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  #16  
Old 03-01-2016, 04:22 PM
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Celt Celt is offline
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Voltage here is stable @ 127V with summertime peaks of 130V. So far, nothing has blown up.
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2016, 08:31 PM
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Here is a picture of my voltage with my space-heater on the lowest setting. The. CTC-25 is quite upset when I first wake it up with the voltage this low.
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Last edited by TUD1; 12-30-2016 at 10:20 PM.
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  #18  
Old 03-02-2016, 08:52 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
Here is a picture of my voltage with my space-heater on the lowest setting. The. CTC-25 is quite upset when I first wake it up with the voltage this low.
You have a bad voltage drop, that is worth investigating.
What is the lowest setting on the heater? 500 or 750 watts.
Take the space heater to another room and check the voltage on the Watt Watcher. That's way too much of a voltage loss!
Also, portable electric heaters, should be plugged into a wall receptacle and not into a power strip or extension cord.
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  #19  
Old 03-02-2016, 09:09 PM
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The lowest setting on the space-heater is 1300 watts. I live in the basement with zero insulation in the wall, so it gets really cold in winter and unbearably hot in summer. I recently got a 1970's window A/C unit for summertime. I should probably switch the CTC-25 to the low voltage tap someday.
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  #20  
Old 03-03-2016, 08:47 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
The lowest setting on the space-heater is 1300 watts. I live in the basement with zero insulation in the wall, so it gets really cold in winter and unbearably hot in summer. I recently got a 1970's window A/C unit for summertime. I should probably switch the CTC-25 to the low voltage tap someday.
If you're planning to use the air conditioner in hot weather, you'll have to address the voltage drop condition. The inrush current at start, will be a lot higher than 1300 watts and the voltage drop, will be a lot higher. The AC compressor will probably not even start.
I made my real living as an electrician, so I'm not a stranger to these problems.
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  #21  
Old 03-03-2016, 10:07 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Yep, those lousy push-in or e-z wire receptacles suck. UL made a HUUUGE blunder listing those
Pull 'em out and pigtail thru-wiring if your box is big enough or replace with back-wired/screw-tightened receptacles - do not use anything that cost less than $1.50
U/L changed the listing on the push and pray or backstabbed devices. That's what electricians call them. The new ones only allow a #14 solid wire, to be inserted, a step in the right direction. Those devices are referred to as "Competitive Grade".
I was pleasantly surprised to find all the devices in my 13 YO home were properly terminated, even though, they used the lower end devices.
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  #22  
Old 03-03-2016, 10:13 AM
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maxhifi maxhifi is offline
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See what the voltage is like on a different circuit. That much voltage drop is bad news,
Here in Canada we're allowed maximum 3% voltage drop on a circuit. Maybe there's an extension cord burried in the wall or some
Other fire waiting to happen... I would quit using that circuit with heavy loads until you sort out what's up
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  #23  
Old 03-03-2016, 10:32 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by Celt View Post
Voltage here is stable @ 127V with summertime peaks of 130V. So far, nothing has blown up.
I would have the Poco check into it! That voltage is a little too high. The voltage on your line was probably low at one time. Once they corrected the problem, they never changed the primary taps on the area transformers.
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