Zenith G2439RZ "Monroe" restoration

[bandersen]

I finally got my first Zenith porthole set It's a Zenith G2439RZ aka "Monroe" with a dual 24G24/24G26 chassis and 16EP4A CRT.
It's built like a tank and is quite heavy. Definitely the heaviest non-combo set I have.

Here it is arriving on my back porch. (I removed the door pull handles so I could lay it face down).


There's some finish loss on top, but the underlying veneer is fine. Also a strip on one door is damaged.
It looks like the whole strip could be pulled off and replaced. otherwise just the usual nicks, dings and chipped veneer along the bottom.


The original back is in great condition.


I'm not sure if the right pull is bent or intentional. If it is bent, I'd expect there to be some signs of distress


Those doors did a nice job of protecting and preserving the screen and controls.
I'm also not sure if the Horizontal Freq. control is missing it's knob or if it's supposed to be recessed

[charokeeroad]

Looks Great. I had the same front pull knob condition on my set. Each one was bent to the side. I took each one and heated it on an open flame, from a gas stove being careful not to overheat and then gently sterightened each one out. Patients is the key. It's hard to describe the right temperature, certainly not red hot. In fact I never let it get anything close to red hot. I heated each one and then tried to bend it a little. I reheated a couple of time bending just a little each time. Both of mine were bent as much as your is on the right hand side. The one on your left looks good, correct. I think they are made of a pot metal type material which is notorious for snapping but if it"s heated first it becomes moderately pliable.

My set has the same knob set inside the control door as yours.. five. nothing on the Horiz Freq.

If it were me I wouldn't strip the top and refinish it. I would stain the bare spots with red mahogany until it looked like the rest of the top and then shoot it with simi gloss poly from a spray can until it matches. I have tried using my own spray equipment but didn't get very good results. The spray can has just the right nozzle and preasure to get a perfect finish. I'm sure that didn't happen by accident, it probably took some experimentation to get it just right so why try to reinvent the wheel. The rest of the cabinet looks really good. I would just go over the bare spots with the RM and rub it out. The missing piece on the door looks almost impossible to replace or repair. I would just stain the bare spot and forget it, it's not that noticable.

[Penthode]

This is a nice looking set.

I noticed what looks like the power supply chassis below has a bit of surface rust. How do you clean the rust? And what shape are the legs and the veneer in?

It seems that most of these old sets will have been a some time relegated to a damp basement hence end up with rust and splitting/ peeling veneer at the base.

[bandersen]

Thanks for all the great tips. I'm really glad I'm not missing any knobs. I'm tired of the endless knob quests

Here's a look inside. There is some evidence of repairs like a fairly modern blue electrolytic.

I'm gonna guess the "Z" on the CRT is for Zenith ?




It appears an old plate cap was ripped off and a wire spliced to a new one.


Ok, now for the bad news. The CRT is nearly dead At first there were no emissions so i cooked it for a few hours at 6.3 and later 7 VAC. That got it up from zero to 1/3 up the "bad" scale. I then tried the rejuvinate, auto-restore and manual restore functions on my Sencore CR70 as the manual instructs. Each operation gave a brief increase but then sank back down to the low reading. The life test stinks too.

So, I will restore it using a 5AXP4 on my workbench and hope I can squeeze some sort of picture out of the 16EP4A. Eventually, maybe I can score a better 16EP4 or get it rebuilt by the ETF.

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by Penthode

This is a nice looking set.

I noticed what looks like the power supply chassis below has a bit of surface rust. How do you clean the rust? And what shape are the legs and the veneer in?

It seems that most of these old sets will have been a some time relegated to a damp basement hence end up with rust and splitting/ peeling veneer at the base.

Thanks.

I'll use naval jelly on it. Probably several applications of a few hours to really get it all off. It should be easy to work on since it's small and unplugs from the top chassis.

