Advice on Cabinet Refinishing?

[Winky Dink]

I've been working on a 1931 Airline lowboy for the past 6 months. I recapped, replaced some resistors, rebuilt two rheostats, and repaired the tuning dial. Then I powered it up, and a really strange thing happened--it worked. For me, this is a personal best.

Now I have a beautiful cabinet with a few flaws. I need to replace the top veneer. It has typical plant-watering damage involving more than one-third of the surface. Also the legs and cross pieces need sanding and refinishing. This link should take you to a picture.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I would be most appreciative if someone can tell me where I can find competent guidance. Does someone have a good tutorial on this type of refinishing? I've got lots of questions:

How to remove an 80-year-old veneer--Heat? Chemicals? Chisel?
Where to buy a new veneer?
What adhesive to use?
Can I set this veneer properly by piling 100 pounds of encyclopedias on top of it?
And finally, should I use a wood sealer before staining and what kind of lacquer should I use?

When I finish the project I'm going to invite the previous owner for dinner. He owned the radio since 1950, and I think he'll be quite pleased with the outcome.

Thanks much,
Winky

[Reece]

That's really a nice-looking radio in original condition. Looks like the rest of the radio might just need some minor touch up with stain and polish. Could you post a good closeup of the top?

The old veneer can be removed with moisture and heat. A damp towel on top and an electric iron should loosen it. But before you go to that, if the veneer is otherwise intact, it would be worth trying to save it, because your top has a fairly intricate shape, and there's a lot of work involved. Stains in the wood can sometimes be removed so that the top can be refinished. You have to be careful to protect the rest of the cabinet (sides/front) from runs. You can use good masking tape around the edge of the top and lots of newspaper hanging down.

Here is one site that describes using a wood bleach to remove stains. The finish has to be removed first, of course, to get down to the stain in the wood. I have not used bleach on wood before but many others have and have been successful at it. What I would do is search the web on the subject and get an idea of how others have tackled the problem. I would think blending the bleached with the non-bleached areas would be a concern. First you'd bleach the bad part, and then the rest of it to a lesser degree to blend.

http://www.efi-costarica.com/remove-wood-stain.html

Once the stain is removed and the veneer neutralized, the top could be refinished. If it has any bubbles or lifting, you can use the paper from a brown bag on it and then iron over the bag. The heat will soften the old glue underneath so it sticks again, and weight it immediately. Any lifting at the edges you can inject wood glue using a piece of card and spreading it and then weighting.

Sand the top lightly with 220 grit or finer, just to make it smooth and remove fibers raised by the bleaching process. Always use a sanding block so the top stays level and remember you are sanding veneer which is thin!

Next use a grain filler following directions on the can. This is a thick "painty" mixture that you paint onto the top and then scrape off level across the grain using something like an old credit card. After a few minutes then the surface is scrubbed with a rough cloth again across the grain to leave the filler down in the pores of the wood so you'll have a smooth surface. Dries overnight.

Next you sand with fine paper just to remove any traces of the filler on the surface, leaving it down in the grain.
Now you need to seal it so that stains won't penetrate too much so that you can control the color. I like to use a spray can of sanding sealer. I use Deft brand that I bought at Lowe's. When that's dry sand lightly with 400 paper so it's completely smooth to the hand, no roughness or nits. Wipe down quickly with paint thinner and paper towel after all sanding.

Now you need to experiment with stains. You may need several to get a match to the old finish. The fact that you are doing the whole top, which is a different geometric surface from the sides and front, and you are not trying to blend in new with old on one surface, is in your favor, as any mismatch will be less obvious due to the way light falls, viewing angle, etc. Have paper towels ready. Dab on some stain with a paper towel and have a look, then wipe off. This will give you an idea of how to work with the stain. The longer it's left on before wiping, the stronger the color. See if another color is better, or a mixture of them. You can play with the stain and pretty much wipe it all off while wet. You can accent areas more heavily or lightly to blend different areas of the top.

When you are happy with the stain, let it dry overnight. Next day wipe a paper towel with ordinary paint thinner over a portion of it and look at it while wet. This is how it's going to look after the lacquer is on. If you're happy, let it dry. If not, experiment with the stain again.

Sand very lightly to the touch, wipe down, another couple of coats of sanding sealer. Sand again, wipe down. Finish with spray can lacquer. Again, I use Deft from Lowe's. Gloss is more durable. I'll spray an even coat, wait ten minutes, then another. You'll have to be the judge but three coats may be enough. If it's too glossy, it can be rubbed down after thirty days. Lacquer needs to cure to harden completely. More on that later if needed, I've gone on too long!

[Buzzsaaw]

Hi Winky,
That's a great looking case!.. Have you posted any pics of the inside and it would be nice to see some close ups of the outside. (the tough spots)
And Reese, Thanks for that information as it really helps for my own project here.

Buzz

[Winky Dink]

Thanks, Reece, for an excellent overview. When I started researching the issue of veneer removal the first expert said use a chisel; the second said use trisodium phosphate; and the third said use a heat gun. I'm sure all three will work, but I think I'll start with a hot iron over a wet towel. I posted some pictures that will show why I decided to replace the top veneer.

https://picasaweb.google.com/coldrb/...eat=directlink

Buzz: I will soon post some photos of the chassis restoration. All replaced parts replicate the original and I've replaced all of the faded and frayed wiring--even re-dyed the fabric cover of the power cord. I don't know why I'm working so hard on the appearance of something that will be hidden for many years to come, but I've really enjoyed it.

-Winky

[Buzzsaaw]

That's what it's all about Winky...
I'm looking forward to seeing what you do and how.

Thanks,

Buzz

[sampson159]

lucked out on this one!veneer on top will be relatively easy to match and replace.several methods to remove.heat gun,etc.i never get them this easy to restore.i get cabinets in pieces and have to be rebuilt practically.nice looking set and good luck!

[Reece]

Yeah, guess you have to replace it. The finishing of new veneer is similar to a refinish, same steps. You can make a cardboard template before removing the old, use to cut the new. I make them slightly oversize. I put several coats of wood glue on the cabinet top and on the veneer bottom and let dry overnight. Have to be careful not to get glue on the topside of the veneer as it interferes with staining. Then position veneer and press hard with hot clothes iron with brown bag paper between iron and veneer. Glue softens and then grabs hard and sticks immediately. Then I use a tiny very sharp block plane and sandpaper to get the size right.

I like your offhand arrow pointing out the electric fan!

[Winky Dink]

Iron-on technique sounds good--avoids the issues of inadequate clamping or weighting. I have seen at least one source online of the type of veneer I need, but do you have any suggestions about where to purchase? The area is slightly under 12" x 23".

[Winky Dink]

Finished the cabinet a few weeks ago. Found a woodworking shop and they helped me find a matching veneer. Used Reece's suggested 'iron-on' technique and the results were perfect.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

I also sanded out minor defects in the other veneers and re-laquered them. Stripped the rest down to bare wood, stained, and polyurethaned. Found a perfect setting for the radio:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Now I'm trying to turn this Stromberg-Carlson 400H Rust Bucket in a presentable set:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Got a surprisingly good result with the frame:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

The cabinet is in good condition, but the speaker cone is badly torn and has some shoddy previous repairs.

Thanks again for all the help with the Airline.
-Winky

[bandersen]

Wow! That looks fantastic
Good luck with the Stromberg.

[Reece]

Really nice job on that veneer and on the new chassis you're working on.

[Buzzsaaw]

That's unbelievable! Looks reallllly good!

Buzz