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  #36  
Old 05-25-2021, 06:41 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 15,410
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 View Post
This damn GE set is proving to be a real dog, just as someone predicted from the start, you think it's fixed and working, and it acts up again, the R-Y problem has returned, I take a look in the back, and the heater for the X-DEMOD is dark, but why? New tube, new socket, new resistors, etc, I have re-soldered many times, I have to grab it and wiggle it at odd angles to get it to come on and work correctly, same old song and dance for this thing, same as it ever was.... same as it ever was...

At this point, I'd most likely have to pull the chassis again, and point to point small gauge wire at all connections of the color PCB to get this to stop, because I have re soldered it 3 times at this point, and it's still giving me problems, I MAY do this, I may not, as I did not get this set for functionality, but more so as to have a spare 21FJP22 on hand for the CTC-16, if ever needed, as I mentioned, but it would be nice to see RED fleshtone when I turn it on,
If the heater line starts thermally opening to a PCB socket and it relapses (assuming it isn't a socket problem) I'd just bypass the PCB with wire.

On my CTC15 clone I fattened my traces with solder till they were close to 1/16" thick.

My new CTC16 Stockholm combo had the luminance output tube heater thermally intermittent... Somebody was unsuccessfully chasing the issue as they replaced all the horizontal tubes and the luminance output tube and kept the old ones in a cigar box. Since the hot trace for that tube was really short and the ground trace was long, after reflowing and fattening the traces joints and board ground lugs I soldered a backup jumper between the heater ground of the tube socket and the chassis...I don't expect it to relapse.
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