Nice CTC-16 on eBay

[oldtvman]

when rca made the 16 chassis they received the pinnacle of quality for color television. the 16 chassis was a quality design thru and thru, the only drawback was at the time they seemed to go thru flybacks but the picture quality of the set was second to none

[old_tv_nut]

Hey there, drh4683 --

Very Interesting to see the cataract repair process on the set I bought from you. I'm still impressed that I got a super deal! I get a real kick watching DVD's of old shows on this one. - Now just have to get some time to replace the backing fabric on those balky tambour doors.

old_tv_nut

[captainmoody]

That Magnavox was one of my customers, I serviced it in the early eighties a couple times until the flyback finally burned up.They had it since new! Their whole front room had that french provincial style matching furniture as well as shag carpet! I had it for years before finally replacing the flyback and then trading it to Doug.

[frenchy]

Thanks for the cataract pics, will be looking them over!

Got the set home and - damn, no picture! Turned out was just a loose focus rectifier tube from the road trip, cleaned the pins and it's back up. Only issue I see is a little bit of a horizontal wriggling/jitter in the picture, but the set is original and was only aligned, I still have to check the tubes etc. Previous guy just did a basic alignment with no tube replacing etc. Slight sound 'buzz' and vertical linearity need to be adjusted too.

some more questions:
1. Would it be standard procedure to reroute the metal electrolytics with new ones sub-chassis on this particular chassis or era of set, if it's working pretty good now? Did it on all my older sets no matter what. Definitely will do the couple of paper ones in there but not sure about the 3 metal canned ones.
2. Is the safety glass laminated, i.e. if broken will it just shatter like regular glass, or stay in place like a windshield? Was it the exact same type of glass as used on the later tubes that just had the glass taped to the tube instead of cemented? Come to think of it - same question on my old CTC-5. Laminated?
3. The chassis has a lug that says "tuner mntg" or something like that. Is this for mounting the tuner while servicing? How should the tuner be oriented/mounted if I'm looking at the back of the chassis?
4. Any weak points on these sets like particular resistors or diodes?
5. Can the cataract removal be done safely with all the tube components being left on like the yoke and magnet assemblies? Any danger of those parts falling off if the neck is inverted for the cataract procedure? Guess I could put some tape on there to prevent it but...
Thanks!....Frenchy

[bgadow]

For the most part I have left the cans alone in 60s color sets. I did wire in new ones underneath in one of the Zeniths I have, and I'm not sure if this was to cure a problem or just as insurance. I can't remember. I think to just feel the cans after the set has been running awhile, and if they are getting too warm to swap them. You might have to get a little creative wiring those new ones in due to space.

The tuners, I think, always mounted face up. (knobs up) This was true with my CTC-15 & also the -31.

You could probably get away with leaving the stuff on the yoke but I would take it off. Doesn't take long, I just measure the length from the base and jot it down for the various components, so you get them back on right. A digital camera comes in handy here.

I know someone on here has broken a safety glass before. I think they are just plain glass.

[frenchy]

Ok I figured out how the tuner mounts facing up on the chassis with the two screws on the back, thanks. For the cataract I'm thinking of finding an old small car tire and putting that in top of a trash can or big box and setting the tube down into it to hold it. And a face shield of some kind. Am going thru if first cleaning the tube pins and checking the tubes first. Focus rectifier that was loose is testing as shorted for starters unless I'm not testing it right on my '71 Heathkit tester. But I noticed it looked a little weird when I reseated that tube it after I got the set home, it flickered really bright like the filament had shorted or something, but the picture did come back on and stayed on and had good picture so not sure what's up with that tube. And another tube is showing borderline short. Time to buy a few tubes....Frenchy

[andy]

---

[frenchy]

Reading other threads and hearing the safety glass is not laminated... does putting the safety glass back with tape basically just buy you a 'cushion' of it breaking first and the tube not breaking? Seems like if both broke they would both just blast you in the face anyway(?)
Maybe at least I could put a really thin piece of lexan or other tough plastic between the safety glass and the tube? Just wondering. I'm assuming the "B" tubes that just had the safety glass taped on originally WERE laminated? If not, again, what did it buy you if both it and the tube broke?? thanks for listening to more rambling....Frenchy

[blue_lateral]

Il'l bet the 21fb glass probably was laminated, Im not sure. SInce 21fb's came with no safety glass, it probably was up to the set manufacturer to come up with the safety glass. They probably weren't all the same.

