Another RCA roundie on ebay - Page 2 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

blue_lateral · #16 07-16-2005, 11:45 PM

Whew!... keep us posted.

John

frenchy · #17 07-17-2005, 01:57 PM

I posted this question to the radio newsgroup last night as the AK forum was down for maintenance...
The pic tube looks to be rebuilt, has newer 70's type "RCA" script on one sticker, label on it about it having a new gun, etc. Seems to test good, I'm getting 10 to 10.5 on a scale of 0-4.5 being fail, 4.5 to 14 being pass. On all three guns, all about 10 to 10.5. That's about what I got on all my color sets that work good, when I tested them for the heck of it.
But.... when I first pulled the back of the set off it had one of those dreaded color boosters on the pic tube. So when I saw that I thought -crap- and was expecting to get lousy test readings, especially testing it in it's old pre-booster state. This booster is just called a color booster cb-380 by antronic corporation. Somebody said maybe it was for a heater/cathode short but not sure these boosters do that unless they are marked as such, this one says nothing about it. Do they?
But even then, I get nothing on any of the HK or G1 short tests I did on any of the guns either. Cold or warm, tapping the neck, needle doesn't jump or move.
And if this booster doesn't do anything for shorts, that tells me that's not why they put the booster on there in the first place. But then why am I getting such good readings if the put it on there for low emission? Any suggestions or ideas? Just wish I had a better idea of whether or not I have a crap tube here first before I start working on the rest of the set. thanks!
Frenchy
Tester is an RCA WT-509A from late 60's.

jstout66 · #18 07-17-2005, 02:55 PM

Well.... I would suspect the tube is FINE! The booster could have been put on by a less than honest tech. We used to run into that on occasion. There was a competing repair shop that did shoddy work, and sometimes they would put a booster on just to shorten the life of the tube. Most times tho, they would install one and charge the customer for a rebuilt tube.

blue_lateral · #19 07-17-2005, 03:49 PM

Boosters usually raise the filament voltage from 6.3 to about 8 volts. If it is on there, someone somewhere must have thought it was too dim. Some boosters are a transformer, and this would isolate the cathode from the heater power supply, possibly fixing something. (Some boosters I think are autotransformers that wouldnt isolate anything.) If the tube doesnt have a short this is probably not why they did it. I have a couple of roundie boosters that have a switch on the top. If the switch is off, it only provides isolation and doesnt boost the voltage.

The tube is probably fine. There are plenty of other things that cause low brightness.

John

frenchy · #20 07-17-2005, 04:57 PM

Yeah some of the optimistic possibilities I was thinking of were along the same lines - it didn't really need it but the shop put one in for a few extra bucks...maybe the guy had low line voltage and this was to boost the filaments a bit (the pic tube tester booklet lists this as a possibility for a tube testing ok on the tester but not performing accordingly in the set)...do-it-yourself owner having a cap or resistor or tube going bad elsewhere and trying this as a cheap and quick fix....the old tube had the booster and when they slapped in the rebuilt one, they just left the booster on for the heck of it.
The fact that it's a rebuild of a newer tube gives me more hope too, if it was the same old original one in there AND a booster then I'd be more pessimistic about the outcome. Oh well time to pull the chassis out and start testing everything ELSE! It has no cataracts either so that's another plus : ) If the tube ends up being a winner you might see my booster on ebay ; )
thanks...Frenchy

frenchy · #21 07-17-2005, 09:34 PM

Can anybody help me figure out a few things on this ctc-10 vertical chassis. First vertical mount set I've wrestled with. I've gotten the two top bolts out, there's two holes underneath in the same area so I assume someone already forgot to put those back, and i unplugged everything from the tube, yoke etc. remote control chassis, and pulled all of the knobs. Chassis is now loose but doesn't seem to want to pull out. How is it connected to the lower control knob assembly, do I have to unscrew that from the cabinet or something? Not much room to see anything way down there. Am I missing a bolt or screw somewhere?
Also, there are two tubes just plain missing - the mixer tubes for the color/tint and on/off/volume on the remote chassis. Wondering if maybe there was a glitch in it that caused the remote functions to act screwy or kept spinning around without being told to so somebody just pulled the tubes to 'fix it' and disabled the remote control? That's all I can think of.
Some moron also snipped the speaker wire from the main cabinet area to the speaker section, probably some kid cuz that speaker section doesn't even have a back cover on it (did it ever?)
Thanks!....Frenchy

