Philco Roundie on going repair

[blue_lateral]

I was afraid of that. I'm looking for one, too.

On a more positive note, I believe that fly is for an rca ctc-15. It's likely that Philco was a ctc15 clone. The ctc-15 (and clones) is one of the most common roundie chassis on the planet. Your chances of finding a used one in an unrestorable set are pretty good. Dont write off any brand. You just never know what you will find a ctc15 inside. It's probably more likely than finding something else!

John

[southernguy]

yes this seems to be an RCA clone, the philco part # (i think) is 32-10023-1 with a date code of 2746516-3

[Chad Hauris]

I transplanted a flyback from a ctc-15 like set which was rectangular (Hoffman) into a ctc-15 round clone (Silvertone) and it worked but the width was a little narrow. A swap from any of the ctc-15-like round sets would probably work even better, just like the original.
I think when RCA went to the ctc-16 where the rectifier tube inserts into the flyback, the clones kept with the design with the wire and cap for the 3A3.

[andy]

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[southernguy]

your right this is a CTC-15 clone, just got off the phone with charlie, i wonder what the flyback number would be for a CTC-15, i might have one, he was away from home.

[Steve D.]

Originally Posted by southernguy

your right this is a CTC-15 clone, just got off the phone with charlie, i wonder what the flyback number would be for a CTC-15, i might have one, he was away from home.

THE Philco 16M91 (SAMS set 835 folder 2) is similar to the RCA CTC-15 but not exactly a clone. The tube complement is different. Might be worth it to order up the SAMS and check for circuit/tube differences.

-Steve D.

[Charlie]

Is anyone familiar with a FLY-227? Or did one exist? Southernguy mentioned to me that someone in the past told him that was the correct replacement. My first thought was that he meant 277 not 227... but perhaps that thought was incorrect. Unfortunately, the Sams does not show the Thordarson part number (typical). If it really is supposed to be a fly227, then perhaps we're barking up the wrong tree on this Philco. Comments?

I have one 277 left, but it is going in my CM roundie soon. The flyback went out recently with a delightful burning smell. Oh joy I am so thrilled!

[polaraman]

The Philco number goes to a Thordarson Fly 277. Fly 227 is to an airline set. It does not match a fly 277.

polaraman

[Charlie]

Thanks for looking that up, Rich. As I suspected, that guy just gave him the wrong number by accident when he said 227.

[southernguy]

I got a replacement flyback today fresh out of a box. The part number for my Philco is 32-10023-1. On the box of the new flyback it says TRIAD D-304 FLYBACK FOR COLOR TELEVISION REPLACES PHILCO 32-10023-1, R.C.A./ARLINE 113382, AND OTHERS. Hmm, maybe its a D-304 instead of a 277 or 227. Or is a 277 the same as a D-304. I hope the replacement will work once I get done checking over the chassis. It is built much better than the origonal thats in the set now.

[polaraman]

My Triad book says that Thordarson FLY 277 and Triad D304 are the same. I would say that you have a winner.




polaraman

[rcaman]

HEY MAN WASENT YOU UP AWFULL LATE AFTER DRIVING 3 HOURS. glad the flyback was the right one for you. hope the philco works out great. steve

[southernguy]

Thanks Steve, you saved the day

[Telecolor 3007]

@domfjbrown: I saved some old computer monituors too.
I intend to use an 1989 19" "E-Machines" monitour with "Trinitron" CRT.

[southernguy]

Ok, here is my update, The flyback has been changed out with no big issues. Seemed pretty easy, lot of sodering though. There is two before and after pics down below. I am in the process of changing a few caps. There was 2 that were leaky and another had fell apart at my figertips as I looked to see what the value would be. The chassis has since then got a good bath, all clean now . Replaced a few wires under the chassis. While im waiting for the caps to come in I've been checking resistors. So that brings me to my new little problem, The sevice mode switch had come apart at some point in time so I pieced it back together and resodered it back into place to the board. Seems fine, cleaned the inside contacts, switches back and forth, but when I checked R6 on the board I get a reading of 6.8ohms when the switch is in normal mode, when switched to service mode it is a dead short across R6, is that correct, I think the resistor should be like an 8K but i can't really tell what the first band is. Sams does not list this as R6 so I've got myself all confused here .