I used to have a spare 21fb glass, and it had a big black rubber gasket around it. There would have been a space between the glass and the tube. I don't think there was tape. If something like this took an impact, it would be less likely to break imho because the gasket would absorb some shock. Also, the impact force would be distributed around the edge of the tube where it is stronger. I'll bet the second part of that is more important.

Even if the safety glass is just glass, It doesn't have the force of vacuum against it, and would likely be stronger than the screen.

On a 21fj, I think both layers would have been expected to break, and the broken glass would probably hang there on the pva goo like a broken car windshield.

I'll bet it would be a real pain to cram lexan in there because of the curve of the screen. You would also have to seal the edge. Maybe you could find some original 21fb glass & mounting hardware. Now im rambling...

P.S, thats a great looking set.

John

[frenchy]

Here's a pic of the set before disassembly, and a pic of the picture tube after I finished the cataract removal (it worked!) and I am now curing the silicone bead around it and taping it. The heat gun method starts out with you thinking yeah sure, this isn't doing anything, it isn't going to work. You have to soften up one spot, then take a thin piece of lexan or other plastic and sort of dig out a couple of areas along the edge, so you have a place to start wedging the sticks. I used piece of bakelite as they are thicker and stiffer. Then you can see a wiggly ridge line in the goop that will slowly traverse across to the other side of the tube from where you are leveraging with the sticks. Takes awhile. Then it just sort of lets go and comes loose with more prying as the ridge line goes about 2/3 of way up. Will add a pic of the working set as soon as I get the parts back in the house for assembly...Frenchy

[frenchy]

It's back together except for remounting the tuner and knobs, I still have to reconverge and refocus the sucker since the magnets got bumped a little moving the tube around, but the convergence was not optimal to begin with. Beam me up Scotty!

Ah yes, the second pilot with Sally Kellerman....she, herself, is 3 of the biggest female stars out there!

Anthony

[Sandy G]

Leonard Nimoy was/is kinda odd-looking, ain't he? Not creepy or anything like that...just "different". Even without the "Spock" makeup. Nice set there, Frenchy-always great to see a roundie brought back to life !!-Sandy G.

[domfjbrown]

Originally Posted by frenchy

It's back together except for remounting the tuner and knobs, I still have to reconverge and refocus the sucker since the magnets got bumped a little moving the tube around, but the convergence was not optimal to begin with. Beam me up Scotty!

Mmmm - Pioneer VP1000 LD player - nice! What's that beast like in operation? Is it noisy (mechanically)? Also, what'll you do when the gas tube laser burns out?

I'm getting paranoid about my 1992 Pioneer 1750's laser diode popping, but YOUR beast is easily, what, 25 years old???

BTW - I know well-made equipment from the 70s-80s can last - I have a mint 1972 Akai CR81D 8track cartridge recorder in my AV rig! Must be rarer than rocking horse poo here in the UK!

[frenchy]

[QUOTE=domfjbrown]Mmmm - Pioneer VP1000 LD player - nice! What's that beast like in operation? Is it noisy (mechanically)? Also, what'll you do when the gas tube laser burns out?>>>

Buy another player I guess!

It works great, doesn't really make any noise to speak of. Found at a Salvation Army for 25 bucks and haven't touched anything in it. Fun to watch the disc spin up to speed thru that window in the lid. I only have a handful of Star Trek episodes and the old NBC production of Peter Pan to play on it. Thing is freaking heavy too....Frenchy