1949 Zenith Porthole Restoration

[Radiotronman]

Hi there,

This is my first post and I put it in the intro section, but it may not have been read there. I'm restoring a 1949 Zenith Porthole, model 28t926. I'm having to restore everything, including the case. It's missing the shield over the tuner, but maybe I can make one. The flyback tests bad on my eico tester, does anyone have an extra one? I also wondered if having the switch to turn the tv screen from full screen to partial screen was an option? My set doesn't have one and I thought they all did; my other two portholes do. It was free, so I couldn't pass it up! I also need the maroon colored knobs. I only have the blonde set. I've reveneered the top and sides. Still a work in progress. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Scott

[Paul Knaack]

Hello Scott,
I like it , it looks rough but once all the loose veneer is glued back down and the set is cleaned up it'll look alot better. I have the 28t960 (same chassis I believe) I don't believe these sets had the screen size option. I think that started on the 1950 sets.I do have a maroon volume knob on mine and i'll look to see if I have any of the other maroon knobs. Would you trade a maroon volume knob for a blonde one?

[Radiotronman]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for your help. As you can seen in the picture, I've reveneered the top and side. After about a bottle of glue, I've glued the set back together. Now I have to make the slats for the side and the triangular piece with cutouts at the top side. I've always wanted a 1949 Zenith, but they're pretty hard to find. I notice my model has the nameplate at the bottom, where as the other similar 1949 sets its at the top. Once I finish making the remaining pieces ill refinish it. Yes, I'd trade a blonde knob for a red one. I will most likely not find a blonde porthole, they're even harder to find. I've recapped the seperate power supply caps, but zero high voltage. My flyback looks sad tests sick. This may be my biggest roadblock...finding one.

Thanks,
Scott

[Sandy G]

Sounds like you know yer way around Portholes pretty well... I LOVE how they totally freak today's jaded kids out.

[Eric H]

I have the 10" version of this set, it's flyback was toast also, I'm assuming here that your set uses the same chassis with the Fly mounted on top?

Since it has the same Sweep tubes as the RCA 630 and similar I was able to swap in a common RCA FLY-1 flyback with no wiring changes, other than replacing the resistor network in the yoke to the RCA values, it works great, runs cool and is a much better flyback than the Zenith.

If I can find the pictures of the swap I'll post them.\

Ahh, found it.


And the thread about it:
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/...yback&start=20

[hi_volt]

Nice looking set. Keep us posted on your progress.

[Radiotronman]

Eric,

That is an interesting idea! Now I've got to find a fly-1, because I don't have one. That will hopefully be easier to find. I added s picture of the original fly to show you how sad it is. I've also got to restring my contrast and tuning dials also, but that shouldn't be too hard.

Thanks,
Scott

[Radiotronman]

The case is starting to take shape and about ready to make the missing slats and the top molding along the right side with vent cutouts.

Scott

[DavGoodlin]

This set is off to a great start. I like seeing a cabinet that would otherwise be kindling become whole again.
I did veneer on a '36 GE console radio and was not able to hide the sheet joints

[kramden66]

is that fly shot or just dirty and cook ed

[Radiotronman]

It fails the continuity and the short test on my eico 944 flyback and yoke tester.

Scott

[Radiotronman]

The face is all glued back together. Finally ready to strip the case!

Scott

[Radiotronman]

The control doors cleaned up nicely, just waxed them. The screen escutcheon I had to repaint as close to the original color as I could find.

[Eric H]

Originally Posted by Radiotronman

It fails the continuity and the short test on my eico 944 flyback and yoke tester.

Scott

Are you testing it in circuit? I'm pretty sure it has to be completely disconnected.

It doesn't look all that bad, I wouldn't give up on it until you get the set fired up and see if it works. Mine actually shot sparks out of it so I was pretty sure it was shot.

[Radiotronman]

I tested with the eico tester with the HV rectifier and horizontal output tubes out of their sockets. I have fired up the set, after I replace the power supply caps and nothing...

Scott