21FBP22 vs. 21CYP22 in RCA CTC-10C

[holmesuser01]

Sitting here this morning looking at my CTC-10C chassis while the morning crud is on TV. Something I've wondered for a long time:

When I got this set (no model stickers anywhere) the CYP22 was broken. I had a FBP22 which worked, and after a few years, replaced it with an all-new FBP tube. Should I consider trying to find a 21CYP22 to install next? Whats the advantage to using the original tube over this replacement? I still have the little resistor and clip for the 2nd anode connection in my junkbox. I dont throw anything away.

Your ideas and thoughts will help me go with a decision.

Bruce
Asheville, NC

PICS are coming. I just bought a digi-camera!

[holmesuser01]

I have 2-21" kines out in my garage. Sitting on blankets under the bench. Its a matter of getting in the door of the garage before I can say more about either of them. One is a spare for my set, I think an FBP. The other is, I think, an FJP, but I cant get out there looking before Saturday.

I think those CYP tubes look so cool with that red band. In ALL my TV repair years, I only got to mess with about 20 roundies that I can remember, and only one older than 1961. I'd love to look at the chassis layouts.

[John Folsom]

Another reason to consider puttiny a CYP22 in a set is the colorimetry of the phosphors used in the various round cRTs. As time went on, brighter phosphors were developed, but often at the expense of the quality of the color. The reds became redish-orange, the greens became yellow-green.

[holmesuser01]

The current tube in my set is a 21FBP22A. I may just stick with what I have. The color and tracking look nice. I have a feeling that I will see a major improvement when I get the caps replaced.

Last night, I went to a friends grandmothers house. They had a HUGE RCA home entertainment center in the living room with a newer looking TV in it. The stereo still works, and it sounded really good for its age. The round tube and the mask were removed years ago. I have now aquired a CTC-12 chassis. They had it in the basement.

[bgadow]

Great save on that chassis. Somebody (maybe you) is gonna need it someday. I would think it could be rigged up in place of a -15 or -16 if needed; just a matter of getting all the controls in the right place.

If I HAD to get a replacement CRT I would go for the orginal but otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.

[frenchy]

My ctc10-w had the CYP replaced with a FJP and it looks pretty darn good, personally I would not bother trying to put an original back in. Unless I already HAD a CYP that was in great shape, then I might put it in but then gotta go thru setting it up right all over again. Or if the FJP in it was weak and needed to be replaced, then I'd at least look for a CYP first before some other tube that would fit. As long as the FJP was a perfectly acceptable replacement 40 years ago, that's good enough for me. Just like I don't worry about caps here and there that were replaced years ago, gives it character like it's been thru many repairman's hands and kept on truckin' and managed to stay out of a landfill.

[oldtvman]

Originally Posted by John Folsom

Another reason to consider puttiny a CYP22 in a set is the colorimetry of the phosphors used in the various round cRTs. As time went on, brighter phosphors were developed, but often at the expense of the quality of the color. The reds became redish-orange, the greens became yellow-green.

part of the reason for the orangey look is the fact that they tried to drive the crt too hard, run up the brightness and the color would wash out. the cyp has excellent red but will turn orange-red when the brightness is turned up. I found that some of the re-builds especially by channel master were't nearly as good as the original tubes. I would use the fbp is I had the choice.

[holmesuser01]

My first FBP was a Channel Master tube. "ALL NEW" and it had several dots missing in the lower right hand side of the screen. It worked just fine, but I hated the dark spot on the screen. It came from a really old set that had the controls on the side. An RCA. Unfortunately, the chassis was gone, or IT would be the set that I have now.

[oldtvman]

I worked for an RCA distributor in the early 70's and we carried the channel master line and although they were cheaper than the colorama tubes, there was a huge quality difference. I guess most of the general public didn't have such a critical eye and the people on this forum

[holmesuser01]

I installed the Channel Master tubes in sets in the early 1970's, and only had one to act up. Had a shorted gun. I dont remember seeing any of them that had dots missing on the screen like mine did. Of course, I have no idea what my CM tube went thru before I got it, either.

I usually bought the all-new tubes from RCA for old customers. I went to a friends house the other day, and he had aquired his parents CTC-38 25" set that I replaced the tube in in 1973. Still has decent grey-scale after all these years. RCA tube, too.