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#1
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I finally straightened that antenna out! I worked from the outside in, gluing it down a loop at a time. I used 5-minute epoxy at first, but that was taking forever so I switched to hot glue.
So does it work ? Yes! I am able to pull in stations from all over. Next, I plan to tweak the trimmers and coils using the RCA WR-50B RF generator I just picked up. All together it took about 4 hours Definitely not something I ever want to do again!
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#2
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Good show! Like a heart or brain surgeon, one can't have coffee for 2 days before attempting a job like this...nerves of steel...
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver. |
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#3
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Thanks. Definitely no coffee before working on this!
The correct electrolytics showed up and I restuffed the can. ![]() I also replaced the nasty old AC plug. The cord is a bit stiff, but seem sound enough. ![]() So that's it for the electrical restoration. That leaves the dial pointer and the cabinet. kbmuri is working on reproducing the dial hub and the cabinet will have to wait until spring.
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#4
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How do you get the can flange to peel back nice and even like that?
__________________
Growing up leads to growing old and then to dying, And dying to me dont sound like all that much fun... -John Mellencamp |
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#5
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Patience, good tools and some great advice from drh4683 and Zenithfan1
Essentially, I used a small pocket knife blade to pry the seam open. Then, I switched to a small flat bladed screwdriver and worked my way around. Getting it started is the hardest part. |
| Audiokarma |
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#6
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It's looking great. I also see that you use the same mouse that I do. I like not having to move the mouse itself to do things.
This little radio will look nice in your collection. Bruce |
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#7
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Quote:
![]() I found some time to do an FM alignment and work on the cabinet this weekend. One of the three sections of the tuning knob was broken off when I received the radio. It looked like someone had tried to glue or melt it back together but failed. I went hunting for some glue and found this 2-part epoxy formulated for plastics. It smells, looks and feels different than epoxies I've used before. I figure that's a good sign because those others didn't work so well on plastic. I roughed up the surfaces, mixed the glue and applied a small amount the both surfaces. Although it takes 20 minutes to cure, I only had to hold it together for about a minute for it to hold in place. I let it sit for a couple hours just and it's good as new ![]() Now for a dunk overnight in some cleaner. All the old dirt and gunk fell right off. ![]() The plastic cabinet trim was held on with some metal clips. I was able to remove three of them without trouble, but the fourth post broke off. Good thing I have that glue! I carefully bent back the tabs on the brass bezel and removed it along with the dial glass. The logo was held on with another metal clip and I got it off undamaged. Time for some cleaning. ![]() The brass polished up real nice. I sprayed it with the brass lacquer and will let it cure for a couple days. ![]() That leaves the plastic trim piece. I've buffed it with Novus and will attempt to fill in the recessed lettering with a lacquer stick or some paint. Last edited by bandersen; 12-26-2010 at 07:56 PM. |
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#8
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Time to deal with the disintegrated dial pointer. I flattened the red pointer with some heat and pressure. I couldn't salvage anything from the white plastic hub though.
So I dug through all my knobs and came up with this guy. ![]() I cut down the shaft, drilled it larger and cut a slot. ![]() Then, I filed off all those nubs, sanded it smooth and polished it up. ![]() Here's a test fit. Not to shabby I think. The tuning shaft itself is off center. I think there are some adjustments screws for that.
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#9
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The cabinet face was held on by wood screws just like it's GE810 cousin. That made it a lot easier to avoid damaging the grille cloth.
I went over the cabinet with Howard's Restore-a-Finish Walnut followed by Feed-n-Wax. There are areas of finish loss so it could benefit from a refinishing, but that can wait until summer. ![]() Here's a before and after. I tried using gold to fill in the recessed lettering, but it was hard to see so I went with black. ![]() Here it is on top of my GE 810. Yes, I'll replace that burlap grille cloth on the 810 someday .
Last edited by bandersen; 12-29-2010 at 01:30 AM. |
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#10
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Beautiful. Its just beautiful!
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| Audiokarma |
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#11
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The kinda job I like on that pointer! Great.
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver. |
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#12
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Thanks guys. I dug up a picture of a set with an intact dial pointer.
I guess my replica isn't too shabby after all.
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#13
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Always a pleasure to see your work. I hope fare half as well on some of my own projects waiting their turn.
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