RCA Victor portable TV from the 1950s

[vortalexfan]

Hello everyone today I finally got the old TV I was talking about, it's a 1950s vintage RCA Victor 12" B & W portable TV that is in a metal and plastic cabinet with a handle on top and it's white colored.

Interesting thing is that it's got both VHF and UHF tuners on it and built in antennas.

Any information about the TV?

Pictures of the unit in question posted below.

[jr_tech]

Same set (17inch) in maroon:

http://www.tvhistory.tv/1959-RCA-170P063.jpg

jr

[michaelz]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Hello everyone today I finally got the old TV I was talking about, it's a 1950s vintage RCA Victor 12" B & W portable TV that is in a metal and plastic cabinet with a handle on top and it's white colored.

Interesting thing is that it's got both VHF and UHF tuners on it and built in antennas.

Any information about the TV?

Pictures of the unit in question posted below.

Cool.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

Same set (17inch) in maroon:

http://www.tvhistory.tv/1959-RCA-170P063.jpg

jr

Cool, thanks for the link. So, mine doesn't power up when you turn on the power switch, and it does have all of its original RCA branded Tubes in it.

Also was this considered a high end set?

[michaelz]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Cool, thanks for the link. So, mine doesn't power up when you turn on the power switch, and it does have all of its original RCA branded Tubes in it.

Also was this considered a high end set?

check filament of all the tubes.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by michaelz

check filament of all the tubes.

This isn't a series string set, it has a power transformer in it, and I don't see any fuses in it.

The tube placement chart and chassis number is missing from the set so I don't know if I can find a service manual for this TV or not.

[vortalexfan]

Here's some pictures of the inside of the TV.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Very nice! Looks like it'll clean up real well, should be a fun project. Sams index says 513-2.

[Eric H]

I have the same set, 1959 I think, great performer when restored.

It has a fusible resistor I think, that will kill it if it's open.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Eric H

I have the same set, 1959 I think, great performer when restored.

It has a fusible resistor I think, that will kill it if it's open.

OK so I think I found the fusible resistor yo were talking about, and it actually tested fine, it said it had continuity according to my continuity tester on my DMM.

But there was one part near it that I wasn't sure about what it was or what it was supposed to be and it appears to be damaged whatever the part is, and it looks to be part of the power supply.

see picture below.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Very nice! Looks like it'll clean up real well, should be a fun project. Sams index says 513-2.

Unfortunately I don't have Sam's Folders going that high, my Sam's Folders only go up to 469 and they aren't even a complete set of Sam's Folders going that high.

[Eric H]

That looks like a Thermistor, I seem to recall replacing one in my set. If it is you could just jumper it and power it up with a variac or dim bulb tester.

[michaelz]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Unfortunately I don't have Sam's Folders going that high, my Sam's Folders only go up to 469 and they aren't even a complete set of Sam's Folders going that high.

Just found it, 1.7MB in PDF format, can you provide email address, I send it to you ASAP. see if you can use it.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Eric H

That looks like a Thermistor, I seem to recall replacing one in my set. If it is you could just jumper it and power it up with a variac or dim bulb tester.

You mean the mystery part?
If so what was the purpose of that thermistor in that spot, and how do I jump it?

[Dubis7]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

You mean the mystery part?
If so what was the purpose of that thermistor in that spot, and how do I jump it?

My understanding is that thermistors are a sort of heat-responsive resistor. It starts out with high resistance to prevent current inrush on power up, and quickly drops to basically 0 as the set warms up. It's a protection thing, but you should be safe to eliminate it for now.

You could literally use alligator clips on either side or solder a wire to bypass it for the time being. I'd recommend replacing it if it's bad, though.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not nearly as experienced as some people here.