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  #1  
Old 12-11-2015, 11:26 PM
Eric H's Avatar
Eric H Eric H is offline
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My next restoration victim, Silvertone

Uh, I mean patient...

A 1957 or 58 Sears Silvertone Portable, 17" I think, model PC 7102R

It's in pretty good shape, knobs have the white mold and there's a bit of rust in the bottom of the cabinet but nothing bad, knobs are soaking in soapy water as I type.

Silvertone sets seem to be another victim of the dust rag, this one, like so many, have bits of the Silvertone Script broken off, this reads more like
Cilver one.

Set powers up to a strong AC hum and a horizontal line across the screen so basically it just needs recapped.

The date code on the CRT is the 30th week of 1957 so I guess this could have been sold in 57 or 58 depending on how quickly it was sold.
The 312 EIA code would mean the CRT was made by Sylvania, it's branded Silvertone however.

There's some red inspection paint on the Ion trap and CRT neck that shows the trap has probably never been removed.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg silvertone1.jpg (35.7 KB, 70 views)
File Type: jpg silvertone2.jpg (40.6 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg silvertone3.jpg (27.7 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg silvertone4.jpg (35.5 KB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg silvertone5.jpg (30.0 KB, 38 views)
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2015, 03:05 AM
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Eric H Eric H is offline
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Pulled it apart to inspect, decal says it's a Deluxe model but it looks pretty stripped down to me, minimal series string chassis, pitifully low tube count, I don't even see a damper? it does feature (if feature is the right word) two selenium rectifiers though.

Does anyone know who built this thing, Wells Gardner, Muntz?

The set was unusually heavy for a hot chassis, part of the reason is it uses a real 1/4" thick safety glass!

There's a date stamped inside the cabinet but as luck would have it the year is obscured.

The tubes are dated middle of 57 so it seems like it should be Dec 57 but that last digit is clearly not a 7, possibly an 8 but that would mean more than a years difference between the tube dates and the final assembly?

Maybe it's Dec 29 1956, a 6 is plausible based on what can be seen, possibly the date the cabinet was made and not the final assembly date?

It would make more sense to have the cabinet sitting around for six months waiting for the chassis.

This thing has an odd Circuit breaker/resistor assembly mounted on the inside of the back, AC comes in directly from the cord to this assembly then to the chassis.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg silvertone-Chassis.jpg (52.3 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg Silvertone-date.jpg (20.3 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg silvertone-glass.jpg (18.1 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg silvertone-Breaker.jpg (51.4 KB, 53 views)
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  #3  
Old 12-12-2015, 08:02 AM
tom.j.fla tom.j.fla is offline
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Hi Eric, What is the chassis I.D. number? It does look like a Warrick built set. A prefix of 528.xx,529.xx or 456.xx are Warrick sourced. all the best,Tom
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  #4  
Old 12-12-2015, 09:46 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom.j.fla View Post
Hi Eric, What is the chassis I.D. number? It does look like a Warrick built set. A prefix of 528.xx,529.xx or 456.xx are Warrick sourced. all the best,Tom
It looks like a Warwick sourced set, but the model number seems a little different.
I understand, Warwick had a plant in California and it was probably built there. The damper is the octal tube above the HV cage.
The large resister on the plate with the CB is the heater dropper.
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2015, 09:58 AM
Olorin67 Olorin67 is offline
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I had a big 24" set with what looked like almost the same chassis.
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  #6  
Old 12-12-2015, 10:43 AM
Doug66 Doug66 is offline
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Eric, have one of those and have given up on it. I never could get the horizontal to stabilize. I rebuilt all the couplings and changed the horizontal frequency coil and finally set it I the shed. Maybe I will try again sometime.
I assume yours has those large copulate with about 13 parts per unit.
Keep us informed. I will follow this thread closely.
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Old 12-12-2015, 10:52 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug66 View Post
Eric, have one of those and have given up on it. I never could get the horizontal to stabilize. I rebuilt all the couplings and changed the horizontal frequency coil and finally set it I the shed. Maybe I will try again sometime.
I assume yours has those large copulate with about 13 parts per unit.
Keep us informed. I will follow this thread closely.
Your's is a later model, that uses PC boards.
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  #8  
Old 12-12-2015, 04:00 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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When you go to recap that beast, don't make the same mistake I did back in the day. On the first one I got ahold of, that double-ended electrolytic needed replacing. The replacement had a red wire and a black wire coming out each end.
I (mistakenly) assumed "aha, each red wire goes with the black wire at the other end", and proceeded to wire it accordingly.
The set actually came on, but with gawdawful hum bars. Then after correcting the goof it worked fine and nothing got smoked.
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  #9  
Old 12-12-2015, 06:54 PM
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Eric H Eric H is offline
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I tested all the tubes, only one was bad.