The wood frame and legs are nice and solid. There is some veneer separation and loss around the base but it's not that bad. I have some scraps of mahogany veneer salvaged from another cabinet that should make good patches.

[cwmoser]

My model # 2438RZ1 chassis # 24G26 Porthole is practically identical to yours - down to the 16EP4A CRT.

Both chassis's in my TV were heavily rusted - yours looks like its in great shape.

I love these old Porthole TVs and look forward to reading about your restoration process.
I know you are going to do it right and I can pick up some more tips.

Carl

[Sandy G]

Me likey-But y'all know I have a SERIOUS "Jones" for a Zenith Porthole....

[miniman82]

Knew you'd end up getting that!

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by cwmoser

My model # 2438RZ1 chassis # 24G26 Porthole is practically identical to yours - down to the 16EP4A CRT.

Both chassis's in my TV were heavily rusted - yours looks like its in great shape.

I love these old Porthole TVs and look forward to reading about your restoration process.
I know you are going to do it right and I can pick up some more tips.

Carl

I followed your whole restoration saga with great interest and have already started going through it again when I realized how similar it was.

I'm really happy this set has a "real" power transformer and parallel wired tubes rather than the hot series wired one that's so similar looking.

Originally Posted by miniman82

Knew you'd end up getting that!

LOL - Thanks for the tip. I had my chance to get one with a BIN of $100 a couple years ago, but hesitated a couple minutes too long and have been kicking myself ever since. Now I can can finally let it go

[radio63]

What a nice set! Will look forward to reading about your restoration work on this. Hope you are able to repair the bad finish and wood damage rather than stripping. Interesting it has that newer capacitor. Wonder how long ago it was worked on? Sorry to hear the CRT is weak. Hope you can find another soon. That's a very handsome set!

Gilbert

[cwmoser]

Referring to your photo redisplayed below, I misplaced that light gray color piece at the slide switch:


Well actually, i did find it and wondered where it goes, and then later realized what it was for, but lost it. Its somewhere in my workshop. Be careful removing the chassis - twice I've pulled the main chassis forgetting to disconnect the slide switch ripping the wires off.

Are you going to refinish the bezels on the front?

Carl

[bandersen]

Thanks for the tip

I don't think I'll refinish the bezels. The doors have protected them well.

Anyone know what the button at the top is for ? Does it allow you to remove the safety glass for cleaning ?

[vts1134]

I saw this set on ebay and thought about making the drive from Pittsburgh to get it. I hope it goes well.

[Red Raster]

Originally Posted by bandersen

Thanks for the tip

I don't think I'll refinish the bezels. The doors have protected them well.

Anyone know what the button at the top is for ? Does it allow you to remove the safety glass for cleaning ?

Nice find!, What is a collection without a porthole. Your set looks like the big sister (165sq in) to my Graemere (105sq in) the bad news, there is no cure for porthole fever, so make room for the next one. Some would walk a mile for camel, i will drive hundreds for a porthole.
As for the button at the top of the screen it is a trim adjustment for the built in antenna. The button would have served a more usefull porpose if it would allow a easy frontal safety glass removal.
Mike.

p/s i will do a post with pictures.

[cwmoser]

Originally Posted by Red Raster

Nice find!, What is a collection without a porthole. Your set looks like the big sister (165sq in) to my Graemere (105sq in) the bad news, there is no cure for porthole fever, so make room for the next one. Some would walk a mile for camel, i will drive hundreds for a porthole.
As for the button at the top of the screen it is a trim adjustment for the built in antenna. The button would have served a more usefull porpose if it would allow a easy frontal safety glass removal.
Mike.

p/s i will do a post with pictures.

"there is no cure for porthole fever, so make room for the next one. Some would walk a mile for camel, i will drive hundreds for a porthole. " True. I am on the prowl for another porthole Zenith TV too. Please don't fish in my back yard :-)

We would love to see pictures of your Graemere model.

Carl