evaporate due to it's high content of solvents, but you can never be too sure of what funkiness it may cause electrically.

Anthony (not a fan of WD40)

[kc8adu]

both contact points would be bakelite.
and a spritz of wd or other penetrating oil may help.
i have done this many times and have never lost a tube.
the focus pin on the fj is due to corrosion caused by corona.

Is there some way to protect against that sort of corrosion by using a coating of something like dielectric grease?

Anthony

[Sandy G]

Clarklift (the fork truck people) have this stuff they spray on the battery terminals of electric trucks to keep the terminals from corroding. IWonder if that would work for our usages? -Sandy G.

[Tubejunke]

Go to AutoZone and ask them for a $.99 packet of bulb grease. They will love you for it. They base employee performance on how many of these packets of grease they can push per customer. It is dielectric grease and will work well for the socket. Also WD-40 will not harm anything as far as socket pins. I wouldnt drown anything in it.

[Jeffhs]

Originally posted by H2s04
If you've seen my past posts about my Magnavox score a few weeks ago, you've seen that awesome one with the vertical controls.

I want to begin cleaning the chassis soon, and I need to disconnect the the picture tube, and OFCOURSE I've run into another one of my Jeff-like problems. I tried approaching this in as gentile a manner as possible, having experienced a similar problem like this about a year ago. When I tried to remove the picture tube socket, I quickyly realized that it was not going to budge, espcially once the bakelite base of the tube began to loosen




So I have two questions:

1. Whats the best way to re-secure the bakelite base? I'm planing on filling the whole thing up with some sort of silicone goop, but im really not sure what to use or how to apply it.

2. How can I remove the socket without breaking any of the pins? I'm guessing I'll have to use some harsh chemical to seperate the pins from the socket. Are there any suggestions about removing it?

Heres a pic of the chassis:

Reminds me of when the CRT socket came off the tube in an old Philco I had in the '70s. The cement just crystallized, and the base came off in my hand while I was trying to disconnect the socket from the tube. I mentioned in a previous post how I was able to get the set going again by soldering the leads from the chassis to the wire leads extending from the CRT neck. However, the repair lasted only a couple weeks or so, until one day one of the wires broke off at the CRT neck, the lead fell across a couple other connections (yes, there were sparks--I think one of the leads it shorted to may have been the focus pin since the spark, IIRC, was rather large and healthy, though I wasn't sure then and will never know now, over thirty years later), and of course that put the set out of commission for good.

Just as well, I guess, since we moved a short time later and the Philco, along with about 20 or 30 other old sets I had in the basement (Doug, I thought of you and all those sets you had to move when you moved to your new home, as I was writing this), went out with the trash. I wish there would have been such a thing as AK back in the '70s--if there were, I certainly would have tried to find those sets better homes than the landfill in Cleveland.

Jeff S