Looking for schematic for RCA KCS136YA/ Also some old B&W sets on Pgh. Craigslist

[ClarusWorks]

I ended up buying the RCA set listed in this craigslist post: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/atq/3065476758.html

It's a New Vista B&W, model 34 B 222 MV/ chassis KCS 136 YA. Sams Photofact 704-2, anyone have a copy of this? The set doesn't have the UHF tuner installed (not that those are good for anything these days anyhow) but appears to be complete on the inside and in decent shape.

I vacuumed out the million dust bunnies inside the cabinet, checked for obviously burned components, and finding none decided to try my luck at powering the set on. Initially, the speaker buzzed loudly, but the buzz quieted down over the course of 10 seconds or so. The TV does appear to work, although the picture is a bit blurry and there's still some 60Hz hum coming out of the speaker, so it should probably be recapped.

Also, the other 3 sets in that craigslist posting (I am not affiliated with the seller) are still for sale, seller is about 25 miles north of Pittsburgh, PA. The seller is a guy who goes to estate auctions and says he occasionally ends up with old TVs. He isn't interested in shipping them, but if someone really really wants one I might be willing to pick it up and pack it (Obviously you'd have to pay the shipping cost, these things aren't terribly light).

The Magnavox is a model 1T5005, small all-plastic portable. Back case has "JAPAN" molded into it and the line cord is a Yazaki so it's almost certainly a Japanese rebrand. It looks to be in very good condition, not sure if it'd be tube or solid state but I suspect tube as 60s solid state gear tended to be labeled prominently as such.

The Motorola's back label is not readable, I have a sneaking suspicion the set got wet at some point. The back was only partially screwed on, there's some kind of large coil on the back of the tube that looks corroded (hence the suspicion of rain). Cool looking, not sure if it'd be restorable. Case is all bakelite, a bit scratched but probably cleanable.

The Admiral is a model PA 17 D 26, front bezel is metal, rest of the case is gray plastic. It looks to be in decent shape although there's some rust/pitting on the metal bezel and carry handle.

[DavGoodlin]

That was a 1964 model. I had a console version that sounded quite nice with two speakers. Never did get the AGC quite perfect on it. I have a factory-issued manual on that chassis.

Send a PM with email, I can scan and send 2 U.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by DavGoodlin

That was a 1964 model. I had a console version that sounded quite nice with two speakers. Never did get the AGC quite perfect on it. I have a factory-issued manual on that chassis.

Send a PM with email, I can scan and send 2 U.

That really was a great chassis, but I had grief with the AGC on one of them. After blowing about four hours on it, I discovered a couple of resistors in the IF, that changed value. After repairing it, it worked great again.

[DavGoodlin]

Wow, those hi-value resistors seem to just go bad without any help.

I may have been headed there next, but another set probably showed up (this was long ago) with an easier fix. I had alot of almosts but usually sold the sets I got close to 100%, mostly Zeniths, GE and Philco LOL

[ClarusWorks]

Sorry that you can't really see the TV, just the screen. It's currently hiding in a corner of my apartment that is entirely too full of stuff. These are with no restoration, I haven't had a chance to pull the chassis and mark down electrolytic cap values.

Note: The random breaks in the picture aren't on the TV screen, they're cables that are in the way.

First, a couple of the set displaying broadcast TV (via a DTV converter box):
TV#1
TV#2


Now, a couple test patterns. These were generated using a B&K 1248 test pattern generator.
Grid of lines
Dots (closeup)

Given that the set is unrestored and almost 50 years old, I think the picture is fairly decent. I definitely intend to replace all the electrolytics, hopefully that will improve the blurriness and ghosting (the ghosting is most visible in the closeup of the dot pattern - these are nice round dots on my 90s RCA XL-100). One quick question - is there anything I need to do differently discharging the CRT on this set versus the solid state sets and computer monitors I've worked on in the past? My usual procedure is to take a plastic-handled screwdriver with a wire attached to the metal part, clip the wire to the rake/spring/whatever touches the aquadag on the tube, and touch the point of the screwdriver to the anode connector.