Another KCS47 Restore...No High Voltage/B+ Down 25V

[Chris K]

I think what I’ll do Kevin is post a list of the caps I’ve replaced and a bigger section of the schematic. I’d like to know for education purposes what’s causing this specifically and how I can diagnose issues like this in the future instead of doing a bulk recap in the power and deflection sections. I’d like to be able to say oh that’s what caused it and not well I changed everything and that took care of it.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Chris K

I think what I’ll do Kevin is post a list of the caps I’ve replaced and a bigger section of the schematic. I’d like to know for education purposes what’s causing this specifically and how I can diagnose issues like this in the future instead of doing a bulk recap in the power and deflection sections. I’d like to be able to say oh that’s what caused it and not well I changed everything and that took care of it.

You can do that but you'll be spending a lot more time getting things corrected. Right now you know the grid of the horizontal output tube is under biased, and it's pulling more plate current than intended. Besides paper caps it's possible the 560pf mica grid coupling cap is leaking positive voltage from the horz oscillator onto the horz output grid. You could try pulling the 6BG6 and see there's any residual voltage remaining on pin 5 of it's socket. Speculating we can assume the higher than normal plate current the 6BG6 is drawing could be pulling a B+ down few volts. That happens because these old sets don't have much if any voltage regulation. And the horz out is probably the biggest consumption of power.

[Chris K]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

You can do that but you'll be spending a lot more time getting things corrected. Right now you know the grid of the horizontal output tube is under biased, and it's pulling more plate current than intended. Besides paper caps it's possible the 560pf mica grid coupling cap is leaking positive voltage from the horz oscillator onto the horz output grid. You could try pulling the 6BG6 and see there's any residual voltage remaining on pin 5 of it's socket. Speculating we can assume the higher than normal plate current the 6BG6 is drawing could be pulling a B+ down few volts. That happens because these old sets don't have much if any voltage regulation. And the horz out is probably the biggest consumption of power.

Thanks as always Kevin. Do you mind expanding on this a bit for me? I thought bias voltage just turned a tube on and off. There's a ramped relationship between bias on the grid and the plate output? Is a biasing voltage always a negative voltage? Since -4.8V is a higher voltage than -33 volts DC does that account for the higher current on the plate? Confused as usual by the details. Can you explain to me how a 6BG6 works other than the filament voltage?

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Chris K

Thanks as always Kevin. Do you mind expanding on this a bit for me? I thought bias voltage just turned a tube on and off. There's a ramped relationship between bias on the grid and the plate output? Is a biasing voltage always a negative voltage? Since -4.8V is a higher voltage than -33 volts DC does that account for the higher current on the plate? Confused as usual by the details. Can you explain to me how a 6BG6 works other than the filament voltage?

You've pretty much got it. The negative bias on the grid(relative to cathode)sets the idle current, or operational point. So in some cases it can be turning on and off, like a switch, and other times it's partially on in neutral, so to speak. As far as I know normal receiving tubes use negative bias on the grid. If that's not clear I'll attempt to elaborate.

[Kevin Kuehn]

If you look in a technical text they use the term Quiescent Current. Different classes of amplifiers idle at different currents. Class A for example is turned on fairly hard at idle, vs the horizontal output is biased closer to cutoff, and acts more so like a switch.

[Chris K]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

You can do that but you'll be spending a lot more time getting things corrected. Right now you know the grid of the horizontal output tube is under biased, and it's pulling more plate current than intended. Besides paper caps it's possible the 560pf mica grid coupling cap is leaking positive voltage from the horz oscillator onto the horz output grid. You could try pulling the 6BG6 and see there's any residual voltage remaining on pin 5 of it's socket. Speculating we can assume the higher than normal plate current the 6BG6 is drawing could be pulling a B+ down few volts. That happens because these old sets don't have much if any voltage regulation. And the horz out is probably the biggest consumption of power.

Pulled the 6BG6 and there's no voltage on the grid (5) and the plate (8) is 410V DC

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Chris K

Pulled the 6BG6 and there's no voltage on the grid (5) and the plate (8) is 410V DC

At least now you know where some of your B+ is being lost to. I think once you've replaced the paper caps in the horizontal section your sawtooth will increase in amplitude and the 6BG6 will get it's proper grid leak bias.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Chris K

I’d like to know for education purposes what’s causing this specifically and how I can diagnose issues like this in the future instead of doing a bulk recap in the power and deflection sections. I’d like to be able to say oh that’s what caused it and not well I changed everything and that took care of it.

Chris,

I have an idea that might be less painful than the way you're trying to go about this. Identify the circuit location on each of the old caps as you remove them. After you have the TV working with new caps, you can experiment with putting the old ones back, one at a time. Then you can evaluate how they influence the operation. It will be easier to do once you have a working base line. You could even keep a spare chassis on the bench just for experimentation. The more you measure voltages and look at waveforms on your scope the easier it will become to wrap you head around how the circuits interact with leaky or out of tolerance components.

[Chris K]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Chris,

I have an idea that might be less painful than the way you're trying to go about this. Identify the circuit location on each of the old caps as you remove them. After you have the TV working with new caps, you can experiment with putting the old ones back, one at a time. Then you can evaluate how they influence the operation. It will be easier to do once you have a working base line. You could even keep a spare chassis on the bench just for experimentation. The more you measure voltages and look at waveforms on your scope the easier it will become to wrap you head around how the circuits interact with leaky or out of tolerance components.

Thank you for that suggestion! I actually finished the recap in the vertical and horizontal sections tonight but it was late, I got tired and I didn’t want to risk powering the tv up in that state. I did test some of the caps as I replaced them and one in particular had a very high ESR…somewhere around 75 ohms. In bed and I don’t have the schematic in front of me but it was a 102 paper cap rated at 1000V…C155 🤔 maybe. The rest of the wax caps tested fine accurate with
low ESR. The bumblebee caps were a different story and were all bad. Anyway we’ll see tomorrow if it works, is the same or smokes!