vintagecollect · #22 07-18-2005, 02:39 AM

The motorized tuning may have screw adjustment that stop the tuner mechanically. You will need to tweek these if tampered to work properly. My mom years ago got an old 60's motorla B/W set w/similiar type tuner. Had one of those "Clicker" metal remotes that clicked two metal pieces that make noise to actuate tuner in TV. I wish still had set. These really are a marvel of engineering. Let's see, COLOR and REMOTE, is there anything else someone could want out of television???? Early remote televisions are even rarer!! I almost bidded on this but was too far away. Good luck on restoration, pics please!! ENJOY

frenchy · #23 07-20-2005, 07:04 AM

Can anybody email me and let me know if they can mail or email me a copy of all the Sams paperwork for a ctc-10W chassis, with remote control? I can pay your expense of printing and mailing etc. Thanks!
Well the good news (I guess) is that it looks like it was a simple mechanical failure that took this set out of commission. One of the remote control drive gears for the tuner is snapped in half, the gear stayed there but would have just spun around the axle with no channel changing. Anybody got a spare one of these laying around? It's a nylon gear with a slotted axle hole and spring retainer, 34 teeth, one that goes on end of the shafts? I'll try epoxying it anyway and see what luck I have, would probably hold it. Tuner seems pretty stiff but not sure how smooth this one is supposed to be, will have to open her up and check the insides. If all else fails I can always run it on channel 3, right? ; )
Other than that, flyback looks good, there's a big black disk thing under the chassis that has a big hunk blown out of it (thermistor or something? dunno yet). Guess I'll test tubes till I can get the paperwork....thanks!....Frenchy

polaraman · #24 07-20-2005, 08:01 AM

frenchy,

I have all 41 pages of the SAMS. Give me a couple days and I will get it to you.

polaraman

bgadow · #25 07-20-2005, 10:49 AM

I have a can of gears; anything is possible! Will get counting those teeth....

vintagecollect · #26 07-20-2005, 07:20 PM

Just thinking about gear dilemma.......Try a machine shop or someone machining for hobby for possible gear replacement. Also check with local clock shops/private clock repairman. You may need to get metal version w/same teeth & size or custom make. The only real concern would be, is nylon gear meshing w/other nylon gears?? IF so, plastic only replacement would not prematurely wear out other nylon gears??? If only nylon gear in tuner assembly, a metal replacement should not wear out other metal gears as long as mounted as old one and fits properly. Try custom knob makers too , to mold possible replacement .Good Luck. Being creative of course helps. Butcher sets on these I'm sure are somewhat rare.

Steve D. · #27 07-20-2005, 07:52 PM

Frenchy,

I'd be happy to send to you a copy of the RCA service schematic for the CTC-10W remote control. Contains an exploded diagram of the unit. PM me your mailing address or you can e-mail me at my e-mail address on my web page listed below.

-Steve D.

bgadow · #28 07-20-2005, 10:29 PM

I checked the pile of gears; I think a photo of the old one would be needed, or at least some very detailed measurements. Most of what I have is either too small or too large.

Maybe Sams has a part number? With that you could contact Moyers, you've got a shot.

frenchy · #29 07-20-2005, 11:19 PM

It is a nylon gear that just transfers the motor to the tuner, all gears associated with it are also nylon. I don't think I can take a useful photo of it (close up enough). I am pretty sure I can repair it using epoxy on both sides and place a metal washer on both sides in conjuction with the epoxy to make it solid again. Plenty of clearance to build up both sides of it. Also maybe I should make sure I am going to be able to get this set up and running on channel 3 first before putting anybody to a lot of trouble looking for a gear : ) Plus there are about 4 of these gears in the whole remote mechanism so I might be able so swap this fixed one into a a position that doesn't stress it much like the tint control or something. I still have to figure out how this mech works too.
Will update progress on the set and the gear, thanks for the assistance so far...Frenchy

3Guncolor · #30 07-21-2005, 12:37 AM

Try J B Weld. I have saved a few pieces with it. Just don't use the remote to much and lube it good.