1959 Admiral 17" b/w with remote control

[Adam]

I have good sound, HV, bright picture, vertical, but horizontal oscillator frequency is way low. I start adjusting it, but once it gets up to around 14.2KHz I hear something arcing in the HV cage and the frequency drops by about 2KHz. So I remove the HV cage, turn out the lights, and see if I can see anything. But I see nothing, it seems to be coming from inside the fly itself. The good news is I found one on epay, so now I just have to wait for it to show up. The HV cage was full of sawdust when I got it. At first I thought it had been a mouse house, but there was no mouse crap or bad smell, just loads of sawdust It is possible it just fell in through the vents on the top, but it still seems weird.

The power tuning works. The remote I have is a newer model, not the one that originally went with this set. It was seized up with rust, I just unseized it and the channel button works, but not the volume. I don't know if they changed the frequency, my rusty remote just isn't working at the right frequency, or there actually is something wrong with the receiving unit. But for now I'm going to wait for the new fly and fix the horizontal problems before I mess around with the remote stuff.

The other problem I had with this set was that the resistors in series with the filament string were open, but all the tubes were ok, except for the HO which was missing.

[bandersen]

Is that a model PS17F22 ? I picked one up a few weeks ago and recall there was a yellow one on ebay at the same time.

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=261490

[Jon A.]

Unusual remote, it's the only mechanical unit I've seen with "Sonar" completely spelled out.

[Adam]

That's it. I was going to bid on that black one, then had to do something else the day the auction ended and missed it. Then I picked up that yellow one instead.

Looking at your pictures I see why the volume control on my remote isn't working. Your set has that big stepper relay to control the volume and mine doesn't. This one was originally only meant to work with a one button remote. I have remote chassis 4H3, the two-button chassis is the 4G3, both schematics are in my sams folder. I've never seen the one-button Admiral remote, I wonder what it looks like?

I think the remotes that have "Sonar", rather than "Son-R", are newer.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Adam

That's it. I was going to bid on that black one, then had to do something else the day the auction ended and missed it. Then I picked up that yellow one instead.

Looking at your pictures I see why the volume control on my remote isn't working. Your set has that big stepper relay to control the volume and mine doesn't. This one was originally only meant to work with a one button remote. I have remote chassis 4H3, the two-button chassis is the 4G3, both schematics are in my sams folder. I've never seen the one-button Admiral remote, I wonder what it looks like?

I think the remotes that have "Sonar", rather than "Son-R", are newer.

I had both models about 50 years ago. IIRC, The single button remote was the same size, but the button was in the center.
They had the on-off function, incorporated with the channel selector. I disabled that, as I felt is was too hard on the set, shutting off at every complete rotation of the tuner.
I also added a UHF strip on mine.
I would calculate a capacitive reactance voltage drop for the heaters, instead of a dropping resistor.

[radiotron]

I used to have one of these, that sets history now

[DaveWM]

do you have a BK tv analyst? they really come in handy for this type of problem.

[compucat]

The chassis on that set looks fairly well made but the cabinet looks a bit flimsy. That is some thin plastic there.

[Adam]

I used those resistors with the cooling fins on them rated at about twice the wattage as the originals. I would think that would last. If I had done capacitors, I figure I would have had to use non-polar electrolytics, about 50uF for the 51 ohm and 330uF for the 8 ohm.

I do have a B&K analyst, but it needs work. If anyone has schematics for the 1075 let me know, I've yet to find one.

I swapped the fly, and I was fairly certain that was the problem. (The wet sawdust it was sitting in, the fact that it looked dried out and that so much of the wax had melted off had convinced me of it.) I'm leaving the new one in there for good. But now I'm fairly certain the arcing I'm hearing is in the yoke. So now, I'm looking for one of the following:

Halldorson y52
Thordarson y52
Ram y110
Stancor dy27a
Triad y60, nw23, yc110, yc1, cl1

[Adam]

So this TV had me confused. I was convinced I was hearing the sound of something arcing. The sound went away when I pulled the plate cap off the HO tube, and did not go away when I disconnected the HV rectifier. So I thought the problem had to be the fly or the yoke. But I put in a new fly and yoke (a merit mdf 120) and had the same results. I even tried changing the tube socket the yoke plugged into.

But it turns out that sound was a symptom of the horizontal oscillator not being at the right frequency and not what was causing it. I had two bad mica capacitors, once I changed them and the horizontal was going at the right frequency the sound I was hearing went away.

But if I adjust the horizontal to be down at the frequency it was at before, I still hear that noise. I doubt seriously the new fly and yoke are bad in any way. So if nothing is arcing, what is that awful sound I hear when the horizontal gets down around 14KHz coming from the yoke, or the flyback?

The horiz wouldn't lock when I first got those capacitors replaced, but that problem was the more commonly bad horiz afc diode. I've pretty much started replacing those automatically when I recap. Now I got a stash of those ECG 113s, and RCA SK 113s, but I have in the past just used two 1N4007 diodes, which seemed to work.

I'm going to have to remove the CRT to clean dirt off the front of it. But otherwise, this tv is done. That remote I have is in pretty bad condition, but it works, and I'm not going to do too much work repairing the case, because it's not the one that really belongs with this tv anyway. pics...

[bandersen]

Glad to see it come back to life I've heard horrible sounds coming from flybacks when the frequency was off before. Something to do with resonance I think.

[Adam]

I still have to repair the remote case at least enough that it holds together in one piece. But otherwise I'm done with this set. Check out the repaired by Ray's TV sticker from 1963.

Next on to the '61 RCA. Now I only have two sets out of 21 that don't work: that RCA and my Zenith porthole console. But I probably won't get to the porthole this summer.

[jbattles]

it sure is a small world I grew up about 8 miles from there in stone mountain. I did contracting work for him the early 90's.

[Adam]

I found a '59 Admiral remote for this set a few months ago. It's the 2 button remote, not the 1 button version like would have come with this set. But at least this one fits in the remote holder on the side of the set. I cleaned it up today, and touched up the paint a little. It works...

[Username1]

Cool tv ! And a remote set +

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