Service manual for a Magnavox MV 353 R1 needed

[Dangler]

Anybody have, or know where to get, a service manual for a Magnavox MV 353 R1 black and white TV/Radio/Phono console from 1957? I don't know if the last two numbers are "R1 or RI". The paper tag says Style T 293 11. I've been all over the net for the last week or so with no results. I need to repair some wiring that has been "modified" by someone in the past. It's not listed in Sams. Thank's in advance.

Dan

[marty59]

Magnavoxes can be tricky to get numbers off of and your best bet would be any kind of chassis number to figure out from. I didn't see anything you described in my index book.

Sometimes, chassis's may be simular and can be referred to as a "series" (?). There is a 350 series listed as H.S. 291-8. That would be mid 50ish. Here is when a library and an index (and some spare time) can be your friend.

Someone else here may have a better idea.......

[Dangler]

Thank's, Marty. I'm going to do some more looking inside the cabinet and see if there's anything else I can find. ETF lists several chassis but I can't download them for some reason, so I'll have to go to the "Libary" this morning.

Replacing the caps shouldn't be a problem, but there has been some rewiring done on the phono section and the plug for the TT motor is missing.

I'll try and post some pics in the "Show us your consoles" thread today.

Thank's again.

Dan

[marty59]

Combos can be listed under seperate numbers and Howard Sams Photofacts so look for all the chassis numbers on each piece and go from there. If it still has the original Collaro record changer depending on the model, there will be a sams for those too.

If you run into difficulties then post some pictures so maybe we can ID what you have.

Also, over on Yahoo is a "Magnavox Friends" site but they stick to audio mostly, but lots of info.

[Dangler]

I didn't think about searching Sams for the individual components. It has the original TT, which I believe is a Collaro. It has a separate amp that uses four 6V6's and two 5Y3's. I'll have to look and see what the other tubes are in the amp. I think it might put out about 30 to 40 watts depending how it's configured. Thank's for the idea. I'll start doing some checking in a little bit.

Dan

[Dangler]

The top as well as the sliding door are glass with a fake wood finish on the reverse side.
The changer is a "Magnavox Deluxe", 3 speeds. Made in England. A little research turned up "Collaro Conquest" as being the same thing.
The TV portion has 17 tubes and a 24AHP4 picture tube.
The TV tuner is located in the AM/FM radio portion of the cabinet.
The amp uses four 6V6's, two 5Y3's and a 12AX7 for the pre-amp.
The radio is AM/FM with a green tuning eye.
All of the controls for the TV are located above the radio.
It probably wouldn't hurt to replace those crossover caps on the speakers

I only paid $20.00 for it. Might make good "Fish Tank"!

I'll search Sams and see what I can find on the changer.

Just kiddin' about the fish tank.

[marty59]

Okay...we've got somethng to work with here!

The Collaro changer is a model RC-456 and is covered in H.S. 342-3. it has lots of good mechanical and set up info but nothing electrical.

The Amplifier should have an ID on it that is simply "AMPxxx". Looks like a nice amp!

The Tuner/Pre will be labeled something like "XX-XX-XX".

Ah, the TV chassis...simple. It a V26-03AA, aka a "26 Series". It's covered in H.S. 404-3.

On your changer, is just the plug missing? Still have the wires, (red, yellow, black) correct? I can help you ID the wiring and I may have an extra three prong plug for you and can post a pic.

[Dangler]

Thank you very much, Marty!

I did some wire tracing last night and now am not sure if the socket on the amp was used to power the phono. That's what had me wondering since the changer is not getting power.

The amp is a Amp142-OC

The yellow wire from the changer goes to a switch inside the changer compartment marked Auto/Manual and shut off. From the switch, the green and black wires go to a plug that plugs into the back of the radio chassis. The other two red and black wires from the changer go to the same plug on the back of the radio. There is a place on the far right of the amp that says "Phono Motor". Now I'm thinking that might have been a provision for the amp being used in a different style cabinet with no TV.

I'm going to check the switch to make sure it's OK and check the socket on the back of the radio to be sure it's getting voltage.

Thank's again for all of the info. I'll let you know what I find out.

[marty59]

The power should be switched by the selector on the tuner/pre I believe. I have not been around these all in one type combo's with the TV but (and you may have to determine) if this unit is set up to power either the TV or the radio/phono/amp seperately or not.

Magnavoxes of this vintage (in general) were designed that if you were playing a record for instance and after the last play the unit would cycle and power everything off. I'm not sure how the TV function plays into all of this. That amp would be really cool if it's switched for the TV audio!

Unfortunalely, schematics that contain seperate pieces don't always cover the "interfacing" of everything together as a whole but you may need to gather as much info as you can and troubleshoot from there.

[Dangler]

I got the changer working, broken wire somewhere inside of the insulation. Just replaced it. Now I am going to have to get a new cartridge. The original is an old Astatic 463 ceramic type. I have a Shure 742 that will bolt right in, but I don't know if it would be any good after all these years. I might try it a little later. The Shure is kind of a weird design in that instead of the needle flipping over for 78's or 45's, it has two needles that are side by side and move into a metal groove when the lever is switched like a conventional cartridge. It looks like both needles would be in contact with the record at the same time.

The TV audio does in fact go through the amp, so it should have pretty good sound.

I'm going to order some electrolytics for the TV, amp and radio tomorrow and take it from there once I get those replaced.

The amp doesn't hum...yet, but I'll replace the caps as a precaution. I've been listening to the radio and am pretty happy with it.

[marty59]

Sams does list an AMP142AB, should be the same 311-9.

[wa2ise]

The folks over in the AudioKarma tube audio forum think highly of those Magnavox amps.

[Dangler]

Originally Posted by wa2ise

The folks over in the AudioKarma tube audio forum think highly of those Magnavox amps.

I noticed that. They do all kinds of upgrades and mods to them. It really is a good sounding amp so far.

[Dangler]

Originally Posted by marty59

Sams does list an AMP142AB, should be the same 311-9.

That will be handy if I decide to replace the ceramic cartridge with a magnetic one, but I don't really know if that's what I want to do. I noticed there are some magnetic cartridges that can be installed in the metal mounting bracket.

Is there any way to test the old ceramic cartridges besides hooking them up and running a finger across the needle?

I'll swing on over to the "Other Side" and see what they have to say.

Sure would be nice to listen to some old 78's on it.

Thank's again for all the help, Marty. I really appreciate it.

[Tubejunke]

I have a Magnavox stand alone floor model that looks like the same thing as you have. Somewhere I have a Sam's folder on my set as I was thinking of restoring it. I bought it as a working original back in the early 90s and after a few years of use, the flyback melted down. I found a replacement a couple of years ago and put it in. When I turned the set on and the HV came in there was a lot of arching going on. I assume that in replacing the flyback that I didn't actually fix the problem, so some caps are in order if I ever mess with the set again. I am trying to liquidate, so it depends on what goes and what stays. I like the Maggie as the chassis is clean enough to eat a meal off of and it is really service friendly as the chassis and CRT pull out in a piece of plywood as a unit. The only bad part is you have to remove the CRT to get your hands (and soldering iron) on any components.

If memory serves me correctly, the schematic that I have covers a load of model #s as do many. There would be no way to do a different folder for each variation of a production run. If you need a copy of the folder, I can send you one if I can find the one in question.