Nice CTC-16 on eBay

[Telecolor 3007]

Thanks a lot, yagasoga. Well, the big problem is that I'm mad about the roundies.
My 1958 soviet black & white "Rekord" haves 70 degrees deflexion.
The first "Romanian" tv V.S. 43-611 (b & w) had 90 degrees deflexion.

[yagosaga]

Originally Posted by Telecolor 3007

Thanks a lot, yagasoga. Well, the big problem is that I'm mad about the roundies.

Yes, I think they are great, too! But please don't be mad! Keep a cool head and think how you can get closer to your goal with a clear and fresh mind!
If you really want to own a roundie, you can't get this with one step. Shipping of a tabletop model to Romania will cost $800 or more, add the toll and the taxes and you have to pay $1200 alone for shipping. Tabletops are rare, there are much more opportunities for getting a console. This is much larger and heavier which increases the costs for shipping enormously. Further costs are those for a 115 vac transformer and for a NTSC video converter.
The Porta-Color has a 70 degrees deflection crt. The costs for shipping are appr. $60 (surface) or $90 (airmail), declared as "old tv repair parts" it is toll free (is it in Romania too?) Pay $30 by yourself for the set for example and you can make your first experiences with an American tv set which are indispensably to operate a roundie in later times.

[Telecolor 3007]

Well, when I got the money I'll probably buy one of those Portacolors.

[frenchy]

I won this ctc-16, have to drive out this weekend to pick it up. Guess I will see how the cataracts look in person before I decide to mess with it, and try removing them myself, or having it done. Definitely would not want to risk shipping the tube.
Now will have another color roundster to go with my CTC-5. Do these CTC-16s generally need the electrolytics replaced if otherwise the picture looks good? And how about the regular caps, weren't they all manufactured with the sturdier type 'hard' capacitors by this time? thanks!...Frenchy

[jstout66]

Frenchy, Nice set!!! The cataracts don't look too bad from the picture he had posted. As for the caps.... they're the more modern type, so you don't really have to worry about that. Those 16's are a pretty durable chassis.

[Chad Hauris]

There shouldn't be a problem with paper caps as it uses Mylars for these applications....The electrolytics are likely good but I have had some shorted ones in a ctc-16. You may want to replace them for the best reliability even if it works...feel the cans to see if they are getting warm. Also you may want to check for burned wiring under the chassis due to heat.

[polaraman]

Frenchy,

Nice buy at a good price! Glad to see one of us got the set.

polaraman

[frenchy]

So uh...is the safety glass on these exactly that - glass? Is it sort of like a contact lens over the front, and glued in place around the perimeter and the rest of it has a gap between it and the tube face?
I saw thread where somebody used a heat gun that seemed to be a relatively easy way to remove the safety glass. But it didn't say what tool is supposed to be used to pull the glass away from the tube as it is heated with the gun. Or does it just lift up by itself.
I assume you can use common adhesive solvent to remove the old gunk? And how is it reattached? Oh well I'll worry about this junk after I get the set. Anybody know of place in So Calif area that might do safety glass re-do if I can't work up the guts to do it myself? No way do I want to have to risk shipping the tube just for this...Frenchy

[Chad Hauris]

If is a 21FJP22 it is bonded all the way over the front of the tube with PVA (polyvinyl acetate) resin. If it is a 21FBP22 it is like you say...the safety glass is only attached around the edges.
I have not done the heat gun trick myself but when you are done, you end up with a setup like a 21FBP22...no bonding between safety glass and tube faceplate. You just attatch the safety glass back on around the edge with tape.
I know Andy has experience with the heat gun, there is a very recent post on the topic on one of these threads.

[andy]

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[frenchy]

thanks for the info, I think it's the 'J' tube. Was just guessing that it was only adhered around the edge cuz only a certain perimeter of it looks fogged, but I guess that is just how far the mold or whatever has worked its way in from the outer edge. I'll poke around in here for more info...Frenchy

[bgadow]

The one I did was in no hurry to "pop". As the edges softened up I inserted popsicle sticks around the perimeter and kept working the heat gun around, inserting the sticks in further, until finally there was a "pop" and the glass had lifted. It wasn't quite as easy as I had hoped but I think most anyone here could handle it. I suspect some are easier than others. The only other one I did had been sitting outside and water had gotten in the adhesive, breaking it down. There was nothing holding it except the tape. I think putting a tough one face down in water might work but I don't know how long you would have to leave it before the glue broke down. Maybe a few days, but maybe a few months! Someday I may try it if the oppurtunity strikes. I used little pieces of popsicle stick as spacers around the edge, about 6 or 8 of them, crazy glued in place while I was setting the safety glass. On the first one I did you can just see the pieces if you know where to look so on the second I 'painted' the sticks black and you can't pick them out. Overall, I enjoyed doing them. The toughest part by far was getting the PVA softened up enough.

[domfjbrown]

...I'd be scared STIFF trying to do cateracts personally - all that high vacuum and no safety protection - what if you inadvertently knocked the face of the tube or something? Talk about BONGSKLAAAASH!!!!

Ouch!

[frenchy]

If I do decide to do tha cataract fix, I will definitely do my homework on what kind of safety shield to put on my face, thick clothing, precautions etc. If am not comfortable with it I won't do it. Sort of like changing out the mainsprings of an old Victrola (did that awhile back) - really have to get everything set up correctly with equipment, methods etc. or the spring could take a finger off or an eye out.

Frenchy

[drh4683]

frency,
Congrats on winning that 16. Its a sharp set. I took a few pictures of cateract work on a 68 magnavox console I had (that "old tv nut" owns now) You can get an idea what you are in for by looking at this old thread:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthr...=1968+magnavox


I wish I took more pictures durring the process to show exactly how it looks as you are heating the glass. I did this so those new to cateract work can see how exactly this works. I have used the heat gun method on all RCA tubes and it works great every time. Only thing I make special note too all, is to never use the heat gun method on a zenith CRT with "green halo" as air pockets do not form on this type of PVA and will crack the lens. Only use the "hot wire" techniqe on zenith tubes.