The 4BQ7 in the tuner showed a short, there's a note from a tech on inside of the cabinet that says "4BS8=4BQ7" and sure enough, the tube chart shows a 4BS8 in that location.
I found a NOS 4BS8 to replace it but it too shows a slight short on my tester, possibly my tester is just wrong on this one, in any case I'm going to use the 4BS8 since that's what it originally came with.

I also gave the chassis a bath, it was filthy and some of the plated parts had that green Cadmium corrosion on them, I used some spray cleaner and a wire brush on the corroded parts, followed by a hot water bath, I avoided getting the flyback soaking wet. After that it went in the oven on the lowest setting of 170 for 15 minutes and then left it in another 30 minutes with the oven off, it came out sparkling clean!

I found this model in the 1956 Sears Wishbook catalog on http://www.wishbookweb.com/

Turns out the cabinet is Aluminum so what I thought was rust inside must just be 60 years of dirt and whatnot.

The tube shields are unusual on this set, I couldn't figure out how to remove them at first. They are two piece thin spring steel attached to the chassis, each half wraps two thirds of the way around the tube making a nice tight fit all around, you simply have to pull them apart and they open up exposing the tube, a really ingenious idea since it makes a good connection to the chassis and it holds the tube firmly in place.

Oh, and I found the Damper tube, hiding at the very bottom under the sweep tube, it's the usual 12AX4, you can just see the socket peeking out bottom right.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1956-Sears-Christmas-Book-.jpg (146.7 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg silvertoneclean1.jpg (76.9 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg silvertoneclean2.jpg (57.2 KB, 56 views)
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  #10  
Old 12-12-2015, 06:54 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
It looks like a Warwick sourced set, but the model number seems a little different.
I understand, Warwick had a plant in California and it was probably built there. The damper is the octal tube above the HV cage.
The large resister on the plate with the CB is the heater dropper.
I pulled the Sams on the beauty and it shows the damper tube is beneath the horiz output tube, a 12AX4.
The set in question, seems a lot different, than the set shown in the Sams.
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  #11  
Old 12-12-2015, 06:59 PM
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Eric H Eric H is offline
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Can you give me the Sams number? I don't think I have one for it and have been having problems looking it up by model number
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2015, 11:02 PM
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Eric H Eric H is offline
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This set was repaired sometime in the early 60's, there's a five! section Sprague Atom installed with a 1960 date code.

If only I could time travel back and order another one of those.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg silvertone-sprague.jpg (41.9 KB, 40 views)
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  #13  
Old 12-12-2015, 11:15 PM
Eric H's Avatar
Eric H Eric H is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom.j.fla View Post
Hi Eric, What is the chassis I.D. number? It does look like a Warrick built set. A prefix of 528.xx,529.xx or 456.xx are Warrick sourced. all the best,Tom
Hi Tom, the chassis # is 456-50084
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  #14  
Old 12-13-2015, 09:06 AM
tom.j.fla tom.j.fla is offline
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Hi Eric, Your Sams is 339-13 from 12/1956. With Sears look up for photo fact by chassis number and look under Sears not Silvertone.All the best,Tom
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  #15  
Old 12-13-2015, 10:34 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric H View Post
I tested all the tubes, only one was bad.

The 4BQ7 in the tuner showed a short, there's a note from a tech on inside of the cabinet that says "4BS8=4BQ7" and sure enough, the tube chart shows a 4BS8 in that location.
I found a NOS 4BS8 to replace it but it too shows a slight short on my tester, possibly my tester is just wrong on this one, in any case I'm going to use the 4BS8 since that's what it originally came with.

I also gave the chassis a bath, it was filthy and some of the plated parts had that green Cadmium corrosion on them, I used some spray cleaner and a wire brush on the corroded parts, followed by a hot water bath, I avoided getting the flyback soaking wet. After that it went in the oven on the lowest setting of 170 for 15 minutes and then left it in another 30 minutes with the oven off, it came out sparkling clean!

I found this model in the 1956 Sears Wishbook catalog on http://www.wishbookweb.com/

Turns out the cabinet is Aluminum so what I thought was rust inside must just be 60 years of dirt and whatnot.

The tube shields are unusual on this set, I couldn't figure out how to remove them at first. They are two piece thin spring steel attached to the chassis, each half wraps two thirds of the way around the tube making a nice tight fit all around, you simply have to pull them apart and they open up exposing the tube, a really ingenious idea since it makes a good connection to the chassis and it holds the tube firmly in place.

Oh, and I found the Damper tube, hiding at the very bottom under the sweep tube, it's the usual 12AX4, you can just see the socket peeking out bottom right.
The tube shields were a U/L requirement, where they couldn't be removed and left laying inside the cabinet to contact the chassis and energize the metal cabinet.
BTW, the middle set, shown in the wish book, the one with the knobs and the dopey handle on the side is shown in the movie, "Godfather I".
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